Cool down of the barrel when trying out some new loads?

Stevebot-7 said:
Most people are concerned with the barrel heating up and causing their groupings to open up and migrate.
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I've start thinking that it can be the inverse result that heat buildup effect is doing to my rifle. Maybe it's my skills that getting better after 5-6 shots, but my first shots are'nt never so good.

I wait around 1 minute between shots, after 5 shots (a load test) I go walk 100 yards to see the target and put another one, writing results and infos and then go back to my shooting stand. Event after this, I can't stand my hand on my rifle... And this is not because I have smooth lady hands! ;) I use to weld, do mechanics and metal construction, and I can handle hot pieces more that usual people...

Maybe I should bring more rifles to shoot, but then I will cost more ammo. (but bring more fun ;) )

Thanks for yall inputs!

Dark
 
I've start thinking that it can be the inverse result that heat buildup effect is doing to my rifle. Maybe it's my skills that getting better after 5-6 shots, but my first shots are'nt never so good.
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Or maybe the barrel is just getting dirty enough to shoot well.
 
Hey, when I took my first rifle out for the first time I did something like 99 shots in an hour. By the end of it my group size was 6" smaller than when it started. Increased familiarity will do a whole lot to offset any changes in point of impact, especially if you get familiar enough to anticipate the changes.
 
I hate shooting in hot weather but when I do shoot more then a quick group or two I take a foot pump along used for blowing up an air mattress. Works for me.
 
I was thinking the other day to use one of those battery operated air-mattress-pumps to cool the bore.
Shouldn't be too difficult to put a hose on that.
 
Well - the trick is to have the barrel temp become the same from shot to shot, whatever the temperature is. If you start with a cold barrel, you have two or three shots to get it warm. The frequency of shooting determines the "equilibrium" temperature the barrel reaches. If you change the frequency, or take a break, the equilibirium temp changes.
For my purposes, I shoot at 100 y. I take two or three shots in rapid succession as warm up shots (for me too). This also tells me if the shots creep after the cold bore shot. After that I walk the target after each shot, with the rifle stored vertically, to employ the "stack effect" - this method works very well, bringing the barrel down the wrist temperature. I don't try to get the barrel back to ambient - almost impossible, time wise, unless you have some artificial means of cooling - moreover, I don't see the point of trying to get the barrel stone cold for each shot.
 
cosmic said:
- this method works very well, bringing the barrel down the wrist temperature. I don't try to get the barrel back to ambient - almost impossible, time wise, unless you have some artificial means of cooling - moreover, I don't see the point of trying to get the barrel stone cold for each shot.
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This is my understanding too, that a heated (within reason) barrel is fine but continued firing through a hot barrel does damage / shortens barrel life. That about right ?
 
I test at 300 yds, so by the time I've taken the shot, put the rifle down, got in the car, driven up to the target, marked the shot, driven back and got comfy enough for the next shot, 5 minutes have passed. Barrel is still quite warm, but not hot. Maybe I should be grateful I don't have a camera system for the target? :D
 
I use a Rechargeable Air Mattress Pump to blow air through the barrel - cost me about $40.

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I've heard of guys using compressed air, like the ones you get for keyboards and such. Should work ok I'd think but never tried it, I usually set aside an afternoon and bring 2-3 and a 17 or 22.
There is some spray on burn spray that might work too, I know it's really cold in your skin! Not sure what's in it, might have to be patched out after.
 
At most drug stores or rehab shops you can buy cool bags that are beads and not gel so they are not damp and will not sweat as they have a cloth outer bag keep it in the freezer and take it to the range in a cooler. They come in all sizes
 
rnbra-shooter said:
If you put the rifle in a vertical position (e.g. in a gun rack or leaned up against a bench) with the bolt open, the warm/hot barrel acts like a chimney and induces an upward draft. So in addition to being cooled by the air outside the barrel, it is also cooled by the air current inside the barrel (so it cools a bit quicker).
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This works. Little easier than dragging C3 bottles, air compressors and whatever else to the range.
 
rnbra-shooter said:
If you put the rifle in a vertical position (e.g. in a gun rack or leaned up against a bench) with the bolt open, the warm/hot barrel acts like a chimney and induces an upward draft. So in addition to being cooled by the air outside the barrel, it is also cooled by the air current inside the barrel (so it cools a bit quicker).
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This is key! Cuts cooling time by 50% I bet.
 
When shooting 223, I just wait about 2-3 mins between shots. I need to watch my cellphone to stick to it. You can take notes as to your grouping etc during load development. If you shoot round robin groups, that will even out the barrel warming to not bias a group. If I shoot 4-8 5 shot groups at 2-3 minutes a shot, any barrel warming is just another factor in the shooting. I'm not going to spend hours on one group waiting for my barrel getting down to ambient. I just accept it's what me and my rifle can shoot.

You could take a 22 like others have mentioned.
 
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