Cooey
- Thread starter DLC
- Start date
Its not that hard and is a common question. Best asked in the Rim fire section.
ACTS and PROVE rifle.
Remove the Stock. On the same bolt that you use to remove the stock is a nut. Loosen this nut and you will then be able to disengage the feed system from the bolt. You can not slide the bolt back and out with the trigger depressed fully.
Great little rifles. Shoot well and easy to work on. I have two.
ACTS and PROVE rifle.
Remove the Stock. On the same bolt that you use to remove the stock is a nut. Loosen this nut and you will then be able to disengage the feed system from the bolt. You can not slide the bolt back and out with the trigger depressed fully.
Great little rifles. Shoot well and easy to work on. I have two.
I have a Cooey Model 71 and its really easy, just push a button on the left side of the bolt and out she comes. I found this post on HuntingBC.ca, good luck!
"Most of the Cooey model 60's and 39's were inherently accurate, and yours is likely in Long rifle, but it's tubular magazine will digest shorts, longs or long rifles usually, so start with shorts and move-up. 22short HP,CB long and even plain standard velocity longs are now readily available from CCI so go nuts. If a long rifle does not chamber easily then don't fire-it as the Model 60 has a big firing pin hole that spits brass into your forehead with an objectionable noise. My first rifle was a Model 60 my great-aunt sold my dad for 20.00.
They come-out of the stock easy, and if you must gab the knurled nut with pliers or channel locks, use your belt-end or some other leather or rubber to protect the knurling or else it will look like ####. Ideally, I put them in my 3-jaw lathe-chuck with some shim-stock as most are over-tightened. Why take-it off with a lathe-chuck they asked? Because it was there.
If you want to take the bolt-out, you will need a wrench, but before you do this, note how much clearance there is for the tube to pass the end of the stud as this is critical. It is a 5/16 32 thread and is meant to be fully adjustable. Too loose, and the bolt will cycle right-out of the action, too tight, and it will be scoring and bending the outer tube and may cause sticky operation and feeding. Re-assemble with a reasonable amount of torque as being a yard-ape on the wrench won't so much strip the thread asit will tear-out the dovetail holding-it to the barrel causing a Plethora of problems. Just try cycling the cleaned, unloaded firearm a few times before you put-it in the stock to make sure it's adjusted properly.
No matter what you think you know, or whoever showed you, never single load a model 60. This wil break the teeth on the extractor which is designed strictly for controlled-round feeding. A new one, if you can find-it will end-up costing around 25.00 so don't be a hero. Always make sure this gun is empty, and you see the Fish-bonker shaped magazine follower before you assume it's empty. Cooey's, especially cold ones, have a nasty habit of leaving one in the tube.
There are actually 2 safeties on the model 60, one is the obvious "Safe" and "Lock" when you turn the bolt to uindex into the groove above the boltway, and the other is the "Half-####" notch on the trigger itself. The Safe and Lock groove is safer, but slower, and if you must leave the gun uncocked, you must pull the cocking knob back far enough for the trigger to engage the half-#### notch, otherwise you run a signifigant risk of accidentally discharging the firearm if the back of the cocking piece is struck. Many people have been killed in this manner when they or their partner has slipped and fallen. My father blew a hole in his foot with a model 60 when he was 10 with a .22 short hollowpoint. This was because the gun had a hair trigger from a chipped sear but when my father slipped on the Ice while shooting crows at the dump, the outcome coulda been the same from not using the half-####.
Some of these triggers were over-hardened with brittle sears, and some have had their bolt bottoms and sears ground by amateurs or worse. When the bolt is in, check for half-####. When the bolt is out, look at the underside for wear and toolmarks, and inspect the bolt face for extractor damage,pitting and pin shape and protrusion before reassembly. Check the barrel/chamber-end also for firing pin "dry fire" burring and make sure the clearance pockets that the exctactor lips go into are free of debris, as this is also hard on extractors. The more #### that's there, too, the more #### will fly into your eyed in case-head failure.
I am not saying that they are weak or prone to case-head problems, just that these guns were often shot a lot and with sometimes crappy, sometimes corrosive and often unplated ammo. Many novice or uneducated people may have handled them, and the newest one you will ever see was probably assembled in coburg from parts in about 1981. I have friends with a lot of the parts right from the Cooey plant, but there are a lot of scrapped guns out there, usually from magazine tube loss , stock failure or extractor failure, but never because they were inaccurate. Like most cars, it would never hurt to have a few junkers lying around, but thanks to our fascist , sorry liberal c-68-ers, you'll have to saw the recievers in half, even though most don't have numbers.
I am not on a bandwagon about caseheads, when I was a kid, the Model 60 I had was in great shape with a beautiful barrel and a little surface rust. It came with half-a-dozen boxes of Dominion/Canuck Whiz-Bangs and a lot of them were a little green, but it ate all of them without incidence. They were from the Thirties or Forties. As soon as I was done them, my dad gave me some Canadian Tire money, and I started shooting Imperial copper plated rounds that came in that awful plastic container with the sliding lid that you always had to bang against your hand to get them to come-out. Then you'd be Ice-fishing and the stupid sliding lid would break and the shells'd spill easilly all over the inside of your packsack. Anyways, I'll talk to that designer when I get to hell, along with that guy who decided to put fuel pumps in the fuel tank instead of where they belong, on the side of the block, but that's another story.
