Chinese .308 and the Ruger GSR

StrelokM38

StrelokM38

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Hey there. Not really sure what catagory Scout rifles fall into here, but here we go.

I've owned a GSR for a number of years now and got my hands on a rather generous helping of Chinese .308 (headstamp 70/70)

I'm finding the bolt gets very, very sticky and difficult to turn a few rounds in with this stuff. Not sure if its overpressure or the steel case giving the chamber some grief. Just need to know if I should continue using this ammunition or not, and whether folks have had similar experiences with this stuff.

Thanks!
 
Is it lacquered steel or copper wash?

I don't recommend lacquered steel cases in bolt guns. In auto loading rifles the case is ejected before the lacquer has a chance to melt/get soft. In a bolt action rifle they tend to gum up the chamber after awhile.
 
it's coppery colored all over, so i'm assuming its a copper wash.

It also kicks like a mule compared to commercial loads i've fired through it in the past, so thats why i've been thinking about overpressure since there isn't exactly solid data on chinese .308, or any that I could find anyway.
 
OP exact same issue with mine. I called Ruger and they said it should shoot fine but I stopped and run straight factory out of the box ammo no issues. Tight chamber maybe on a few runs. For whatever reason she doesn't like chinese. Racist I guess.
 
steamy teabag said:
OP exact same issue with mine. I called Ruger and they said it should shoot fine but I stopped and run straight factory out of the box ammo no issues. Tight chamber maybe on a few runs. For whatever reason she doesn't like chinese. Racist I guess.
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I wonder about the tight chamber. My GSR has been a total pain ever since I got it. Has a very sticky bolt close and open on some rounds, both factory and handloads, fired and unfired(ie. I can chamber a round with difficulty, not shoot it, then have to really work the bolt hard to cam it open). Some,less than half, rounds will chamber, shoot, and eject with no noticeable extra force required on the bolt. I have basically just parked it because I imagine a gunsmith is going to charge near the value of the rifle to look at.
 
Yeah, mine has a rather stiff bolt to begin with, even when opening uncocked and on an empty chamber. Some folks are saying to polish up the camming surfaces of the bolt and receiver and a few other trick. Just comes down to that coating they used being very prone to friction. Love my GSR, but there are some things I wish were just slick out of the box.

I'm probably going to hold off from using that .308 any longer, not until something shows up in my safe that will eat it up a bit more willingly.
 
I'm not a snake-oil salesman but real Moly grease on the cocking ramp and sliding surfaces will work miracles. I'm talking special grease fortified with 40-70% Molybdenum,not canadian tire or autozone stuff. SS rifles are very prone to galling and cold-welding,some worse than others. You apply the below special grease liberally to the bolt surfaces and cocking ramp and work the bolt about 50 or so cycles and then lightly wipe off the excess. The Moly imbeds itself into the pores of the metal and you are holding a whole new rifle,so smooth you won't believe it and no binding or grittiness.

Molyslip AS40 is a canadian made product and the carrier grease that holds the moly in suspension is workable in extreme temps.
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The best of the best is Dow Corning Molykote, tougher to find but it is amazing stuff.
 
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