Crimping question for 38/357

mb5200

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In the books I have read it says to crimp as needed. How do I know if it is needed? I haven't started reloading them yet but plan to in the next few days. I am loading for a revolver for now and maybe a lever soon.
 
If the bullets 'jump" in the remaining cartridges in the cylinder after firing, then you need more crimping. I'd crimp all revolver rounds, or levergun loads. The bullet "jump" problem could/will tie up your cylinder, after that you will crimp!
 
The crimp tightness can make a difference in the accuracy. I have not been working with accuaracy too much with my 38 and 357 loads, but one guy I shoot with will find a load that seems to work and then start working on the crimp. I had a 375 H&H loads that worked fairly well, but once I used a Le factory crimp die on it, the groups dropped in size by a good 33%.

If you are loading for the lever also, make sure the crimp is fairly tight; if it is not (especially with a 357 laod), it may start pushing the bullet back into the case which can spike your pressures. Also, if the crimp is not tight enough, the case motuh may catch and cause feeding issues (learned from personal experience). One way I test the crimp for my lever loads is with a kintetic bullets puller (hammer type). I will place the crimp I want, and then pull the bullet; if it comes out easy, I crimp it tighter until it takes some force to dislodge it.
 
What kind of bullets are u planning on loading? Extreme care needs to be taken if loading a plated bullet as a heavy roll crimp will actually break the surface of the plating, causing separation. You wont have that problem with lead or true jacketed bullets.
dB
 
just crimp them and you can forget about your worrys,its no extra work if you have the right crimp&seating die ,you just have to set it up right.

I'll go one step further, ;) you have to crimp enough to remove the belling anyways, it's just a slight adjustment passed that to acheive a moderate crimp. So as mooseman states, just crimp them.
 
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