chamfer revolver cylinders

I did a google on "revolver cylinder chamfering" and got back a whole bunch of good information in the first dozen listings.

Given that it's just a slight easing of the edge I'd have no trouble doing it with a hand held 90 degree metal cutting countersink tool. The nature of such a cut is basically self regulating for depth so any decent attempt to keep the cutter centered and cutting evenly will result in a very acceptable chamfer that is even enough.

The chamfer sounds like it should not be wider than about .010 to perhaps .015. Some report making the face of the chamfer up to .030 but I'd say that this is excessive and could well lead to wedging away the rims of the cases if the ejector start is chamfered as well. And that could result in unloading difficulties due to the chamfer wedging the cases off to the side.

The chief benefit seems to be in aiding with reloading while using speed loaders. I'd suggest that the first line of attack on this front is to use ball nose ammo with no ledge since any ledge or SWC bullets are still going to try to hang up even if the openings are chamfered.
 
a hand held 90 degree cutter without a chamber diameter pilot is going to chatter. Brownells sells a nice hand held cutter with replaceable brass pilots for different calibers, works great
 
a hand held 90 degree cutter without a chamber diameter pilot is going to chatter. Brownells sells a nice hand held cutter with replaceable brass pilots for different calibers, works great

Not always. In fact my favourite deburring tool at the drill press is a 3 flute 90 degree countersink glued into a wooden file handle. I don't think it's ever chattered on me in many years of use. And if we use a "chatter free" cutter that has non symetrical angles between the cutter edges then we can enjoy a zero risk of chatter.
 
If you do it regularly, and have lots of practice you can do a good job free hand. And what you describe will work perfectly well. That being said, if your someone who hasn't done a lot of fine hand work/metal work, the odds of doing all 6 chambers nice and even and concentric is low.

Sounds like your a tool and die guy too, :D, or a machinest.
 
Not for a living. But machining and hand working metal has been a life long hobby and I can hold my own when it comes to doing accurate work with hand tools. So I guess I qualify on the skills side of things.

And in light of this I'd have to agree that for someone new to these things doing all 6 neatly and evenly would be more good luck than good planning. I sometimes forget that there's no lack of people that qualify as butchers when it comes to shaping metal, wood or any other sort of material. But at that point such a person could just as easily mess things up using the proper tool from Brownells by going too far with it.
 
LOL that was my worry when i did my 625. (best thing i ever did). Then my best friend bought a performance center 627 to inspire gun envy in me (it worked). The chamfers they put on the 8 shot cylinder are like frickin funnels, you can throw the bullets at the cylinder from the other side of the room and they still fall in. I'm thinking i can take another 10-20 thou out of the 625.........
 
LOL that was my worry when i did my 625. (best thing i ever did). Then my best friend bought a performance center 627 to inspire gun envy in me (it worked). The chamfers they put on the 8 shot cylinder are like frickin funnels, you can throw the bullets at the cylinder from the other side of the room and they still fall in. I'm thinking i can take another 10-20 thou out of the 625.........
Really? I'd like to see a close up photo of that. Did they only chamfer the cylinder and not the extractor?
 
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