Cleaning Of A New Barrel For "Break In"

Max Owner

Max Owner

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Hey all.

This isn't a debate about breakin in a barrel. I figure I am just gonna do it based on info from the Savage website.

What I am looking for is info/suggestions for copper and powder solvents.

I figured all that I needed to know was Wipe Out, but not gonna use it for this project. That'll be for cleanings as required.

I am looking at separate solvents for powder and copper.
 
I usually use Hoppes for powder and Sweets for copper in mine.

I have switched to industrial ammonia, it seems to work faster than sweets but does not have any lubricants in it like sweets does but does a good job on the carbon and powder fouling as well.
 
Janitorial grade Ammonia (18BRUN or something like that). I have used it for years after trying Barnes CR10 (great stuff by the way). If there is any copper in your barrel, the ammonia is stripping it out right now.

DO NOT LEAVE IN THE BARREL FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. Just wipe it in and wipe it out. The time it takes to change a patch is all that is needed to function.

Cleaning one of my match barrels takes under 10 patches so can be done in a few minutes..

I found that it is very effective on the caked in carbon fouling that most powder solvents will not touch so now just use it by itself. I rarely use JB now.

The metal is bone dry when done so if rust is a potential, some perservative is necessary. Maybe a couple of patches of Hoppes then dry - should do the trick.

Definitely an outdoors, fresh air kind of product.

Jerry
 
mysticplayer said:
Janitorial grade Ammonia (18BRUN or something like that). I have used it for years after trying Barnes CR10 (great stuff by the way). If there is any copper in your barrel, the ammonia is stripping it out right now.

DO NOT LEAVE IN THE BARREL FOR ANY LENGTH OF TIME. Just wipe it in and wipe it out. The time it takes to change a patch is all that is needed to function.

Cleaning one of my match barrels takes under 10 patches so can be done in a few minutes..

I found that it is very effective on the caked in carbon fouling that most powder solvents will not touch so now just use it by itself. I rarely use JB now.

The metal is bone dry when done so if rust is a potential, some perservative is necessary. Maybe a couple of patches of Hoppes then dry - should do the trick.

Definitely an outdoors, fresh air kind of product.

Jerry
Click to expand...


I run a patch of Hoppes after the Ammonia to coat the barrel, Hoppes leaves a small film of oily coating to make sure it stays "wet" after cleaning. Plus Hoppes smells good and keeps the vault smelling nice. LOL

Definitely an outside or well ventilated area kind of thing with the Ammonia, I almost lost my breath one day in the garage....now I make sure there is a breeze blowing through.
 
be careful, if your rifle is stainless, ammonia with attack the metalergy of stainless. plus straight ammonia is extremely corrosive. might be ok thinned out when cleaning. But lubricate right away after using
 
i use the patch out liquid. easier to use at the range than the foam. cleans powder fouling better than anything i have tried. also agressive on copper.
 
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