Copper plating lead bullets

John Y Cannuck

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I found the following over at GBO, and I figured you guys mike be interested.
Post: http://w ww.go2gbo.com/forums/index.php?board=45.0

Repeating a set up I made many years ago I put this together recently. Some changes I made and will make from the video. I used about 3 times as much copper sulfate, I added some battery acid, and I need to punch or drill more holes in the tumbling bucket. I also need to add an aquarium heater to warm up the solution, and a better power supply than an old battery charger. It is too slow.

Well, my video must be too big as it didn't show up. I'll work on it. The video was 1600 KB in size and could only be 1024. I'll trim it down and get back to you guys interested in the plating project. I wasn't able to get a movie to load so here are some pictures. What is nor shown is the 'sacrificial' copper anode that is a grid or mesh of copper wire at the bottom of the Copper Sulfate solution. This is hooked to the + side of a good high amperage battery charger. The wire gets eaten up as the copper gets deposited on the bullets.

I wrote this rather long winded description a few years ago:
I've copper plated bullets using a automobile battery charger, Copper Sulfate (Bluestone Root killer), a square plastic bucket, a BBQ rotisserie motor and shaft, scrap copper wire, and a few pieces of carbon from a battery or starter brushes. You need to rotate the bullets in the plating solution or they grow little wires (dendrites) that make them rough and lumpy. Set up a plastic bucket with a lid on the shaft of the old BBQ rotisserie, using the adjustable prongs to center it and hold it. Pre-drill a few dozen or more holes in the bucket; the more the better. Don't make them bigger than the bullets. I used a bucket that premixed wall board 'mud' came in. The bucket has to be small enough so the motor can rotate it, when it's loaded up with bullets. The bullets go in the bucket, which rotates on the rotisserie shaft, which is supported by a short piece of copper pipe soldered or clamped to the square rotisserie shaft. The copper / shaft rotates on a piece of graphite or starter brush on one side of the bucket, providing a bearing surface and electrical connection to the NEG - MINUS side of the battery charger. The other end of the shaft goes in the rotisserie motor. The solution is distilled water with a handful of copper sulfate ( experiment! ), deep enough to submerge the bullets while it rotates. The other battery cable connection goes to a web of copper wires (scrap wire with the insulation cut off) positioned on the bottom of the square bucket to clear the bucket as it rotates. As the current flows copper will plate onto the rotating bullets and the prongs. Copper from the wires on the bottom will dissolve into the solution to replace what is plated out these are connected to the + POS side of the charger. The wires in the bottom will get thinner as they are eaten away. You can adjust the temperature, the charger setting, the concentration of the solution, and the distance between the wires on the bottom and the bullets. The last time I did it, over 25 years ago, the bullets (.429 SWC straight wheel weights) plated to a red copper color which I couldn't dent with my fingernail, and stayed on the bullet pieces after it went through an old RR tie. The finish is not real shiny, but rather red , hard, and rough. The tumbling in the bucket puts a lot of tiny dents in the surface. After the plating, I washed them real good a few times,dried, then lubrisized them with Alox /Beeswax. As to the toxicity of the solution, it's legal to dump the copper sulfate solution into the sewer, or they wouldn't sell it for that. The solution is reusable, as the copper is replenished by the wires in the bottom. Just pour it into a safe plastic container. Store it away from kids, and wear rubber gloves, as it is poison. There are many things that could improve the plating, and make it look better, but this simple process does work, and is a starting point. If the bullets are lubrisized they should be the correct diameter. You will have to check the weight.


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tumberler mounted.jpg (20.85 KB, 320x240 - viewed 4 times.)

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having worked in a plating shop for the last 5 years, i would suggest finding a source for copper cyanide as opposed to using copper sulfate as the cyanide solution will give you a much more even finish and will seal the lead better then the copper sulfate.

you could also just take your bullets to a plating shop and tell them to copper strike them for you, it would prolly be fairly cheap ( we would do about 500 rounds for under 30 bucks) and then you dont have nasty chemicals sitting in your garage....
 
having worked in a plating shop for the last 5 years, i would suggest finding a source for copper cyanide as opposed to using copper sulfate as the cyanide solution will give you a much more even finish and will seal the lead better then the copper sulfate.

you could also just take your bullets to a plating shop and tell them to copper strike them for you, it would prolly be fairly cheap ( we would do about 500 rounds for under 30 bucks) and then you dont have nasty chemicals sitting in your garage....


