checkering tools
- Thread starter offroad
- Start date
The best advice you will get is to make up a pattern and practice. Use wood that is hard so that it doesn't burr.
Also, learn how to sharpen your cutters.
Usually, the best checkering results happen after the final finish is applied to the stock. This stops burring and the checkering doesn't get filled with finish material. A well thinned finish material can be applied to the checkered area to seal the wood when you're finished.
As for screw drivers, the cheap gunsmith sets are a good starting point. Usually, I look at yard sales to acquire the cheap but good quality, non changeable head style screwdrivers and grind them to fit the different size screw heads often encountered.
The problem with the socalled gunsmithing sets is the the blades are ground for the normal commercial screw heads found in hardware stores.
Usually, the screws found on firearms have very thin, wide slots and most kits just don't supply the proper sizes. Not only that, but in many kits the bits are to hard and either break or gaul the slots. Very unprofessional and will devalue a rifle. To soft is no good either.
That's why I like single bit blade drivers that are dedicated to one size. They are usually the proper hardness for best results and the heads aren't loose in their holder.
It's way to easy for a multi purpose head to slip out, be to narrow etc.
Also, learn how to sharpen your cutters.
Usually, the best checkering results happen after the final finish is applied to the stock. This stops burring and the checkering doesn't get filled with finish material. A well thinned finish material can be applied to the checkered area to seal the wood when you're finished.
As for screw drivers, the cheap gunsmith sets are a good starting point. Usually, I look at yard sales to acquire the cheap but good quality, non changeable head style screwdrivers and grind them to fit the different size screw heads often encountered.
The problem with the socalled gunsmithing sets is the the blades are ground for the normal commercial screw heads found in hardware stores.
Usually, the screws found on firearms have very thin, wide slots and most kits just don't supply the proper sizes. Not only that, but in many kits the bits are to hard and either break or gaul the slots. Very unprofessional and will devalue a rifle. To soft is no good either.
That's why I like single bit blade drivers that are dedicated to one size. They are usually the proper hardness for best results and the heads aren't loose in their holder.
It's way to easy for a multi purpose head to slip out, be to narrow etc.
