I have a '51 Tula that had lots of Carbon and Copper streaks in a barrel with many linear scratches, I assume from lots of FMJ rounds and maybe use of OEM steel cleaning tools b4 I got it 
. Anyway, after trying to clean that with lots of .30cal brushing and solvents I finally bought a .338 brass brush to 'really attack' it, maybe 10-15 passes - Now very shiny w/NO Carbon or Brass streaks. Looks great except for all the scratches. Now only a couple passes needed since I got it shiny, and I don't have to 'go nuts' with the oversize brush now. I use Hoppes Copper solvent (I have 2-3 brands of CuSolvent) and Boretech C-4 . For storage I re-used the Hoppes Oil bottle that came with a cheap cleaning kit (I bought at yard sale for the jags,etc) and use Synth-auto oil on a patch wrapped with a cotton strip like cosmic. Oil sorta heavy to store, then solvent/patch it out b4 next shooting trip. And I always oil up my SKS after every cleaning, even if I plan to shoot again in a couple days.
The rifle now shoots ca. 2-3" @ 50 , 5-6" @ 100 and 12" @ 180 yds. with irons. Red dot coming soon . . .
. Anyway, after trying to clean that with lots of .30cal brushing and solvents I finally bought a .338 brass brush to 'really attack' it, maybe 10-15 passes - Now very shiny w/NO Carbon or Brass streaks. Looks great except for all the scratches. Now only a couple passes needed since I got it shiny, and I don't have to 'go nuts' with the oversize brush now. I use Hoppes Copper solvent (I have 2-3 brands of CuSolvent) and Boretech C-4 . For storage I re-used the Hoppes Oil bottle that came with a cheap cleaning kit (I bought at yard sale for the jags,etc) and use Synth-auto oil on a patch wrapped with a cotton strip like cosmic. Oil sorta heavy to store, then solvent/patch it out b4 next shooting trip. And I always oil up my SKS after every cleaning, even if I plan to shoot again in a couple days. The rifle now shoots ca. 2-3" @ 50 , 5-6" @ 100 and 12" @ 180 yds. with irons. Red dot coming soon . . .
