Copper scrubber for removing lead build up?

Trinimon

Trinimon

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I've been shooting some soft lead pills in some of my pistols and notice I get a bit of build up at the end of the day. I was looking up techniques on removing lead and found that a bit of shooters are using 100% copper scrubbing pads, ripping some off and wrapping it around and old brush and using that to scrub their barrels. They all say it works amazingly well at removing lead. Does anyone here use this technique?

I've used all sorts of solvents to try and remove the lead build up but it all ends up to be the same amount of effort/elbow grease to get rid of most of it. I'm looking at giving this technique a try.

I've gone to several dollar stores, Canadian Tire etc and can't find 100% copper scrubbers. I thought I found some at a Dollarama but it turns out it is copper washed steel after checking it with a magnet! Glad I only bought 1. Anyone got a source?
 
the copper pad works well , just be sure it's 100% copper & not plated steel . also checkout " lewis delead kit " brownells has it . same idea as the scrubber pad , a little better maybe but a lot more $ .
 
Try to get the Chor Boy brand. I have had good results from them. Found a bunch in Great Canadian Superstore a while back, still using them.
I have a Lewis kit but the chor boy works as well and better in revolver cylinders.
 
Awesome. Haven't seen anyone talk about using copper scrubbing pads on CGN before. I tried looking for Chore Boy at the local Wallymart but don't think the Canadian stores carry 'em. Thanks for the potential sources!
 
I have been preaching this for years. Being a revolver fan and a reloader I have my share of experience with lead and it really is the best and most economical method.
 
I use the copper pads on brushes for any lead buildup and when I deal with an old milsurp I break out the ED'S RED! (google it). I have tried the mercury 'cure' but to be honest it didn't do a thing. For ridiculous fouling you can make a homemade foul-out system with household chemicals, a brass cleaning rod and a cellphone adapter. Read up on it thoroughly. I had to use it once and sure enough it works amazingly well but the downside is that once you clean down to the steel bore surface is easy to start eating away at the steel. I'll only use this method as a last resort. NOTE: pay attention when hooking up the leads anode (brass rod) cathode (barrel).
 
I just finished cleaning my Victory model .38 S&W, and found that the Lewis Lead Remover just wasn't touching the lead buildup in the forcing cone. The only way I got it out was to use a dental pick. I was worried about scratching the steel, but I needn't have- it got the lead out and maybe now the Lewis Lead remover might work on the new leading, provided I keep up the regular cleaning.

I also had a kind of carbon buildup in the cylinder, in the area where the brass case sits, not forward where the projectile is. Again, the Lewis lead remover just wasn't touching the stuff. Only by using the dental pick was I able to remove the buildup, which wasn't an even smear of stuff, but small irregularly shaped blotches of buildup. Enough buildup that ejecting the brass was becoming quite difficult.

As much as I'm leery of using steel on steel, the dental pick works where the LLR didn't, and left no scratches. Brass ejects just fine now.

London Drugs sells these kits cheaply: you get a pretty-much-useless tiny mirror, a dental scraper, and a dental pick.
 
Bronze wool is available from boat suppliers, wrap it around a brush to get a tight fit, use it with JB or Rem Clean or KG-2. Clean chambers with the same powered by your battery drill.
 
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