Cheap projectiles performing well.?.?.?.?

ARH77

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So I've started this year reloading and I decided to try out some cheap projectiles. The main reason was that my boyfriend comes out shooting with me from time to time, he always wants to shoot my TRG22 but all he does is shoot the big gong at 200m or 300yards. He just likes to hear the gong make the sounds (Silly boys). I'm more OCD and like to shoot paper and concentrate on getting nice groups.

I'm was tired of him feeding my nice SMK rounds into the gong and bought some cheap Hornady FMJ-BT 150 gr projectiles (Budget Shooter Supply had them for cheap). I loaded them in brass that was well prepared, the brass was prep'ed for my SMK but used them with the Hornady's because that's what I had laying around.

I was at the range this past weekend and decided to test out these new projectiles and see how they were. I fired six 5 shot groups at 200m, the best group was .46 moa and the worst group was .81 moa. It was cold out (I was cold), the wind had heavy gusts, and to be honest I wasn't really trying that hard on the first few groups. Plus this was with just a standard COAL and powder load of 44.5 of IMR 4064 and F210, I've done no load development for this projectile I just figured it'd be a safe load to start with and it wouldn't eat up to much of my powder supply.

At 100m it was similar results with lots of 0.6 to 0.8 moa and a few sub 1/2 moa groups (again with no load development and not great conditions). To my shock I had two 5 shot groups that had amazing vertical MOA of 0.112 and 0.125, the gusting wind pushed them side ways to end up with a overall MOA of 0.631 and 0.460.

Before I fired a round I was expecting the groupings to be in the 1-1.5 MOA range, more then good enough for chuckles to hit the gong. But I was pleasantly surprised with how well they grouped.

I haven't played around with projectiles much, and the only reason I tried these was because I wanted cheap gong ammo for the boyfriend/friends to shoot.

Time will tell if this just happened to be a random chain of events and weather (or magical pixie dust in the air) that happened make this round perform well on that day.

Has anyone else had experience with cheaper projectiles performing well? Are these results usual for a projectile like this?

At 100m-200m what should I expect for grouping differences between premium projectiles vs cheap projectiles? (I suspect that at longer distance 500m+ cheap projectiles groups will fall apart)

Is the magic in the rifle/barrel and it'll shoot anything well?

Is the magic of reloading a good round in the brass preparation and load consistency, and less so in the projectile itself?

With some load development and a better day I'm thinking the grouping should get smaller and more consistant. So that leads me to question if I am just wasting money shooting SMK at anything closer then 200 meters? ~maybe 300 yards? (my range goes to 300 yards, but I haven't tried grouping these at that distance yet)

Hugs,
April
 
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Buy a lottery ticket right now and share the winnings with me.

Sometimes you just get lucky. Load more and shoot them. Thats the only way to confirm.

I spent a couple years trying different bullets, powders, charges, lengths for one rifle and had found some amazing loads. I had only fired a few boxes of factory through this rifle, mainly just stuff I bought for other people to plink with (handloads are just too time consuming to let people waste)
Then one day I fired a few left over "not telling" cheap factory junk, they shot SO well that I was a little agitated at all the time and money I've wasted. I mean they weren't better than my best rescipies but close enough that all that work for a fraction of an moa hardly seemed worth it.
I now shoot them regularly, my Bergers hardly ever come out. For what I'm doing they just aren't needed and I can save them for whatever purpose does require that fractional advantage.
 
Haha. I hope I don't stumble on a similar situation.

( not that amax's get much cheaper but Lapua and match primers do!)

One thing that might come into play is ballistics. Not informed of that bullet but it may be less than stellar long range. If 100y stuff is your thing it might be the golden ticket!
 
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A friend of mine wanted to fire form some brass. He pulled a shyte load of IVI bullets to use for fire forming. Since he also had a bunch of powder from the IVI so he used it too. Dumped all the powder and re-threw it and used the FMJ IVI bullets in new cases. Accuracy was much better than plain old IVI, (around 1.25-1.5 MOA at 300 yards) whereas plain old IVI was a little over 2 MOA. No as good as his handloads but it would hold the bull at 300 yards.
 
I've always found hornady projectiles in the cup-n-core config to be very accurate for the $$. For instance 100 pcs of 100gr 6mm are $24. They group at an inch in my rem700 243. This is a rifle that I have used on game for over 20years, shot my first deer and a plethora of other game and various other targets of opertunity with it.....

In the 30 cal range I haven't found a "bad" inter bond bullet..... Same in .338.

IMHO you can't beat a good 'ol inter bond from hornady!
 
Cheapo 52 grain Speer hollow-points shoot like a lazer beam from my Savage VLP in .223 Rem
Shoot just as well from my Remington VTR using the same load as well.

I really like the fact that I can buy a "varmint pack" of 1000 bullets at a time for a reasonable price
 
There are plenty of bullets that are well manf but economically priced. Bullets for varmint shooting in 22cal typicaly are the best value as the consumption rate is massive... and the expectations high.

Hrn 30cal 150gr FMJBT are certainly one of the best deals in a 30cal plinking bullet. I would assume they are made to similar standards to their hunting bullet which is why they have shot so well for you. Most FMJ's are made to milspec standards which is pretty darn loose by our standards so accuracy there is irratic and really more luck then design.

If the bullets are working for you, shoot them and enjoy them.

The further you go, the more obvious the value of higher priced match bullets and proper load techs become. When trying to hit a 5" at 1000yds, everything matters. 5" at 200yds - a lot of stuff can be ignored.

Enjoy and nice to hear a gal taking out a guy shooting for a change....

Jerry
PS FYI, with proper match F Open class rifles, 100 and 200yd groups can hover in the 1's and 2's. I had the pleasure of scoring an Open shooting in Raton, NM that put 8 rds into a 3"+ group at 1000yds in the wind. We gave up moving the spotter in that run. Ended up shooting 17rds into a group 7 to 8" across. Most competitive F TR rifles are shooting in the 2's and 3's at 300m and able to hit that 5" circle out to 1000yds.
 
Some of the best groups I have shot out of a few different rifles came from Hornady 55 FMJ BT's...

I am currently experimenting with different weight Vmax's and they are pretty cheap as well.
 
Those results are outstanding and far from typical. Bullets vary from lot to lot and rifles have preferences. See if you can buy more of the same lot #. Henry will know if what he has is all from the same lot.

In general, the flat base Hornady soft point will out shoot the FMJ.
 
Don't discount the rifle. I have yet to see any rifle, compete with a TRG, when it comes to shooting different types styles brands lengths etc of projectiles as consistently as the TRG. Not sure what magic SAKO uses on the barrels, but one is for certain, they are amazing. The Tikka Tac uses 'the same' barrel, but will not shoot many different types of ammo nearly as consistently as the TRG.

BTW its not uncommon to experience what you have experienced, especially with the TRG
 
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