Cracked stock fix?

J

johnsamp

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Please do not ask for pictures, as it's beyond my ability...

Its a rough single shot butt stock with three bad cracks. Whats the best way to make it serviceable?

Boil years of oil out of it, dry and then glue?

Maybe complete the cracks with a clean break, then epoxy? Fiberglass tape?

Replacement stocks are not readily available,(Baikal), and it just needs to be solid.

Thanks for your time,
John
 
How is it cracked? Could you run a dowel(s) through to stengthen the stock? You could use a blade to gouge out and deepen the cracks and fill them with Acraglass, and clamp it, if looks don't matter
 
In the past, I've gone to Boyd's or others for a new stock, but around here the Baikal stock replacement is hard to find.
As I see it the oil need to be removed from the stock before attempting to re-glue. Turpentine? Lacquer thinner? Boil in water?
Maybe the dowel way is what needs to be done, after clearing out the oils? Looks are not of concern.
Thank you for your time,
John
 
johnsamp said:
In the past, I've gone to Boyd's or others for a new stock, but around here the Baikal stock replacement is hard to find.
As I see it the oil need to be removed from the stock before attempting to re-glue. Turpentine? Lacquer thinner? Boil in water?
Maybe the dowel way is what needs to be done, after clearing out the oils? Looks are not of concern.
Thank you for your time,
John
Click to expand...

Where are the cracks - along the grain or across the grain? On the buttstock or the fore end? Are they very deep cracks?
 
Oil needs to be removed by soaking the stock in acetone... then spreading the cracks and getting glue worked in as far as you can, clamp it tight enough to close the cracks and let it sit overnight... then sanding and finish...
 
I use acetone and lacquer thinner for removing oil from wood. Then as above, spread the crack, glue, and clamp. Electrical tape stretches and works good for clamping awkward shapes. Good luck.
Kristian
 
Are the cracks longitudinal or against the grain? If they are across the grain, there is a chance the wood may have dry rot. Giving advice without pictures is really hard. Do you have a friend, or family, that could post the pix for you? Just upload the pix to photobucket, or some such program, and paste the URL. Do you know how to send pix by E-Mail? If so, PM me, I'll give you my address, and you can send them to me. Only thing is, I'm leaving for hunt camp:) in the morning, so I don't know when I'll be able to get back to you.
 
Thin wood glue 5% with water and gently heat a syringe in a water bath. Toothpicks to spread cracks and thread sometimes to work it in. 2x on electrical tape. Tbh for beaters sometimes the tape never comes off
 
Every once in a while someone brings in a used and abused low value firearm that they want to work. They don't care how it looks as long as it shoots reasonably well. Now just because the firearm is cheap doesn't mean it isn't functional.

This is what I do.

I take the stock off the rifle and degrease it. Then coarse sand the surface and in nasty cracks I drill holes. Next, I squirt Super Glue into as many cracks as seem to need it. That stuff creeps into the tiniest cracks.

Day two, I mix up a small batch of the same resin used for fiber glass. Then with a brush I thinly coat the stock. Often this is enough. If the cracks are more serious I will coarse sand the first coat and apply another coat of resin mixed with Floc and stain. Sand smooth and apply a very thin coat of clear coat.

An old beater can be dressed up to be functional and look pretty good if you want to spend the time. If not, just sand it to where you are OK with it and use it.
 
I have a crack in a M44 stock longitudinal at the rear of the reciever. Had a hell of a time finding acryglass and brass pin in ontario/canada short of ordering from USA brownells.
Supply source? Lee valley rep tells me nothing in there wood specialty store is similar?? I think there just afraid when I showed them a pic of what I was fixing, surely they carry something
 
mbogo3 said:
No one uses glass bedding over wood glue? Brass pins? Harold
Click to expand...

I do if I'm looking for a very sturdy quick and dirty fix on a cheap rifle that is going to get beat to hell anyway. Especially if I don't want it coming back again. Folks with such rifles usually can't afford to pay for a fix so it gets done in a lasting manner.

I use the automotive type fiberglass kits from Canadian Tire. About half the price of Acraglas and every bit as effective.
 
mbogo3 said:
Anything worth fixing ,is worth fixing once correctly.
Click to expand...

Well I look at it this way. Often such rifles are IMHO parts rifles. Their owners are pressed for cash or just downright cheap. They don't care what they look like as long as they're safe. As an example johnsamp.

He doesn't give two hoots about what you or I would consider correctly. He just wants it to work.

I sincerely doubt he would be willing to completely strip down and refinish the rifle and I am certain he wouldn't be willing to pay to get it done.
 
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