True, but, at the above price, of about 17 cents each, you would lose all the fun of frigging around with this setup, and the enjoyment of shooting stuff you made yourself. I'm sure the guys here will have lots of ideas on how to do it better.
Cast bullet shooters are all about experimenting, and learning new stuff, it's part of the enjoyment of casting. Besides, we're cheap. (Well some of us). :D
 
I was of the understanding that bullets meant for copper plating had to be cast .003" undersize and most common molds will not accommodate this. That is why NEI for one, make special molds for copper plating.
 
I was of the understanding that bullets meant for copper plating had to be cast .003" undersize and most common molds will not accommodate this. That is why NEI for one, make special molds for copper plating.
Interesting comment Ben.
As I've not tried it, I don't know how thick the resulting coating might be.
I suppose that you could size bullets down, and then plate them back to size as well.
Bullets that didn't shoot well before, might shoot better when plated. Or worse of course, it's another area a guy could play with.
I know from sizing jacketed rounds that these plated rounds could be sized after plating as well.
What that would do to the plating is anyone's guess.
 
Average thickness of plating is 3 or 4 thousands like Ben said... you need specialized moulds that will run more then 300 dollars for a 2 cavity set.
 
Average thickness of plating is 3 or 4 thousands like Ben said... you need specialized moulds that will run more then 300 dollars for a 2 cavity set.

Not really.
If for example I ran my 44 cal bullets through my .427 sizing die for the 44-40, then plated them, I could use them for the 44 Mag, or, maybe, I could lube them, and run them through again for .427.
Yes, that might start other issues, but it might not too.
 
You have 44 molds with no lube groves on them?
There are specific molds used for makeing plated bullets they are smooth.
Plated bullets do not require any lube.
 
MSG is right, the special molds that I have seen for copper plating are smooth, and approx. .003" undersized, the finished bullet would look like a jacketed bullet, in theory, with no grooves, I can't comment on how they would work compared to sized, grooved bullets that have the copper applied.
 
You have 44 molds with no lube groves on them?
There are specific molds used for makeing plated bullets they are smooth.
Plated bullets do not require any lube.

No, my .427 bullets are grooved, they are designed for the 44-40, which has a nominally smaller bore size than the 44 Mag.

I agree that the un-grooved bullets would be best however, grooved bullets should shoot reasonably well, and would still require no lube.

I've got to find the time to try this.

Got most of the stuff in the garage anyway.
 
I am sure your lube groove bullets could be plated and they should work, because lots of bullets have small groves in them for crimping/cannalure..

Most of my cast lead bullets can be shot at moderate velocities without lube or leading.

After all the aggrivation is it really worth it?
 
I was of the understanding that bullets meant for copper plating had to be cast .003" undersize and most common molds will not accommodate this. That is why NEI for one, make special molds for copper plating.


Just buy any Lee mold, they are usually 2 to 3 thou under what you need anyway, LOL.

Like Drew said, really what is the point. With the right lead alloy and heat treating I have pushed lead bullets to the same speed as copper plated without all the mess and fuss of copper plating them.

On the other hand I can see doing it for the simple knowledge of being able to do it, we casters are an inventive bunch and love to experiment.
 
I been thinking of doing it with 55 grain .224 but to get the company to make a specialized mold its pretty pricy and there is the chance that it wont work... I am thinking to drive bullets at FMJ veloicties its going to have to be plated to 5 thousands thickness.

I am just sticking to good old cast and lube... just finished a batch of 44's and starting to size and lube them.
 
Lee will make you a fully custom 6 cavity mold for $100 setup + $50 for the mold. Additional molds are an additional $50 each.

I remember a web site that had a detailed procedure for adjusting/cleaning up Lee molds so that they would work really well.
 
Lee will make you a fully custom 6 cavity mold for $100 setup + $50 for the mold. Additional molds are an additional $50 each.

I remember a web site that had a detailed procedure for adjusting/cleaning up Lee molds so that they would work really well.


lee molds dont work on my magma equiptment :D
 
If it works, and it's free, and it fills some spare time I might have this winter. Why not try it?
Might even shoot better than lubed bullets for all I know.

Might want to check into how much the copper plateing agent costs I bet is not cheap...

I bookmarked this post because I too want to try it when I have some spare time...
 
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