Cross bolt, or pinning , when do you do it?

Levi Garrett

Levi Garrett

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Was wondering at what point would you place cross bolts in the stock, I figure just before you get finer than 100 grit. Your input would be great, also what method is best, and what caps , price etc. Would be looking for 3 of them, 1 for the front lug on the 06 stock, and 2 for the 375 H&H stock.
Got 2 Claro Walnut semi inlet stocks in the making, Exhibitian Grade.:shotgun:
500668_wc416t_leh_01m.jpg

Any photos of your work, would also be great.
 
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Use an internal cross bolt... here is a picture of a repair I am working on... I have made slots across the wood, front and rear. I will now place threaded rods in these slots and pour acraglass in them. Then I will glass bed the action after.
It is a much easier and neater way than external bolts.

cross%20bolt%201.JPG
 
Oh ya, gonna do that for sure, awesome notion !!! Thanks man, I was worried about the whole deal, now I feel much better, as this wood is going to be pretty special. :bigHug: ;)
In the back there, would you bend it, or multi pieces? , and is the t in front required, or just straight rod , stainless? I guess. 1/8 inch?
 
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Not to speak for Dennis, but I suspect he will thread a nut on each end of the threaded rod, drop the whole works into those milled slots and cover it with acraglass.
 
Perfect , I can't wait to get started, the stock company said 10-12 weeks on the 2 stocks. Now that that worry is out of the way, the only other problem will be finding a very very good person with lots of time at checkering , cause when I finish these stocks, it will be very hard to let someone hack into them.I will want a basic but pleasing to the eye 20lpi job. Hope someone local has the tools and skill level required.:(
This is what I requested, I did not care for the fiddle back
25.27bwgssssswcomp.jpg
 
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Well its not my first kick at this, but is on this grade of Claro , my 25-06 has nice lumber, but of a different kind, and that one was made from a blank . You won't see one like that anywhere, these will be more classic, less radical.
I should take pics, but no idea how to post em.:rolleyes:
 
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Levi Garrett said:
Well its not my first kick at this, but is on this grade of Claro , my 25-06 has nice lumber, but of a different kind, and that one was made from a blank . You won't see one like that anywhere, these will be more classic, less radial.
I should take pics, but no idea how to post em.:rolleyes:
Click to expand...
if you want to e-mail em to one of us there are a bunch of us that can host them for you.
nice looking lumber BTW
 
Pics sent, color is a match, the camera angles sucked a bit, :rolleyes: but don't go to hard on me, this was the first, sold the second, kept this one, cause its scary accurate on deer , with a 26 in mag sporter barrel from Ted Gaillard, its seen some action:D . Kept the length of pull short for prone long range shots in cold weather where you got more clothes on than brains for being out on such days. :D
 
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The pattern is dremel tool on the palm swell , and around the pig(burl is easy to carve), the pig is puter inlet, and the F S is elk ivory, not sure if thats in the pic though:confused: No it ain't , thats under the timmny safety. Its a very ####ty job , but I learned from it, and thats always good eh!
 
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When the slots are deep enough you can lay a headed screw, one in each direction, on top of each other and pour the glass in.

This is the repair with the recoil lug area, and the rear of the action bedded. There is clearance behind the tang and the "lungs" are now bedded to take recoil. Most 98 actions do not have this area bedded and I was taught to bed them to take recoil. Next the entire stock will get some stock finish inside and out.

cross%20bolt%203.JPG
 
That bedding looks like it took perfect, do you sand on the sides high up to relieve pressure outward or leave it like that, I was told contact on the bottom only, and I can see the lug does not bottom out in the stock, a good thing eh.
 
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Levi Garrett said:
That bedding looks like it took perfect, do you sand on the sides high up to releave pressure outward or leave it like that, I was told contact on the bottom only, and I can see the lug does not bottom out in the stock, a good thing eh.
Click to expand...

I relieve the sides slightly by scaping so the metal goes in and out of the stock easier, and the front parts and the rear of the tang. The upper parts that are quite tapered don't need relief, it is more where the sides are straight up and down... The bedding doesn't have to look perfect everywhere to give maximum strength and accuracy.
 
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