I saved-up my money, and bought some "Concorde" hollowpoints in a Brown and grey box. They were cheap, and made in the Phillipines, and I thought they'd be the cat's ass. My best friend was standing next to me shooting a Krag my dad built, and we weren't wearing any plugs. The first Concorde I shot almost brought-us to our knees, the sound was so high -pitched and loud! Iejected the spent round with a little trouble, and looked at the casing. The metal had flowed-back into the firing pin hole and ruptured. Hot powder granules freckled my forehead and we winced at the pain from our ears. I thought it was a fluke, so I chambered another round while my partner lined-up and Ping! It did-it again. It made the High-power rifle he was shooting sound like elevator music. My friend turned to me and said, don't do that again! This time my teeth were sore, and a lttle piece of case was on the surface of my skin. It smarted but didn't bleed. lucky I was wearing glasses!"
"Most of the Cooey model 60's and 39's were inherently accurate, and yours is likely in Long rifle, but it's tubular magazine will digest shorts, longs or long rifles usually, so start with shorts and move-up. 22short HP,CB long and even plain standard velocity longs are now readily available from CCI so go nuts. If a long rifle does not chamber easily then don't fire-it as the Model 60 has a big firing pin hole that spits brass into your forehead with an objectionable noise. My first rifle was a Model 60 my great-aunt sold my dad for 20.00.
They come-out of the stock easy, and if you must gab the knurled nut with pliers or channel locks, use your belt-end or some other leather or rubber to protect the knurling or else it will look like ####. Ideally, I put them in my 3-jaw lathe-chuck with some shim-stock as most are over-tightened. Why take-it off with a lathe-chuck they asked? Because it was there.
If you want to take the bolt-out, you will need a wrench, but before you do this, note how much clearance there is for the tube to pass the end of the stud as this is critical. It is a 5/16 32 thread and is meant to be fully adjustable. Too loose, and the bolt will cycle right-out of the action, too tight, and it will be scoring and bending the outer tube and may cause sticky operation and feeding. Re-assemble with a reasonable amount of torque as being a yard-ape on the wrench won't so much strip the thread asit will tear-out the dovetail holding-it to the barrel causing a Plethora of problems. Just try cycling the cleaned, unloaded firearm a few times before you put-it in the stock to make sure it's adjusted properly.
No matter what you think you know, or whoever showed you, never single load a model 60. This wil break the teeth on the extractor which is designed strictly for controlled-round feeding. A new one, if you can find-it will end-up costing around 25.00 so don't be a hero. Always make sure this gun is empty, and you see the Fish-bonker shaped magazine follower before you assume it's empty. Cooey's, especially cold ones, have a nasty habit of leaving one in the tube.
There are actually 2 safeties on the model 60, one is the obvious "Safe" and "Lock" when you turn the bolt to uindex into the groove above the boltway, and the other is the "Half-####" notch on the trigger itself. The Safe and Lock groove is safer, but slower, and if you must leave the gun uncocked, you must pull the cocking knob back far enough for the trigger to engage the half-#### notch, otherwise you run a signifigant risk of accidentally discharging the firearm if the back of the cocking piece is struck. Many people have been killed in this manner when they or their partner has slipped and fallen. My father blew a hole in his foot with a model 60 when he was 10 with a .22 short hollowpoint. This was because the gun had a hair trigger from a chipped sear but when my father slipped on the Ice while shooting crows at the dump, the outcome coulda been the same from not using the half-####.
Some of these triggers were over-hardened with brittle sears, and some have had their bolt bottoms and sears ground by amateurs or worse. When the bolt is in, check for half-####. When the bolt is out, look at the underside for wear and toolmarks, and inspect the bolt face for extractor damage,pitting and pin shape and protrusion before reassembly. Check the barrel/chamber-end also for firing pin "dry fire" burring and make sure the clearance pockets that the exctactor lips go into are free of debris, as this is also hard on extractors. The more #### that's there, too, the more #### will fly into your eyed in case-head failure.
I am not saying that they are weak or prone to case-head problems, just that these guns were often shot a lot and with sometimes crappy, sometimes corrosive and often unplated ammo. Many novice or uneducated people may have handled them, and the newest one you will ever see was probably assembled in coburg from parts in about 1981. I have friends with a lot of the parts right from the Cooey plant, but there are a lot of scrapped guns out there, usually from magazine tube loss , stock failure or extractor failure, but never because they were inaccurate. Like most cars, it would never hurt to have a few junkers lying around, but thanks to our fascist , sorry liberal c-68-ers, you'll have to saw the recievers in half, even though most don't have numbers.
I am not on a bandwagon about caseheads, when I was a kid, the Model 60 I had was in great shape with a beautiful barrel and a little surface rust. It came with half-a-dozen boxes of Dominion/Canuck Whiz-Bangs and a lot of them were a little green, but it ate all of them without incidence. They were from the Thirties or Forties. As soon as I was done them, my dad gave me some Canadian Tire money, and I started shooting Imperial copper plated rounds that came in that awful plastic container with the sliding lid that you always had to bang against your hand to get them to come-out. Then you'd be Ice-fishing and the stupid sliding lid would break and the shells'd spill easilly all over the inside of your packsack. Anyways, I'll talk to that designer when I get to hell, along with that guy who decided to put fuel pumps in the fuel tank instead of where they belong, on the side of the block, but that's another story.
I saved-up my money, and bought some "Concorde" hollowpoints in a Brown and grey box. They were cheap, and made in the Phillipines, and I thought they'd be the cat's ass. My best friend was standing next to me shooting a Krag my dad built, and we weren't wearing any plugs. The first Concorde I shot almost brought-us to our knees, the sound was so high -pitched and loud! Iejected the spent round with a little trouble, and looked at the casing. The metal had flowed-back into the firing pin hole and ruptured. Hot powder granules freckled my forehead and we winced at the pain from our ears. I thought it was a fluke, so I chambered another round while my partner lined-up and Ping! It did-it again. It made the High-power rifle he was shooting sound like elevator music. My friend turned to me and said, don't do that again! This time my teeth were sore, and a lttle piece of case was on the surface of my skin. It smarted but didn't bleed. lucky I was wearing glasses!"
