Colt 1911 Feed Issues

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bydabeav

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Not sure if this is the correct place for this thread but since I suspect a reloading issue may be the cause I will start here. I have been reloading for my Ruger SR1911 (.45 ACP) for about a year now. Approx. 500 Rounds, not one misfire or feed issue. The Recipe is 220 Grain Round nose bullet, 4.7 Grains of Titegroup powder.

I just got my Colt 1911 Gold Cup's slide refinished. This is a custom made piece made by Frank Paris complete with a muzzle brake. The slide spring is much heavier than my Ruger SR1911. Also the extractor looks slightly different. The slide extractor is slightly longer in the Ruger. As mentioned above my reloads fire perfectly through the Ruger and my S&W 625 revolver really likes them. The problem I now have is the colt (which has not been fired since the mid 1980's) will not extract the cases consistently. I would say about 20% will either stovepipe or block the next round from being loaded and jam the slide open.

Could this be caused by a light load, perhaps I should increase the power load to 5.0 or even 5.5 like the titegroup label says? I questions because my Ruger did not like a heavier load.......... Or should I be looking at a faulty extractor.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Fire some factory loaded ammunition and see if it ejects, if it ejects its not the extractor.

Next go to the Brian Enos forum explain your custom 1911 and ask for load information that will cycle the slide.

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showforum=74

As a side note your bullet seating depth has a big effect on chamber pressure and you may just need to increase you powder charge. Your at the start load range for that weight bullet and you may just need a little more horse power to push the slide back all the way and overcome the stronger spring.
 
It could be caused by a light load, depending on how heavy your recoil spring is. Most of them come somewhat over-sprung for target loads. It could also just be that your extractor is very old and needs to be adjusted or replaced.

If you can, try some factory loads through it and see what happens. If it still leaves brass in the breach it is likely the extractor.
 
relliott said:
It could be caused by a light load, depending on how heavy your recoil spring is. Most of them come somewhat over-sprung for target loads. It could also just be that your extractor is very old and needs to be adjusted or replaced.

If you can, try some factory loads through it and see what happens. If it still leaves brass in the breach it is likely the extractor.
Click to expand...

OK thank you, I will try some factory Ammo tomorrow evening.
 
I know my Gunnar Colt Series 70, Bull barrel Comped Topend. It has a light recoil spring on it. And I'm shooting 5.3 Grains of Aliant Unique Power 230grn 1.24" OAL. I would def replace the extractor/ejector.
 
RobertMcC said:
I know my Gunnar Colt Series 70, Bull barrel Comped Topend. It has a light recoil spring on it. And I'm shooting 5.3 Grains of Aliant Unique Power 230grn 1.24" OAL. I would def replace the extractor/ejector.
Click to expand...

I was hoping that adjusting powder weight would solve this and will still look into that.....but what you say here is what I suspect is the issue. This was a gun built for competitive shooting and it look like is has seen a great deal of use, this is why I had everything re-blued. The amount of lead and "gunk" that came out of this gun was alarming.
 
bydabeav said:
I was hoping that adjusting powder weight would solve this and will still look into that.....but what you say here is what I suspect is the issue. This was a gun built for competitive shooting and it look like is has seen a great deal of use, this is why I had everything re-blued. The amount of lead and "gunk" that came out of this gun was alarming.
Click to expand...

Yeah mine has to be refinished since I don't use it for comp any more. Yeah I think mine has a 14 or 16LB spring in it. But now since I had the comp removed I'm in the same boat, trying to figure loads and spring rate.
 
The stock factory spring is set up for typically heavy factory loads. If it was a competition gun that was used in the 80's it would have been set up for 180 + power factor loads, which is not what we use now. For a 175 +power factor you should be fine with a 14 lb spring. If the gun has just been sitting since the 80's the extractor has probably taken a set. With the slide off the gun and barrel removed, the extractor should be able to hold a loaded round in place on the breach face, and should continue to hold it when you give the slide a good shake. If it doesn't, refit or replace the extractor. .
 
relliott said:
The stock factory spring is set up for typically heavy factory loads. If it was a competition gun that was used in the 80's it would have been set up for 180 + power factor loads, which is not what we use now. For a 175 +power factor you should be fine with a 14 lb spring. If the gun has just been sitting since the 80's the extractor has probably taken a set. With the slide off the gun and barrel removed, the extractor should be able to hold a loaded round in place on the breach face, and should continue to hold it when you give the slide a good shake. If it doesn't, refit or replace the extractor. .
Click to expand...
The extractor test as it is known to me.
It should be able to hold a loaded round till it is given a firm shake where it should release the round.
When the same test is performed with an empty shell casing it should hold onto it no matter how firmly it is being shaken.

There are 4 things to look at when a 1911 has feeding /extraction problems.
Magazines, extractor tension, recoil spring weight, firing pin stop radius.
The more square the firing pin stop radius is the lower the recoil spring weight should be.

Standard loads with no compensator should run a recoil spring between 18-22 lbs using a rounded firing pin stop.
 
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All good now, I figured it out. When I has the slide and muzzle brake re-blued it left a rough mating surface where it contacts the frame. I got out the 800 grit sandpaper and polished the s#/t out all mating surfaces and it works like a dream now. I did try a slightly heavier power charge and it seems to like it but my Ruger does not so I will stick with my standard recipe for .45 ACP.

Thank you all for your suggestions.
 
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