I forgot a batch of brass that I was drying in the oven, the wife came along and set the oven to 450. When the oven reached 450 she opened the door and then started calling me names when she saw the brass. My question is, is the brass still ok to use. It did discolour some what.
Cooked my brass
- Thread starter Ragtop
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nowarningshot
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Annealing basically heats necks hot enough to reorient molecules. Makes it more malleable, less brittle and work hardened. Your exposing magnum rifle brass to pressures of 60k cup. The brass should be fine, especially if its pistol brass. If your unsure, try a min load and work up to your established load.
Could be much worse. You could have forgotten brass in the tumbler. So I've been told.��
Could be much worse. You could have forgotten brass in the tumbler. So I've been told.��
Take 1 or 2 of your "cooked" cases and measure the base diameter just above the extractor groove and write it down.
Now reload these cases with your normal load and test fire and measure above the extractor groove again.
If the cases become larger in diameter the brass may have become softer.
NOTE, I do not have any calipers that read in .0001 but most reloaders can measure to .001 and be able to see if the base becomes larger in diameter. If I remember correctly the old ball park measurement was a .001 increase was a sign of over pressure.
Simple Trick for Monitoring Pressure of Your Rifle Reloads
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/tips-and-tricks/simple-trick-monitoring-pressure-your-rifle-reloads
"One of the first rules of handloading is to always follow the approved reload data. The cautious reloader gradually works up to approved maximum loads to ensure his particular gun does not show pressure signs. Generally this is visual observation of the fired shell case head and primer. There is another slick way to check for pressure signs if you are interested.
Using a blade micrometer that measures in ten thousandths (.0001"), new, unfired cases can be gauged before and after firing to determine reasonably accurate maximum loads. Micrometers measuring in thousandths (.001") are insufficiently accurate to perform these measurements, and should not be used. Previously fired cases cannot be used accurately due to various levels of brass hardening. Measurement is taken just ahead of the extractor groove on the case head and must be taken at the same place on the case before and after firing. By placing a small mark on the case head – entering the cartridge in the chamber with mark at 12 o’clock – a consistently accurate measurement can be taken with each firing.
Lower pressure rounds, like the .30-30 Winchester, usually yield maximum pressures at .0003"-.0004" expansion. Modern cartridges, like the .223 Remington, will show maximum pressure at .0004"-.0005", while .308 Winchester, .270 Winchester, etc., typically yield .0005"-.0006" expansion at max pressure. Magnums, like the .300 Winchester Magnum, show maximums at .0006”-.0007” expansion, and should be measured on the belt.
In conjunction with these measurements, case head signs of pressure should be monitored as well. These signs include very flat primers, slightly cratered primers, ejector marks on the case head, and stiff extraction. All these case head signs indicate high pressure, and loads should be reduced until these signs disappear.
As always, start with the beginning load listed, and cautiously work up to the maximum shown for that set of components, using the methods listed herein."
Now reload these cases with your normal load and test fire and measure above the extractor groove again.
If the cases become larger in diameter the brass may have become softer.
NOTE, I do not have any calipers that read in .0001 but most reloaders can measure to .001 and be able to see if the base becomes larger in diameter. If I remember correctly the old ball park measurement was a .001 increase was a sign of over pressure.
Simple Trick for Monitoring Pressure of Your Rifle Reloads
http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/reloading-education/tips-and-tricks/simple-trick-monitoring-pressure-your-rifle-reloads
"One of the first rules of handloading is to always follow the approved reload data. The cautious reloader gradually works up to approved maximum loads to ensure his particular gun does not show pressure signs. Generally this is visual observation of the fired shell case head and primer. There is another slick way to check for pressure signs if you are interested.
Using a blade micrometer that measures in ten thousandths (.0001"), new, unfired cases can be gauged before and after firing to determine reasonably accurate maximum loads. Micrometers measuring in thousandths (.001") are insufficiently accurate to perform these measurements, and should not be used. Previously fired cases cannot be used accurately due to various levels of brass hardening. Measurement is taken just ahead of the extractor groove on the case head and must be taken at the same place on the case before and after firing. By placing a small mark on the case head – entering the cartridge in the chamber with mark at 12 o’clock – a consistently accurate measurement can be taken with each firing.
Lower pressure rounds, like the .30-30 Winchester, usually yield maximum pressures at .0003"-.0004" expansion. Modern cartridges, like the .223 Remington, will show maximum pressure at .0004"-.0005", while .308 Winchester, .270 Winchester, etc., typically yield .0005"-.0006" expansion at max pressure. Magnums, like the .300 Winchester Magnum, show maximums at .0006”-.0007” expansion, and should be measured on the belt.
In conjunction with these measurements, case head signs of pressure should be monitored as well. These signs include very flat primers, slightly cratered primers, ejector marks on the case head, and stiff extraction. All these case head signs indicate high pressure, and loads should be reduced until these signs disappear.
As always, start with the beginning load listed, and cautiously work up to the maximum shown for that set of components, using the methods listed herein."
BattleRife
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The temperature he achieved is not high enough to affect the neck, which was been locally annealed at much higher temperatures at the factory. That does not mean it would not affect the head, which has been left in a relatively hard state.
The heads of cases however are however typically annealed after the final draw, at low temperature, to relieve internal stresses. This is usually done at something like 475°F so as to avoid any softening. As long as you stayed below that last annealing temperature your brass should be okay, but that can be a little tricky to assure. Household oven thermostats aren't all that accurate, and if your oven is electric the radiant elements can heat surfaces to higher than the ambient temperature, just as the sun can heat surfaces to melt ice even with the air temperature well below zero.
The heads of cases however are however typically annealed after the final draw, at low temperature, to relieve internal stresses. This is usually done at something like 475°F so as to avoid any softening. As long as you stayed below that last annealing temperature your brass should be okay, but that can be a little tricky to assure. Household oven thermostats aren't all that accurate, and if your oven is electric the radiant elements can heat surfaces to higher than the ambient temperature, just as the sun can heat surfaces to melt ice even with the air temperature well below zero.
That's what i would do.
