Cleaning up a stainless 686
- Thread starter edon
- Start date
Be very careful if you try a grinder mounted wheel, it can sent the part rocketing into the floor if the wheel catches on an edge, I have seen it happen a couple of times. I would stay away from the mechanical methods and stick with hand polishing, like Sunray said Flitz would be a good product to try.
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
Auto-sol comes in a tube (like toothpaste) and is made in Germany I believe. It's good enough for my Harley and my GP100, it should be good enough for your S&W.
I was in the same position you were--my 23-year-old 686 looked like cutlery that had been banging around the kitchen drawer. I picked up some Mothers Mag and Wheel polish from Cdn Tire last winter and had a go. It took only a few hours by hand with an old t-shirt as a rag, and hardly any "elbow grease" since the polish is very light in consistency. I left the cylinder flutes "as is" to give a bit of contrast. Anyway, I'm very happy with the results:
- Location
- Montreal, Quebec
Master-G said:I was in the same position you were--my 23-year-old 686 looked like cutlery that had been banging around the kitchen drawer. I picked up some Mothers Mag and Wheel polish from Cdn Tire last winter and had a go. It took only a few hours by hand with an old t-shirt as a rag, and hardly any "elbow grease" since the polish is very light in consistency. I left the cylinder flutes "as is" to give a bit of contrast. Anyway, I'm very happy with the results:
Holy cow!
That looks like NICKLE finish rather than stainless.
edon said:
I use Mothers or Flitz.
Both work well, just don't rub the lettering quite as much/hard. Clean the rest of the revolver well, and be careful around the markings (even if you try to avoid them, after an hour or so of rubbing, they will get cleaned by 'accident').
I don't know where you are from but in BC at Lordco Auto parts there is a product called FLITZ. Comes in a small tube and is a light abrasive paste. I use it on my stainless 686 and it makes an amazing difference. Just rub it in and then polish with a clean rag. Similar product is Autosol and works the same way - also at auto parts stores. Something else recently recommended is a product in most Canadian Tire stores called NeverDull. Comes in a blue can and is like cotten wadding impregnated with something smelling a bit like a petroleum product. Not abrasive and is particularly good for powder burn residue on the front face of the cylinder and barrel. If you use these products for 10 minutes here and there when you can't get to the range but want to play weith the toys you will see a marked improvement in shine. Don't forget to take of the grips and get in there too. If you have an older model with stainless trigger and hammer, you're lucky. Mine is newer and has MIM parts (dark color, blackish) instead. They are just as good but can't be polished.edon said:
Mike
If you want a factory looking "brushed" look... RONA sells 'Synthetic 000 & 0 wool' that works wonders on steel for a factory look and doesn't take long to do (a few passes with your hand).
I recommend trying this first (only sets you back $5)
I recommend trying this first (only sets you back $5)
Thanks for all the advice guys, but this is what I'm trying to avoid. I personally do like the look of Master-G's polished 686 but I'm quite sure that amount of polishing on mine would do something undesireable to the new-style eched lettering - I sure wish they still stamped the letters in. Since most of my damage is on the cylinder, I think I'll just try a light polish or G37's syn wool on that to make it match the frame/barrel better.Wendell said:
aiwa said:
One type of ammo I use leaves stubborn black there, if you are talking about the forward, but outside area of the cylinder. I was told it was lead..not carbon. I bought some of those little lead cleaning patch/cloths and it works with a little patience and finger work. Best to not let this black sit too long before you clean it also.
I don't clean the face of my cylinder very aggressively..just solvent and a cloth, as I heard there is a danger of rounding off the chambers in front, to the detriment of accuracy. You can't really see this part of the gun in most handling anyway.
