couple questions about japan dryer and cica 1850 tung&teak oil.

L

leadchucker62

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good day all:
since i cant get tru-oil anymore.
i tought i would try circa 1850 tung&teak oil on an old savage stock i've just finished checkering and want to finish up.
i have never used this product,so i need some assistance,
how to put this on the stock,(fingers,brush, rag,etc)
how many coats?
how long between coats?
if it's a long time between coats,can japan drier be added to speed it up?
what ratio of japan drier to oil?
any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks Z
 
I see Lee Valley has Tru-Oil on the American site, but they don't carry it in their Halifax store, or Canadian catalogue, as of spring 2011. I have been told that Birchwood casey will be making changes to their labelling and will be able to sell it again in Canada soon. I managed to find a bit of old stock to hoard before the nonsense.

I got this from some unremembered site, this is presumably from the MSDS for it...

Tru-oil is…

-56 % mineral spirits
-33% proprietary modified oil (a varnish?)
-11% proprietary linseed oil

Minwax Antique Oil is something I often see suggested on the internet as an alternative to Tru-oil. It's alot cheaper, at Kent Building Supplies for $15.99 for 946 ml; it has Linseed oil, thinners, and an alkyd varnish compound, same as Tru-oil, and is reported to be durable and water-resistant. I have a container, and will be trying it soon.

I think we will be able to get Tru-oil again, though. Eventually.
 
Lee Valley sells a product called "Polymerized Tung Oil". I've been using it for a bunch of firearms stock finishing and it's proving to be highly water resistant and builds to a nice enough finish in 3 coats and a great finish in about 5. In the summer you can re-coat in 24 hours if the oiled wood is left in the direct sun and it's warm. In winter some stock pieces that I did 3 days ago are just now ready for the next coat.

I would suggest that since you want the oil finish to last for a lot of years that you practice a touch of patience during the finishing process and simply wait the 3'ish days for the oil to cure. Or if you want to push it a little put the oiled wood under some close spaced "bright white" flourescents and keep the area warm. That'll simulate summer well enough that you should be able to recoat in 24 hours.
 
I was using Circa 1850 Tung &Teak oil to apply to gun stocks but it seemed very thin and to contain a lot of solvent, so I bought straight unpolymerized Tung oil from Lee Valley and mixed that half and half with the Tung&Teak oil. The result was thicker that the tung and teak and thinner than the tung. Perfect, I thought.

The first few applications worked really well, so I thought I would do more layers. I did and thought it was soaking in well, leaving a dull but oiled looking finish on my two Husqvarna rifles. I left them for a month or so then when hunting season appeared, I dug them out and they were now kind of spotty, portions of the stock on each rifle had a dull soaked in oil finish look but there bright shiny patches where the oil had saturated the wood I suppose, and had dried on like varnish.

So they are both kind of spotty now, not nice to look at, but boy do they resist water!

I wonder what I can do to take off that shiny layer?
 
MD said:
I was using Circa 1850 Tung &Teak oil to apply to gun stocks but it seemed very thin and to contain a lot of solvent, so I bought straight unpolymerized Tung oil from Lee Valley and mixed that half and half with the Tung&Teak oil. The result was thicker that the tung and teak and thinner than the tung. Perfect, I thought.

The first few applications worked really well, so I thought I would do more layers. I did and thought it was soaking in well, leaving a dull but oiled looking finish on my two Husqvarna rifles. I left them for a month or so then when hunting season appeared, I dug them out and they were now kind of spotty, portions of the stock on each rifle had a dull soaked in oil finish look but there bright shiny patches where the oil had saturated the wood I suppose, and had dried on like varnish.

So they are both kind of spotty now, not nice to look at, but boy do they resist water!

I wonder what I can do to take off that shiny layer?
Click to expand...

Using 400 grit wet/dry paper - wet sand it with the same finish you used... wipe dry when done...
 
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