Cheating (aka making an M1903 stock from a type 11 03A3 stock)

Claven2

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Well I'm building an as-new representative Remington 1943 refurb of an inter-war Springfield M1903, but finding as-new 1903 wood is, well, impossible these days - so we work with the 03A3 post-war replacement stocks that are readily available.

Of course, those stocks work well just as they are, but to make them look the part better, you can cheat a little and plug the 03A3 receiver ring inletting.

Of course, we also use all milled M1903 parts vs the later stamped parts as RA would have re-used the milled bits if they were serviceable.

For those who don't know, Remington overhauled a LOT of M1903's from Government inventory apart from making new rifles.

It's best to inlet the stock to best fit your receiver BEFORE you do these plugs.

On SOME 1903A3 stocks, the rear trigger guard inletting is too deep for best accuracy/bedding practises. This because the stamped bottom metal is less-sensitive to bedding and basically beds on the action pillar, while milled bottom metal gives better results if properly bedded. On many stocks, this step is not necessary - it depends how good the factory inletting was.

Here we epoxy in a black walnut shim, then using inletting black we inlet the trigger guard down until the rear tendon is flush to the stock wrist.

DSCN3902.jpg


Next we glue black walnut plugs into the ring inletting - once they dry they will be dressed to the stock's contour and inletting.

Bear in mind when inletting the wood, you are aiming for about 5lbs of upward stock pressure on the barrel tip, full contact on the base of the receiver, at the recoil lug, along the rear tang rounds and on the bottom of the rear tang where it contacts the pillar. You want a couple thou clearance between the barrel and the front barrel band as well ;)

DSCN3897.jpg
 
That is a clever bit of work. As you say, the military simply used any available replacement stocks which were inletted for both the 03-A3 barrel ring and the M1903 fixed rear sight base/collar.

The last Remington M1903s were fitted with the stamped one piece trigger guard which was standard for the 03A3. These would be the early, so-called "small bow" guards as opposed to the later guards which had the trigger finger bow enlarged. Late Rem M1903s also sport a number of other stamped parts incl the mag follower, lower band and sling swivel, lower band spring, buttplate, lower sling swivel, and stacking swivel. Exact dates for use of these stamped parts are a bit murky as they were phased in towards the end of Rem M1903 production. The general rule is the later the s/n, the more stamped parts. Any milled M1903 parts would be correct for a re-work. Remington marked most parts with an "R", so folks should look for these for a more correct rendition of a Remington M1903.

Using a milled trigger guard is a better solution for a shooter as the stamped guards tend to bite into the stock on either side of the front guard screw while the milled guards are more stable in this area. Remington later rectified this problem by welding a metal pad in this area which provided more bearing surface against the wood. My 03A4 sniper rifle has this type of guard.

I'd add a couple of cautions on stock inletting;

-make sure there is some clearance between the end of the upper action tang and the corresponding recess in the stock, otherwise the tang will make hard contact here and act as a recoil lug which will split the stock in this area. You see this on quite a few 03 stocks. If there is hard contact in this area one can insert a metal shim against the rear face of the stock cutout for the recoil lug. This will move the action fwd slightly and bring the rear tang out of contact with the wood.

- folks should make sure to have the metal sleeve, which surrounds the rear guard screw, in place in order to stabilize the rear of the action.
 
And Ta-da! The receiver ring inlet vanishes...

DSCN3903.jpg


Note that it's glued in using 2-part epoxy mixed heavily with black walnut sanding dust so that the glue joint takes linseed oil, stain, or whatever - behaves similarly to real wood.
 
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