I've a Rem model 31 pump rifle, and there are some fine cracks where the head of the buttstock bolts up to the trigger half of the receiver. What sort of glue can I use for these fine cracks? I'll need to slightly expand the cracks to use a syringe or something to get the glue in. Thanks all.
Cracks in a wooden stock - what glue?
- Thread starter Grouse Man
- Start date
It is hard to beat Acra Glass without the floc added. If you thin it and warm it slightly it will flow through a syringe more readily. If you can drill into the crack where it doesn't show you can use a fine wire drill that is just a smidge smaller than the syringe so you can jam the syringe into the hole and get as much hand pressure as you can on the syringe for as long as you can push. If glue starts to ooze out the crack you've won.
Another method I have used is to drill a hole(size of hole depending on the size of crack) into the crack, pour some accraglass into the hole, then tap a wooden dowel into the hole. It will hydraulic the epoxy out of the crack. If at all possible, drill in an inconspicuous portion of the stock. Should not be hard to do on your described stock. Put a rubber band around the crack to close it up.
Gorilla Glue is a great glue but a little more difficult to use since the glue will actually expand to fill the gaps and might ooze out, as a bonus it can be bought at Canadian Tire. Acraglass, LePage Epoxy are also very good for larger gaps.
bigbull
bigbull
Flash, get it at hobby shops. It is like crazy glue but will work on wood where a bit of oil may be present. It was dsigned to be used on model airplanes etc. I think it comes with a needle tip or you can screw one on the bottle.
http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=NHP311
Advice... also get the flashback debonder, I once glued my hand to a stock, the debonder had no effect on the finish.
http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=NHP311
Advice... also get the flashback debonder, I once glued my hand to a stock, the debonder had no effect on the finish.
Best Epoxy Or Glue To Repair Stock? Should It Be Reinforced?
Which kind of glue or epoxy would you use to put a toe on the butt stock?
It is a hardwood stock and a sliver came off the toe section. It is clean without any oil or grease on the piece of wood.
Would you reinforce it with some sort of metal screw or just rely on the epoxy or glue to hold it?
Flash
Acraglass
Le Page Epoxy
Gorilla Glue
Which kind of glue or epoxy would you use to put a toe on the butt stock?
It is a hardwood stock and a sliver came off the toe section. It is clean without any oil or grease on the piece of wood.
Would you reinforce it with some sort of metal screw or just rely on the epoxy or glue to hold it?
Flash
Acraglass
Le Page Epoxy
Gorilla Glue
albayo; how big a sliver? I like to fit a couple of blind hardwood dowels in larger toe separations as they help to prevent re-separation in event of impacts and also maintain alignment when clamping. A bit of fuss to fit them right but sure beat any visible screw re-inforce. That said a really good glue joint should be as strong as most woods were originally and if the piece is small that may be the best you can do.
Repair Of Stock Toe
The sliver is about 45mm long and 6mm deep. I don't think there is enough wood depth to put a wooden dowel in it.
But there is a possibility I could put a brass or small screw or something like that to reinforce it. I have some of the small brass rods that were used to reinforce Enfield stocks but not sure how to prep the stock to insert them.
The sliver is about 45mm long and 6mm deep. I don't think there is enough wood depth to put a wooden dowel in it.
But there is a possibility I could put a brass or small screw or something like that to reinforce it. I have some of the small brass rods that were used to reinforce Enfield stocks but not sure how to prep the stock to insert them.
Forget the screw, it will actually weaken a small piece of wood like you described by punching a hole through it, and quite possibly split it as well. Epoxy joint will be stronger than the original wood was.
BigUglyMan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Scotland
I would use a good 2 part epoxy with a thinner to make it flow better through the syringe. I have a guitar that needed the neck resecured thanks to some exuberant baggage handlers. Now it's as good, or possibly better, than new
To the first question I would use Cyano. The main issue with cracks is whether any glue gets into them. Sometimes you can work them or use a vac to suck glue in, but Cyano will just pour into the crack. It also doesn't seem to back at blocking itself, so it doesn't build a dam against further penetration. Hot stuff from Lee Valley (lots of other place also), the watery thin stuff is the ticket. just keep pouring it in until it backs up. You can often make a crack invizible with the stuff by polishing off with some fine sandpaper, but that is a slightly more advanced process. There are lots of other Cyanos that would work but hot stuff is the right cositancy and flashes the right way.
For regluing a clean sliver even white glue is just fine. Try fititng it in there a few times before you do it for real. Cyano is good if the stuff you use won't flash too fast. Good epoxy is also just fine, but most of the metal tube stuff is too thick to guarantee a perfect glue line. Cyano is nice because sometime you can insert the piece and wick the glue in there which pretty much gurantees you have the right fit.
For regluing a clean sliver even white glue is just fine. Try fititng it in there a few times before you do it for real. Cyano is good if the stuff you use won't flash too fast. Good epoxy is also just fine, but most of the metal tube stuff is too thick to guarantee a perfect glue line. Cyano is nice because sometime you can insert the piece and wick the glue in there which pretty much gurantees you have the right fit.
Or use a Cyano debonder and just wipe the excess away after it cures (like in 10 seconds)
