Cleaning the chamber of the rifle

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Black Jack

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Ottawa
I would like to know what you guys use to clean the chamber of the rifle. Sometimes after a while there is a little bit of rust that gets inside where the shell section of the chamber is. Since i only neck size, sometimes my reloaded rounds won't even chamber. If i use some factory ammo, they will chamber easy but after they are fired, they will jam inside the chamber because of those few thousands of an inch too small of rusty coating. Is there a tool or a trick to clean this section. I presently use a 12 gauge brush and i taped the end to make sure i don't touch the lands of my barrel but i'm always wondering if i'm maybe damaging my barrel doing this. Thanks
 
you can use a 45 cal brush to clean the chamber of the 308/-30-06 series- you shouldn't hurt anything as the rifle is steel, the brush is phosphor bronze- or should be- the only way to hurt it would be with a stainless steel brush- what caliber are we dealing with?-for a 223 , you can use a 9mm - the easy way to guess what size chamber brush you need is to take an empty casing and size the brush according to the diameter of the case body- or get out your reloading manual or a dimensional drawing of the round you're using and size it from that -
 
Black Jack said:
Sorry about that. It's for a Remmy 700, 308. And is there any solvent that i should use to remove this or just the brush. Thanks again.
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Any good rust remover /penetrate willdo, just make sure to get it all out of the chamber with a dry patch after.
Anything in the chamber will raise pressure drasticly when the cartrdige is fired.

I am wondering, how do you get so much rust in the chamber of your rifle?
Cat
 
It's not a lot of rust but there is a small thickness that builds up after a while. I live in a semibasement so the humidity is higher. I need to do that about twice a year. The fact that my shells are already the size of the chamber makes it too tight with those few thousands more. Thanks
 
ok- a brush for a 45 cal rifle will do the job- use a rifle brush so you clean the whole length of the cartridge- and rotate it around the chamber rather than the push pull like you do when cleaning the barrel- in other words, push it in as far as it will go easily and twist, but in the direction the way the brush screws into cleaning rod- i've found that a single section of rod or a PISTOL rod works best as that way you're nice and close to the action and the rod doesn't flex as much-most rods are an 8x32 right hand thread so you want to turn to the right righty tighty. lefty loosey- you don't want the brush coming off in there if possible- maybe use hoppes 9 or a good quality bore cleaner after you've gotten rid of the rust- a rust remover may react with the bronze brush- rust remover reacts with a lot of things- personally, i'd just brush it clean -
 
There is a chamber brush made specifically for the M1 Garand that will work for your chamber. You insert it and the end sticking out of the chamber has a plastic rachet cylinder that you screw the end of a jag into to act as a little handle, then work it back and forth to rotate the brush in one direction. That rotation in combination with a to and fro action with the bolt removed should get the chamber clean.
 
I would put a bit of steel wool and gun oil on that .45cal brush/rod and chuck it in a drill and giver ####, but then again I've been known to do stupid things???????


I did it to a buddy's BLR in .308 and it worked well.
 
guninhand said:
There is a chamber brush made specifically for the M1 Garand that will work for your chamber. You insert it and the end sticking out of the chamber has a plastic rachet cylinder that you screw the end of a jag into to act as a little handle, then work it back and forth to rotate the brush in one direction. That rotation in combination with a to and fro action with the bolt removed should get the chamber clean.
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that's an awfully expensive way to clean out a chamber- that brush like 4 bucks us plus ship and handle- and the trouble getting it across the border- mine you can get anywhere- and if you're using a jag to turn it, you're not getting the full advantage- these were made to be used with a cleaning rod segment, ( the cleaning kit in the butt of the garand has 5) plus it's a half inch too long- not that it matters in this case, but it's mentioned somewhere NOT to use garand chamber brushes in 308 chambers- i don't know why
 
I've run into the same problem (humidity) with both rifles & shotguns.
For 12ga. shotguns, I use a 10ga brush as a chamber brush, and for rifles, such as the .308 & .30-06 family of cartridges, a .50 cal bore brush as a chamber brush
( those cartridges have a 0.473" base diameter, so the 50 cal brush works better than a .45 cal brush - "Pro-Shot" [cleaning rods & accessories] also makes a specific chamber cleaning brush ). When things get bad on the shotgun, I have taken an old aluminum Hoppes cleaning rod front section and chucked it in a 3/8 drill. Slipped a piece of clear vinyl hose (available Home Depot) rover the rod to prevent it fom touching the chamber, and gone at it with the "chamber brush & Hoppe's No. 9 - after wrapping a little 0000 Steel wool around the chamber brush.
Does a great job ! Same process for a bolt rifle - only with a sacrificed fron part of a rifle cleaning rod chucked in the drill. Neither the brush nor the super-fine steel wool hurts a thing.

Leaving the bolt out of the rifle (after a thorough cleaning & oiling - store muzzle down ) seems to help too. For shotguns, take the barrel off the gun - try and store so air can circulate. A big bag of desicant will also help in your storage area. For longer term storage "RIG" seems the best rust preventative... but don't forget to clean it out before you use it !!!!
 
Thanks a lot for the replies. I used a 12ga brush with a drill and then a .410 swab to clean it after. Made a good job. I can now cycle my action with my reload without a problem. Where can i buy a big bag of desicant? Thanks
 
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