Chamber Rearming Oil

S

slowfire

CGN Regular
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Location
Middle AB
Question for the experienced folks
I have been using regular (plain ) cutting oil to chamber barrels both chrome molly and stainless. Using Rapid Tap at the moment.
I have a gallon of Ridged stuff for drilling.
I think Manson sells some kind of magic juice , not sure about the legalistic's of bringing one can to the great white.
Is there something better I should be using? Available here ideally.
Thanks Smith's.
 
I've been using Buttercutt, and am satisfied with it. I used to have a supply of an old heavy smelly sulpurized cutting fluid that was very good, but is probably long gone.
 
375 RUM said:
croma-tap-2 ;if you can find it; was made in canada; bad stuff but works
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my favorite cutting oil, you can also fortify other oils for cutting with chromatap 1&2. Unfortunately discontinued and from what I can see on their website it seems the remainder of their product line is intended for pumped coolant systems.

I've used many cimcool products so cimtap paste or cimtapHD liquid would be my next best guess, paste is nice for controlling chips.
 
Cutting lubricants are something different to each individual.

I use five different types and like them all. There is something good to be said about all of them.

I use Rigid Cut from yellow plastic bottles, to Rigid Cut, which is mixed with water and pumped over the cutting edges, Rapid Tap, Rigid Dark, Jokhisch, and a new one, Tip Hard Cut-it.

I tried out Cut-it over the weekend, chambering a barrel for the venerable 218 Bee. It's a paste and very good, as it has a high flow heat ratio, but you need to be very careful to pull back the reamer to clean the chips more often because of it. Other than that, very nice and very little mess.

Cutting lubes are like bedding release agents, everyone has their own preference. Once in a while, you try something new, mostly because your favorite isn't available. Usually, with a bit of practice it works just as well.

Speaking of which, I came across a new one to me this spring called "Orca Shimmer" It works every bit as well as "Johnson's Paste Wax" which is no longer available in Canada, maybe even better. It flows evenly, without any chance of build up, it's a light blue color, releases very easily, and is easy to remove from the surfaces it's been applied to. I tried it on a scrap barrel and stock to see what would happen if I applied it to the wood, instead of masking tape. It worked very well. Not one bit of bedding material stuck to any of the areas it was applied to. Bonus.

The big secret behind reaming, is cutting speed/feed, adequate lube and lots of patience.
 
asa said:
Vipers venom, but I don’t think there is much difference between it and rigid dark
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Gods honest truth, after having the proprietor spamming a great number of the Forums I was participating in, back when he was starting out and really did not understand marketing (like, using a frikken Cobra as the logo on "Viper" juice...) He can drown hisself in it, for all I care.

Lots of decent cutting oils out there ranging from animal fat lard, to heavy sulphurized, or Rigid Dark oil. Run what you can get, I would suggest that the differences between them have at least as much to do with how you hold your lips when cutting, as anything else. But, more accurately, the fellas that finally find their groove, through experience, some anyway, are liable to brainlock themselves on what they were using when they finally had enough experience to start feeling the differences between doing the job well, and not understand that it was that heir hands and minds started to understand what they were about on a given machine tool or process.

Last workplace, in a CF, Air Force machine shop, we had maybe five or six different cutting lubes, ranging from water soluble that was used in the machine tools, to waxy sticks that were supposed to be the answer for cutting effed up alloys with any kind of saw. In the end, you grabbed what was closest to your bench and it just worked. Drag a Tap or Reamer through the wax stick, it seemed to work better than dry. Dunk some water soluble out of the coolant tank on the lathe, and brush it on, same net effect.
 
Just reamed a 308 die, in C1045 carbon steel, and used 5-30 synthetic motor oil (Pennzoil), just to see. Worked fine. No pick-up by the reamer, smooth with no chatter. I reamed .100" at a time and pushed it a little, 150 RPM. Next up will be some synthetic gear oil, cut with ATF4 to thin it out a little. BL
 
Bill Leeper said:
Just reamed a 308 die, in C1045 carbon steel, and used 5-30 synthetic motor oil (Pennzoil), just to see. Worked fine. No pick-up by the reamer, smooth with no chatter. I reamed .100" at a time and pushed it a little, 150 RPM. Next up will be some synthetic gear oil, cut with ATF4 to thin it out a little. BL
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Interesting. Yet for some reason, the old standard was a high sulfur thread cutting oil. Me, I will err on the side of caution and continue to use a product designed for the purpose. Benefits? Maybe less problems, maybe less wear on the cutting tool?

Edit: A quick search touts the benefits of high sulfur cutting oil as less friction, less heat generated, lower tool wear. They stress this is especially important on stainless or high carbon steels.
 
Conventional gear oil is highly sulfurized. Disgusting to smell but likely a great cutting oil. I don't believe Nu-Clear, from Rigid, contains much sulfur, but I could be mistaken. Rigid Dark has a lot. Any extreme pressure lube should be very good. BL
 
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