Cleaning my new SKS??

Congrats on your new SKS! :)

Here is a collection of handy SKS sites I have found the past few months. :D
These should be put in a sticky. :D

Uber SKS Facts (an ever evolving webpage on this Rifle):
http://www.simonov.net/index.htm

Cleaning (one method):
http://www.surplusrifle.com/sks/cleaning/hs.asp

A small Manual:
http://www.mcdl.org/manual.html

A whole bunch of Manuals in pdf:
http://sksmanuals.cjb.net/

A message board filled with fellow SKS nutters(still not as good as this board):
http://www.sksboards.com/forum/

Also:
Get yourself a tight fitting heavy plastic funnel with a long neck from Canadian tire...so you can (Carefully) pour hot water down the barrel through the breach end -without- soaking the whole gun, and getting water trapped between the wood and the barrel...which can lead to an unpleasant rust surprise when you do take the furniture off at another date. :eek:

I find this is also very handy if you are out camping/hunting and don't want to take your whole rifle apart by Camp fire light.
 
poweredbybeer said:
Make sure that if you don't disassemble the bolt (I wouldn't blame you if you didn't, I sure as hell didn't on mine!), you hose out the firing pin mechanism REALLY REALLY well with WD-40 to get all the water and/or cosmoline outta there.
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Am I missing something poweredbybeer? I don't mean to contradict you buddy, but I am curious about this statement... I follow the bolt disassembly instructions on www.surplusrifle.com and everything works fine. One trick though, when you tap out that pin on the bolt, it helps if you are on a hard, steady surface. Also, be sure to leave room under the pin as you are punching it, if you want it to come out. I like to but the bolt to rest on 2 blocs (one on each end) my self. I have read that bolt disassembly and cleaning may prevent slamfires in SKS's. Any how, you guys take care, I'm leaving for the Perth gun show in a few minutes. :)
 
roadwarrior said:
Am I missing something poweredbybeer? I don't mean to contradict you buddy, but I am curious about this statement...
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I just didn't disassemble the bolt cuz I'm lazy, that's all :cool: I don't have a sturdy table, I don't have anything to use for little wee blocks to hold the bolt up, and I don't have a ball peen hammer or proper size punch, so I didn't do it, I used my WD-40 straw instead :D Plus, every time you punch the pins out you wear the pinholes and the pins so that, eventually (like after a hundred or so disassembly's), the pins don't fit tight in the pinholes anymore. I'm personally not concerned about this, it's a pretty anal thing to be worried about, but it's just one more excuse for me to be lazy and not disassemble the bolt ;)

The taper at the end of the firing pin is the only real design problem with this part. Over time (due to lots of hammer strikes) it wedges itself into position, as tapered metal parts usually do. Morris tapers are used on drill presses and milling machines to hold the chuck or tool holder into the driveshaft, and anyone that's used a drill press can attest to how strong this method is. What this means for the firing pin is that if the firing pin is clean and lightly lubricated in its bore, it is less likely to stick. The whole concern that it's going to get "suctioned" into place and cause a slamfire is unfounded (maybe if you lube it with elmer's white glue!).

So yeah, that's why I don't disassemble my bolt :D
 
Hahhaha. Yeah your own friends look at you like your going to go on a massive shooting rampage. Heh, morons. Thanks for cleaning info. My parents are anti-gun too. I outsmarted them once again though. On the way back from the gun-show, I called them and said "me and mark split on a crappy old .22'', "we are keeping it in the vault at the Edge". They freaked out for 20 minutes and then got tired and shut up. So now they think I have a gun. Its in their psyche now. Now I'm free to buy what I want. Heh.
 
Don't waste your time cleaning it! (watch all the cry babies respond to this).
you'll need to put a real stock on it, I had one for a week or so,then sold the peice of junk! You should have spent your money on a Ruger 10/22. (ammo's cheaper and there more fun).
 
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panzerslob2 said:
Don't waste your time cleaning it! (watch all the cry babies respond to this).
you'll need to put a real stock on it, I had one for a week or so,then sold the peice of junk! You should have spent your money on a Ruger 10/22. (ammo's cheaper and there more fun).
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Nice avatar.
 
Anyone that advocates not cleaning any rifle after use (without a darn good reason) is IMHO in no position to offer advice on rifles to others. :rolleyes:
 
poweredbybeer said:
I just didn't disassemble the bolt cuz I'm lazy, that's all :cool: I don't have a sturdy table, I don't have anything to use for little wee blocks to hold the bolt up, and I don't have a ball peen hammer or proper size punch, so I didn't do it, I used my WD-40 straw instead :D Plus, every time you punch the pins out you wear the pinholes and the pins so that, eventually (like after a hundred or so disassembly's), the pins don't fit tight in the pinholes anymore. I'm personally not concerned about this, it's a pretty anal thing to be worried about, but it's just one more excuse for me to be lazy and not disassemble the bolt ;)

The taper at the end of the firing pin is the only real design problem with this part. Over time (due to lots of hammer strikes) it wedges itself into position, as tapered metal parts usually do. Morris tapers are used on drill presses and milling machines to hold the chuck or tool holder into the driveshaft, and anyone that's used a drill press can attest to how strong this method is. What this means for the firing pin is that if the firing pin is clean and lightly lubricated in its bore, it is less likely to stick. The whole concern that it's going to get "suctioned" into place and cause a slamfire is unfounded (maybe if you lube it with elmer's white glue!).

So yeah, that's why I don't disassemble my bolt :D
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Thanks for the clarification you lazy bum ! :cool: :p :D
 
Well, I have to say that I clean the bolt almost every time I use the rifle. If I don't disassemble it I spray it with brake cleaner then check to see if it rattles. A good trick to getting the pin out is to use an opened phone book and place the bolt in the spine. This leaves an area for the pin to move out. Sooner or later you will have to disasseble the bolt. The pin will only work one way so check the position when you take it out. On my rifles there is a clear mark on the firing pin where the retainer rubs on it.Once I had a chunk of primer or something like that jam in the FP channel. It stuck the firing pin in the channel and being metal, no solvent would get it out. For cleaning, I use hot water and soap, Ed's Red mixture and CLP for lube. At the range when finished, I soak the leading edge of a 30 cal bore snake with windex and give it a couple of pulls. I grease the rails and sides of the bolt, I put a little on the gas piston grooves and I put a little bit of grease between the bolt and carrier. I don't soak the the trigger group but wipe it clean then spray with dri lube or graphite and then wipe excess off
 
Actually as mentioned in other recent posts, some of the Chinese versions will allow you to put the pin in upside down...which is a very bad thing if you don't notice.

Watch how them pins come out very carefully.:eek:
 
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