Chopping Heavy Barrel

[prproulx]

I am thinking of getting into some bench shooting. I like the idea of these heavy barrel varmint rifles, but I would like to make one that was a little more handy, eg, not so heavy.
What are the pitfalls of cutting back a heavy barrel, and how short can you make it?
I know velocity is affected, but what else?
Of course I would get a gunsmith to do this as I am a registered hazard with a tool in my hands.
Thanks
Pat

 

[NAA]

Barrel Bobbing Question...

Yeah, I've got the same question... You see something like the new Remington 700 LTR [Light Tactical Rifle] being offered from the factory in .308 Win with a 20" barrel.

Since I don't happen to have $1,000 kicking around to buy one right now I've thought of having my extra Rem 700 .308 Win 24" barrel rifle bobbed down to 20"... Worthwhile or not?

 

[Ardent]

Accuracy might impove, as the barrel is more rigid when shorter for the same diameter. Velocity will drop a bit, I like 20" for small cases. What cartridge are you using? That's a bigger question.

You should look into fluting, and keep the diameter large. This will allow for a lighter, quite stiff barrel.

 

[Ardent]

PS, .308 does very well in 20" guys.

 

[NAA]

20" barrels for the .308 Win

PS, .308 does very well in 20" guys.

Yeah, I believe that. Here's what I did with a buddy's Savage Model 10 LE with the 20" barrel, topped with econo Tasco Varmint 2.5-10x42mmAO mil-dot and factory IVI 150 gr softpoints. My first time shooting this rifle. Five shots @ 100 yards:

 

[prproulx]

Good to know. What's the legal limit for a bolt action?

 

[pilot24]

I had my HB 223 cut down and recrowned to 21'' to be able to take the rifle out hunting...

Accuracy improved a little bit and now can shoot 1/2 inchers with factory.

I would do it again anytime

I cronied the 55 gr at 3085 fps...

 

[Ardent]

Yeah, I believe that. Here's what I did with a buddy's Savage Model 10 LE with the 20" barrel, topped with econo Tasco Varmint 2.5-10x42mmAO mil-dot and factory IVI 150 gr softpoints. My first time shooting this rifle. Five shots @ 100 yards:

Yep, barrels are more rigid (and hence harmonically superior, in theory) when shorter and fat. Look at the bench rest guys. Many would disagree with me, but I feel the 20" is perfect for a .308 tackdriver. .308 isn't a 1000 yard cartridge anyway, it can do it, but there are WAY better choices. .308 is at its best out to 800, and 20" will handle this just fine (I've had .308 precision rigs from 20" to 27 1/4" and in between, 20" was best.) As for the group, not bad for cheap ammo But it gets stunning with handloaded Lapua brass and Scenars...

Good to know. What's the legal limit for a bolt action?

There isn't one, but that's if the barrel is factory made. For cutting down, you have to stay above the standard 18.5", but I really would suggest 20" as the best compromise.

 

[300Spartans]

Sounds like a good concept.

 

[Mystic Precision]

If you mean some type of saunctioned short range BR, you would be much better off getting a proper match barrel in an appropriate cartridge. You simply will not be competitive with a factory rifle and recoil will hurt your score even more.

If you want a factory rifle, then I would suggest the 222R, 223, 6PPC as viable choices. Even the 22/250 is not bad IF the chamber/barrel is up to the task. No need to get beat up paper punching.

For LR shooting and a factory rifle, the 223 fast twist, 243, 260, 708 are your best bets. Just look at the many posts on this topic elsewhere.

As to shorter barrels being more accurate? NOPE. The chamber is the most important part of that barrel. If cut poorly, you will have a non shooter no matter how short you make the barrel. Tuning the barrel length happens when you handload so the harmonics of a long barrel are eliminated (at least to the common 26" heavy barrel length).

Now a shorter barrel does have it's attributes but would I cut a factory barrel back to start. NO. I would shoot it first. If it shoots long, it may shoot a bit better short. If a dog long, I would get rid of it and put my money towards a match barrel.

Test the runout of few fired but unsized cases. If over 4thou, bye bye barrel.

So far Savage cuts them straight and throats are nice. Rem has had their problems. SAKO/TIKKA are also consistently good.

Even in a factory class, most short range BR rifles better shoot 1/4MOA or smaller consistently or else you better like the company you are shooting with.

Jerry

 

[Ardent]

If you mean some type of saunctioned short range BR, you would be much better off getting a proper match barrel in an appropriate cartridge. You simply will not be competitive with a factory rifle and recoil will hurt your score even more.

If you want a factory rifle, then I would suggest the 222R, 223, 6PPC as viable choices. Even the 22/250 is not bad IF the chamber/barrel is up to the task. No need to get beat up paper punching.

For LR shooting and a factory rifle, the 223 fast twist, 243, 260, 708 are your best bets. Just look at the many posts on this topic elsewhere.

As to shorter barrels being more accurate? NOPE. The chamber is the most important part of that barrel. If cut poorly, you will have a non shooter no matter how short you make the barrel. Tuning the barrel length happens when you handload so the harmonics of a long barrel are eliminated (at least to the common 26" heavy barrel length).

Now a shorter barrel does have it's attributes but would I cut a factory barrel back to start. NO. I would shoot it first. If it shoots long, it may shoot a bit better short. If a dog long, I would get rid of it and put my money towards a match barrel.

Test the runout of few fired but unsized cases. If over 4thou, bye bye barrel.

So far Savage cuts them straight and throats are nice. Rem has had their problems. SAKO/TIKKA are also consistently good.

Even in a factory class, most short range BR rifles better shoot 1/4MOA or smaller consistently or else you better like the company you are shooting with.

Jerry

Very well said Jerry, fantastic points.

 

[Why not?]

The experiments done in the Houston Wharehouse demonstrated that 21 3/4" was optimimum barrel length for finest grouping.

Ted

 

[cycbb486]

x2 with what Jerry said. The gun had better be able to agg in the low .2's day in and day out if you want to shoot and be competitive in the BR game.

It is heard all the time that someone says there gun can shoot like this or that, But can they go out day in and day out in varying conditions and make the gun shoot that well. With a factory gun done to the nines' it may do it once in a while but not every time. That is why it has been proven over and over why aftermarket actions and components prove superior to factory. That's what makes or breaks the game. Consistency.

When looking for the ultimate in accuracy one had better be shooting over flags and be able to read the conditions otherwise you beat yourself up trying to load develop. With them .2's is achievable without .5's to .75's may be more realistic.

 

[Mystic Precision]

Believe it or not, the top shooters are agg in the ZERO's. YIKES. maybe someone brings up an electron microscope to score.

Pretty much if you can't shoot in the 1's at a min or 2's in helacious conditions, short range BR is going to get pretty depressing.

Just do a search for scores at bigger US ranges or with the sanctioning body. Pretty amazing when you see someone shoot a 25rd agg at 200yds that is only 1/8".

Even the LR game has improved. Used to be 1/2 MOA was a winner at the very top levels. Most shooting 7" to 9" groups on average. Now they are shooting 3" and 4" aggs in good conditions. That would be average groups not the best ones.

That's pretty good doping...

Jerry