Cleaning 86 after black
- Thread starter MTM
- Start date
If you can clean the bore without any slop of solvent or dirt into the action, should be able to go for a long time without a full tear-down.
A trick to cleaning levers is using 1/4" plastic airline as a flexible cleaning rod. Thus you can clean from the chamber end. And common jags and brushes will thread into the tubing.
A trick to cleaning levers is using 1/4" plastic airline as a flexible cleaning rod. Thus you can clean from the chamber end. And common jags and brushes will thread into the tubing.
I fully disassemble up to the last screw of any of my percussion revolver right away every single shooting session. Cleaning is the key and doing so keeps every single black powder guns I have free of any tiny bit of rust that could hide somewhere on a gun. I have as much fun cleaning it or shooting it, it's part of the game. Here's a pic of my old 1971 Uberti 1861 NAVY wich hold 2000+ shots. No rust, any. It do the same with my rifles...
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antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
People get real anal about cleaning when it come to black powder.
Canadian tire sells a metal funnel that has a flexible metal hose get your self one of these. Dump really hot water down the barrel do then run a wet patch down the bore keep doing this till it comes out clean run a dry patch down the bore followed by a patch with oil of your choosing. Give the bolt face a wipe plus the inside of the receiver and give it a light coat of oil.
With the real stuff don’t need much more then water to clean it up.
Canadian tire sells a metal funnel that has a flexible metal hose get your self one of these. Dump really hot water down the barrel do then run a wet patch down the bore keep doing this till it comes out clean run a dry patch down the bore followed by a patch with oil of your choosing. Give the bolt face a wipe plus the inside of the receiver and give it a light coat of oil.
With the real stuff don’t need much more then water to clean it up.
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vagrantviking
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- High River, Alberta
Chamber a fired shell and use a good muzzle guide while cleaning from the front. Keeps the crud out of the action while cleaning.
Most of my more complicated to take down actions only get a full strip down and clean out once or twice a year. Southern Alberta is so dry that we can probably get away with things that might not be wise in other climates too though.
Most of my more complicated to take down actions only get a full strip down and clean out once or twice a year. Southern Alberta is so dry that we can probably get away with things that might not be wise in other climates too though.
Moose Milk and Ballistol are your friend. And Moose Milk is made from Ballistol and water. You can get Ballistol at Canadian Tire. It was me that got Ballistol into Canadian Tire. Amazing though it might seem.
antiqueguy
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- windsor ontario
Licensed to kill
CGN Regular
- Location
- Peace Country Alberta
It has been a LOT of years (probably about 40) since I looked into "moose milk" but it seems to me that it was water and water soluble oil, like that used for cooling in a machine shop (lathes, mills, band saws etc). Never really seen the point as saliva is a superior patch lube (except for hunting) and plain water a superior cleaning "solvent" and both are free. Just my experience, YMMV.
I clean my "86 inverted election port down and butt higher than the muzzle. I clean from the muzzle to the breach using a brass cone at the muzzle to protect the crown/muzzle. I use moose milk solution to clean with. I will also use four patches with M pro 7 to remove carbon. A couple of dry patches. I then send a patch with lead remover down the bore and let sit for a bit then send patches until dry. Then I oil the bore. I will wipe the breach area and the block and clean of any material and dry. put it away till next time. BTW, I remove all my patches at the breach I do not pull them back thru.
