RossRifleNut
Member
I recently made some 6.5 jap for a type 38 arisaka I was given a while ago, the rifle looks great on the outside: blueing has got be be 99% with no major dings in the stock. In my ignorance I thought the bore looked frosty but better than my Ross which is a tack driver.
Found out it lands shots in about a 9m² area at 100 yards, I couldn't get one shot on paper. Initially I thought it might be a problem with my handloads but upon closer inspection the last inch or so of the mussel is completely burnt out but the rest of the rifling looks ok.
I've got an SMLE in similar (but not as bad) Condition that keyholes but will at least group on paper with 180 grain bullets.
I wonder if getting either of these guns counterbored by a gunsmith could make them shootable or would they never really be a decent guns to shoot?
Has anyone attempted counterboring a shot out milsurp and what was the result?
Found out it lands shots in about a 9m² area at 100 yards, I couldn't get one shot on paper. Initially I thought it might be a problem with my handloads but upon closer inspection the last inch or so of the mussel is completely burnt out but the rest of the rifling looks ok.
I've got an SMLE in similar (but not as bad) Condition that keyholes but will at least group on paper with 180 grain bullets.
I wonder if getting either of these guns counterbored by a gunsmith could make them shootable or would they never really be a decent guns to shoot?
Has anyone attempted counterboring a shot out milsurp and what was the result?


















































