Choke Tubes on Trap fields

This has been argued/discussed for years and the consensus is that Imp. mod. is the min. for trap from the 16 yd. line and that modified is too open.I know that when you find whole clay birds out front of the trap house alot of them have holes in them but did not break, these are the ones that give off dust but no chips. I believe that it is because of too thin a pattern such as that from modified chokes, of course other things come into play, such as timing/distance, etc. I use I.M. for 16 yds. and full from the 27yd. line.
 
Thanks

ben hunchak said:
This has been argued/discussed for years and the consensus is that Imp. mod. is the min. for trap from the 16 yd. line and that modified is too open.I know that when you find whole clay birds out front of the trap house alot of them have holes in them but did not break, these are the ones that give off dust but no chips. I believe that it is because of too thin a pattern such as that from modified chokes, of course other things come into play, such as timing/distance, etc. I use I.M. for 16 yds. and full from the 27yd. line.
 
ben hunchak said:
This has been argued/discussed for years and the consensus is that Imp. mod. is the min. for trap from the 16 yd. line and that modified is too open.I know that when you find whole clay birds out front of the trap house alot of them have holes in them but did not break, these are the ones that give off dust but no chips. I believe that it is because of too thin a pattern such as that from modified chokes, of course other things come into play, such as timing/distance, etc. I use I.M. for 16 yds. and full from the 27yd. line.

Actually it depends on the chokes themselves and you should patern your gun because some chokes are different. Example. The invector plus chokes that came with Citori trap were ok. The imp mod worked fine for 16yrds but the full was like an extra full it was so tight.

Now I use Briley chokes and my modified is as tight or even a bit tighter than the browning imp mod. My full choke is better too.

So I now use a modified Briley for 16 and at my handicap which is only 20yrds. I use my full choke at meat shoots now and again, but the briley modified works really well for me
 
Thanks Jacky,

To do the patern thing is really a pain. I tried once but failed (my paper is not big enough). Seems I need to redo it ASAP.

Leo

jacky said:
Actually it depends on the chokes themselves and you should patern your gun because some chokes are different. Example. The invector plus chokes that came with Citori trap were ok. The imp mod worked fine for 16yrds but the full was like an extra full it was so tight.

Now I use Briley chokes and my modified is as tight or even a bit tighter than the browning imp mod. My full choke is better too.

So I now use a modified Briley for 16 and at my handicap which is only 20yrds. I use my full choke at meat shoots now and again, but the briley modified works really well for me
 
maple_sea said:
Thanks Jacky,

To do the patern thing is really a pain. I tried once but failed (my paper is not big enough). Seems I need to redo it ASAP.

Leo

I use standard flip chart paper. It captures pretty much the whole pattern with shots out to 25 yards. Further than that (or even at that distance with cylinder or imp. cylinder) the outer radius of the pattern misses the paper, but I still get an accurate representation of the pattern and a complete image of the pattern at POA. Two sheets of flip chart paper side by side on the board gives ample area for shots out to 50 yards. If someone were hitting clays or live birds with the fringes of the pattern, that person has bigger issues (sight picture, excessive or insufficient lead) that should be corrected before the shot pattern will impact his/her scores.

Nice thing about flip chart paper is that it's easy to find and not prohibitively expensive.

SS
 
SS,

I just saw your post but I did exactly the same this afternoon. I bought a nice 3M flip chart paper and it works just fine.

I patterned all my chokes and finally got an idea how they works.

Thanks again for all the help

Leo

straightshooter said:
I use standard flip chart paper. It captures pretty much the whole pattern with shots out to 25 yards. Further than that (or even at that distance with cylinder or imp. cylinder) the outer radius of the pattern misses the paper, but I still get an accurate representation of the pattern and a complete image of the pattern at POA. Two sheets of flip chart paper side by side on the board gives ample area for shots out to 50 yards. If someone were hitting clays or live birds with the fringes of the pattern, that person has bigger issues (sight picture, excessive or insufficient lead) that should be corrected before the shot pattern will impact his/her scores.

Nice thing about flip chart paper is that it's easy to find and not prohibitively expensive.

SS
 
Two posts on patterning within minutes. Rona sells 36" x 140' thick paper that is used for flooring and roofing applications for $12. Its thick like poster board but more flexible. I just tack it onto a 40x40 particle board and 2x2 frame I threw together in about 30 minutes.

Beat the heck out of myself patterning turkey loads this year. Invest in a thick pillow!
 
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