Chisels for stockmaking?

to fix , cut checkering, best is proper checking files, a single cut will work.
I just sold a wack of them at the Saskatoon gun show, as I stopped all that stuff.
Trade Ex did have a single one in stock at one time, not sure if he still does, you have to make a wood handle for it, or put a plastic file handle on.
Put a ad in the EE for a checkering file, some one may have a spare.
Old tooth brush works good for cleaning the sawdust out, and when refinishing to clean up extra oils/ finish .

There are many different cutters made for different line per inch, but for recutting just need a single line cutter , it will work on any size.
 
marshall said:
to fix , cut checkering, best is proper checking files, a single cut will work.
I just sold a wack of them at the Saskatoon gun show, as I stopped all that stuff.
Trade Ex did have a single one in stock at one time, not sure if he still does, you have to make a wood handle for it, or put a plastic file handle on.
Put a ad in the EE for a checkering file, some one may have a spare.
Old tooth brush works good for cleaning the sawdust out, and when refinishing to clean up extra oils/ finish .

There are many different cutters made for different line per inch, but for recutting just need a single line cutter , it will work on any size.
Click to expand...

I have checkering tools. I'm wondering what would be a good chisels for sharpening up the shadowline? on the cheekpiece? The stock I'm refinishing is off a beretta olympia. Stripped the finish off and restained it. Looking really close, the stock needs a tiny bit of clean up then it's going to get a clear coat over.
 
Look at the Lee Valley Tool Website at their selection of wood carving chisels and gouges. Also check out their various wood scrapers.

You should be able to find something that suits.

At one time Busy Bee Tools sold a set of carving chisels, ostensibly as a Gunsmithing Chisel set, complete with a Smith and Wesson Logo on the box that S&W probably knew nothing about. They were cheap junk, but I figured for the price, affordable enough as a set of blanks for reworking into chisels as required, as they were most like to be plain carbon steel, and easily heat treated as required with very basic tech. Certainly not great tools, but usable in their limited way, and also not $70+ each chisel!
 
Iv used more small files and sand paper for finishing up cheek piece shadow lines. Iv used chisels for the roughing.
 
I get chisels and gouges from Lee Valley, but I think you need a rasp, not a chisel. Expensive, but one of my most used tools is a half-round vulcanite file from Brownell's. That plus a set of good quality needle files for fine detail work.
 
A 4-in-1 rasp will be the best thing for you, about 15$. You can wrap paper around wooden dowels if you want a specific radius.

If you want to actually do woodwork, get the Narex files from LeeV. Please don't think stock making is anything special, cutting wood is the same for guns and boats and bird houses.
 
MilitaryCollectorMark said:
Just wondering what kinds of chisels are used for stockmaking?

Have a stock and want to sharpen the outline of the cheeckpiece since it's a bit ragged on the edges.
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You will probably have better success with files and scrapers. In fact you will probably be able to sharpen it up a fair bit by sanding down the cheek piece a little rather than (as I am assuming you are contemplating) trying to file the contour/bottom edge of the cheek itself.
 
Just re-read your question.....

MilitaryCollectorMark said:
Just wondering what kinds of chisels are used for stockmaking?
Click to expand...

For overall basic shaping; mostly rasps, spokeshave or drawknife, a bandsaw is handy too ;) Logier or Ariou hand stitched rasps are the best.

Barrel channels can be started with drills, routers, even contractor saws. Then fine tuned with gouges, chisels and scrapers. Very rarely will you need a gouge with a sweep grater than 7 or less than 4. 8mm-18mm widths on both chisels and gouges are used most anything over 25mm sits in my rack unused.

Fine tuning and final shaping would be rasps, files and scrapers again ... chisels and gouges being used to inlet a part or fine tune a line.

So what kinds? All kinds - My most used chisels are 8mm & 12mm straight fishtails, 18mm, 10mm & 5mm straight chisels #3, #4, #5, #6 & #7 straight palm gouges all 10mm - all Two Cherries or Pfiel - 2Cherries edge stays sharp longer, Pfiel has a better selection of geometry & palm handles are more comfy


Have a stock and want to sharpen the outline of the cheeckpiece since it's a bit ragged on the edges.
Click to expand...

But specifically for what you are trying to do... I probably would not use a chisel. ~ see my last answer.
 
sean69 said:
Just re-read your question.....



For overall basic shaping; mostly rasps, spokeshave or drawknife, a bandsaw is handy too ;) Logier or Ariou hand stitched rasps are the best.

Barrel channels can be started with drills, routers, even contractor saws. Then fine tuned with gouges, chisels and scrapers. Very rarely will you need a gouge with a sweep grater than 7 or less than 4. 8mm-18mm widths on both chisels and gouges are used most anything over 25mm sits in my rack unused.

Fine tuning and final shaping would be rasps, files and scrapers again ... chisels and gouges being used to inlet a part or fine tune a line.

So what kinds? All kinds - My most used chisels are 8mm & 12mm straight fishtails, 18mm, 10mm & 5mm straight chisels #3, #4, #5, #6 & #7 straight palm gouges all 10mm - all Two Cherries or Pfiel - 2Cherries edge stays sharp longer, Pfiel has a better selection of geometry & palm handles are more comfy




But specifically for what you are trying to do... I probably would not use a chisel. ~ see my last answer.
Click to expand...

Thanks!

I guess my question was answered by Decker9. I'll post photos later today.
 
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