Converting from percussion cap to flintlock
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NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
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- Northwest BC (Rural) 103-I-##
On some factory models this can be straightforward. For many rifles, it is easier to convert the other way but by no means impossible. Just more work (potentially).
What type of rifle are we talking about here?
Is it a custom build or a brand name? Can start there.
There are also some inexpensive but good quality flintlock rifles that are available, ready to go
What type of rifle are we talking about here?
Is it a custom build or a brand name? Can start there.
There are also some inexpensive but good quality flintlock rifles that are available, ready to go
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First off you will need to buy a new flint lock to replace the percussion one because it is nowhere near cost effective to convert the percussion lock to flint. If you can do that then there is the barrel to contend with. If the powder drum simply screws into the side of the barrel then you can unscrew it, replace it with a proper thread-size vent liner insert and hope the flash hole aligns with the pan on the new lock. However, if the barrel has a patent breech or snail-style breech plug then you are faced with removing the snail or whole assembly from the barrel, fitting a new breech plug and tang, re-inletting the rear of the barrel and tang into the stock, re-positioning the barrel underlugs that hold the barrel in the stock, drilling a flash hole in the proper location and if it is a full stock then shortening the fore-stock to match the reduced barrel length.
Hope you are up for a challenge.
If you are new to BP and PRB shooting then I strongly suggest you spend a year learning the intricacies of getting performance out of a percussion then buy a good quality flinter and carry on. Also, while learning about your percussion, go to the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association website and buy the new $30 book by Eric Bye on Flintlocks - it will save you years of frustration on the flintlock learning curve and a lot of what he has to say also applies to getting the most out of percussion shooting. Good luck and have fun.
Hope you are up for a challenge.
If you are new to BP and PRB shooting then I strongly suggest you spend a year learning the intricacies of getting performance out of a percussion then buy a good quality flinter and carry on. Also, while learning about your percussion, go to the National Muzzle Loading Rifle Association website and buy the new $30 book by Eric Bye on Flintlocks - it will save you years of frustration on the flintlock learning curve and a lot of what he has to say also applies to getting the most out of percussion shooting. Good luck and have fun.
NorthCoastBigBore
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Northwest BC (Rural) 103-I-##
^^ Right - this is what I'm getting at.
The complexity depends upon the rifle. Certain factory models, you can replace the lock, unscrew the drum (or replace the whole barrel or at least the patent breech, i.e. with a Great Plains Rifle or a Thompson/Center), replace with a the proper hardware, etc. & go. Will still run you several hundred.
But if it's a custom (depending on the lock/drum/bolster combination used), or a model that you can't do the above, well now you're into 'er.
And in either event, you have to know what you're doing.
Good luck
The complexity depends upon the rifle. Certain factory models, you can replace the lock, unscrew the drum (or replace the whole barrel or at least the patent breech, i.e. with a Great Plains Rifle or a Thompson/Center), replace with a the proper hardware, etc. & go. Will still run you several hundred.
But if it's a custom (depending on the lock/drum/bolster combination used), or a model that you can't do the above, well now you're into 'er.
And in either event, you have to know what you're doing.
Good luck
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My suggestion would be to buy the cap lock rifle and shoot it for a while and see if you can handle the smell of black powder residues from the cleaning patch, if you can get past that then think about a conversion to flint
This. Although it's great fun shooting these guns require a bit more work than a cartridge gun. Cleaning in particular and there is a lot to learn about powders, loads, projectiles and which works best. Also patience. I'd stick with percussion and swap it later if you find these guns are for you. Many like myself just love these old girls.
I think I would recommend starting with percussion and get comfortable with that first. I would avoid spanish guns and relative to conversions, the drum in a spanish gun often screws almost completely through the breach area of the barrel. That makes them very impractical to convert. Most commercial percussion guns have a snail or built in nipple seat in the breach plug and that would have to be replaced with a flint breach plug and in many cases, the plug is extremely difficult to remove.
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
I would not touch a spanish hawken if it has a drum to hold the nipple. At least some have the drum screw almost all the way through the barrel and that means there is an extra 90 degree turn in the flash channel. In my experience they tend to foul quickly and the cap will fail to ignite the charge
cheers mooncoon
cheers mooncoon
Hard to generalize about "Spanish" or "Italian" guns because of the wide range of quality. One thing to look for is the inside of the lock: does it have a bridle supporting the tumbler and axle of the hammer? Some don't and they would be considered lesser quality. Regardless, there isn't much rocket science in producing a good shooting barrel anymore. Case in point was a cheap Spanish half-stock belonging to a young friend who couldn't get it shooting decently. The sights wobbled so I replaced them for $20, polished and lubed the inside of the lock that didn't have a bridle, adjusted the trigger pull and lowered the comb so it was easier to align the sights. Now it will shoot 5 shots into a 3/4" group at 50 yds and that was without any significant load development effort. Give it a try and maybe flip it for a flinter in a year or so: it will make for a good learning experience.
