Cleaning Corrosive Ammo Residue for Dummies

greendoh

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I'm seeing quite a few questions about cleaning corrosive salts after firing surplus ammo, no doubt triggered by the flood of cheap Russian SKS rifles on the market. I've been dealing with this for quite some time, and after some trial and error and research, I've found an easy way to reliably clean a rifle...

Among all the firearm communities there has been some back and forth on the ammonia in Windex cleaning the corrosive salts in a rifle. I used to be a fan, but at the same time, generally speaking, cleaning the rifle thoroughly using bore solvent or other chemicals will prevent the salts from causing rust, so if you are using Windex in addition to bore solvent, you're being redundant.

Keep in mind I still use Windex as a stop gap measure when I don't have all the time to clean a rifle, but I highly doubt that the windex without the scrubbing and wiping will prevent rust in the long term.

So with Windex aside, in reality, there is one universally accepted non-harsh chemical method to cleaning a rifle after shooting corrrosive ammo: running boiling water over the metalic parts followed by a thorough wiping down.

The working theory is that the heated water washes down the salts and the wiping cleans anything that is left over.

The working theory works, and it works well. Proven time and time again.

The only real issue I have with boiling water is that it's a pain in the rear. You need a funnel, you need to wait for water to boil, then you pour it down the metal (into a tub or something) which can often lead to being splashed with hot water... all in all it's not fun, and it's a major pain in the rear.

So how do you follow a proven method without all the fuss?

Through steam - or more specifically, a steamer!

What's that you say? I don't own a steamer?

You are missing the most valuable tool in a milsurp/red rifle owner's catalog!

Here is what a steamer can do for you:
1. Remove cosmoline - It doesn't matter who I get my rifle from, how old it is, or how well it's been clean. A session with a steamer always finds at least some if not LOTS of cosmoline, and let me tell you, that sticky stuff just melts and wipes right off!
2. Fix dings in wood - I've never personally done this, but there is lots of info out there on how it's done. Steam supposedly evens the wood out.
3. Clean your rifle - The point of this post.

Go to Canadian Tire, buy the little $50-$60 hand steamers.

When you come home from shooting, rather than boiling a bowl of water and running it through the barrel with a funnel, strip your rifle, point the nozzle of the steam cleaner down the barrel and go for it. You can also clean the gas tube, bolt, operating rod, magazines, the chamber - anything that is metallic and would be exposed to corrosive salts, which is basically everything.

Once you've run the steamer down the parts, thoroughly wipe all the parts down with a cloth/rag. Make sure no moisture remains. For the bore, run cleaning patches down there until they come out clean. You can alternate between rushing steam and patches, but again, make sure no moisture or dirt remains.

Two caveats:
1. Don't leave any moisture behind! The steamers tend to spray hot steam all over the place, which ends up condensing and leaving water droplets in places you'd not expect to find them, like in the trigger assembly, which can cause rust.
2. Metal gets hot! After running my steamer on a metallic part for 5 seconds or so, that part tends to get hot hot hot.. to the point at which it can literally burn you. Be careful when running steam down the bore, as the entire rifle will heat up pretty quickly.

So there you have it, my no chemical, no fuss steam cleaning solution to the problem of corrosive salts.
 
Cool, thanks, where have you been yesterday when I spent half a night cleaning with windex+boiling water+oil :) and I have a steamer already...
 
So treat guns that fired corrosive ammo the same as a blackpowder gun. The old saying was 'going down to the creek to clean my gun' Guess it still holds!:)
 
When I was running my business, I sold quite a number of military rifles preserved in cosmoline. I can assure you that an industrial high pressure steamer will do a fast, thorough job of getting rid of the cosmoline.
The hot metal dries fast. Wipe down and apply the product of your choice. Something in a spray might be best.
Windex, being water based, will dissolve corrosive salts. Ammonia is a good cleaning agent, could be useful, but has nothing to do with neutralizing the salts. Neither water nor ammonia will do anything to preserve steel - the exact opposive could result.
Greendoh's suggestion of using a CanTire steamer sounds like a really good one.
 
Nice idea! Next time the wife asks if we should get one I'll say yes..

My wife was sold on the idea pretty easily - she figured I'd be cleaning the kitchen counters with it. Boy was she suprised when I spent the entire afternoon cleaning everything in the gun cabinet :D.

I was put to work the next day cleaning the kitchen counters. It worked well there too - I was suprised how much mold there was under the sink!

Steam cleaner is one of the best cleaning tools period - just so happens guns need lots of cleaning!
 
This is not meant to slam those who take the effort to thoroughly clean with water, but I was anal and paranoid about corrosive ammo turning my treasured SKSs into iron oxide, until I gave the procedure more thought.

To put things in perspective, it is not likely the VietCong/NVA and Yugoslavians carried Windex or extra water to boil, when they went into battle. What they did have was a relatively large container of oil.

Our Russkie SKSs comes with this bottle. As long as one kept his rifle reasonably clean and maintained a thin film of oil or metal preservative to act as barrier for corrosive primer residue from making contact with blued metal, no rusting will occur.

IMO, just clean/lube the way you'd normally thoroughly dismantle and clean the firearm after firing non-corrosive ammo (meaning waterless cleaning..liquid or gaseous state), then coating all surfaces (in and out) with thin coat of any good lube/rust preventive spray.

So far has worked for me.
 
The steamer sounds like a good idea.

I wouldn't count on regular cleaning solvents removing corrosive salts, though. This requires either water or an aqueous solution, such as Windex or Simple Green.

The SKS was typically issued with a two-chambered bottle; one side for oil and the other for some sort of cleaning solvent, which I assume would be similar to GI bore cleaner, capable of dissolving the corrosive salts.
 
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