Curious if this stock is repairable. Pics included.

[sean69]

I think the Lee Valley product that is being referred to by Farshot is a product designed for re-gluing chairs, so it’s meant for wood. It’s exactly what came to my mind for a crack repair. Of course if the crack is “gapped” open and there isn’t wood to wood contact then the pinning makes sense.

Here is the MSDS sheet if anyone is interested - I thought it was a CA type glue - apparently not (polymer)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downloads/510450_HealthAndSafetySheet_1.pdf
who knows how well it will work - unless someone here has actually used it..

Also, I like Lee Valley, carry lots of high quality stuff but on the flip side of that they also sell a lot of stuff that solves problems that don't exist

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30261&cat=1,110,30261

 

[Rossiter93]

Once you have it repaired give so relief to the trigger guard so it doesn't happen again

Do you mean to remove some material from the area circled here, or to remove metal from the actual trigger guard itself? The stock also came like this, it wasn't my action that caused the crack originally

 

[Rossiter93]

I went looking for titebond 3 as I had read that it was really well suited to this kind of repair. I couldn't find any, anywhere in town though so I ended up getting Elmer's probond advanced wood glue. Hopefully that'll do the trick. I'm going to strip the stock, steam out any dents I can, repair the crack with a syringe full of the glue I mentioned, wrap it TIGHT with electrical tape, and move on to refinishing from there.

I appreciate all the info and opinions fella's.

Side note, it looks like the front sling swivel is riveted in place. Am I best to just tape it off and work around it when I refinish, or do I have to drill the rivets out and try to use low profile bolts to reattach after refinishing?

 

[sean69]

Do you mean to remove some material from the area circled here, or to remove metal from the actual trigger guard itself? The stock also came like this, it wasn't my action that caused the crack originally

He means the wood behind the trigger guard where the crack starts - take a close look at the guy who posted the advice on checking the lugs etc ... an absolute must, the stock should be taking the force of recoil in the places it was designed to take them.

I went looking for titebond 3 as I had read that it was really well suited to this kind of repair. I couldn't find any, anywhere in town though so I ended up getting Elmer's probond advanced wood glue. Hopefully that'll do the trick. I'm going to strip the stock, steam out any dents I can, repair the crack with a syringe full of the glue I mentioned, wrap it TIGHT with electrical tape, and move on to refinishing from there.

I appreciate all the info and opinions fella's.

Side note, it looks like the front sling swivel is riveted in place. Am I best to just tape it off and work around it when I refinish, or do I have to drill the rivets out and try to use low profile bolts to reattach after refinishing?

ya - you won't find titebond at the big box places, most mills/lumber yards, any specialty wood place lee valley, busy bee etc.

Pics of the sling swivel please

 

[B_noser]

It doesn't look to me as though that crack was caused by recoil. I believe it is more likely to be the result of a severe blow in an upward direction to the underside of the butt - perhaps in the vicinity of the toe. Is there any sign of significant impact to that area?

 

[farshot]

I use the Hot Stuff glue from Lee Valley. Used it on dozens of repairs over the years. Works very well for me.

 

[Rossiter93]

He means the wood behind the trigger guard where the crack starts - take a close look at the guy who posted the advice on checking the lugs etc ... an absolute must, the stock should be taking the force of recoil in the places it was designed to take them.




ya - you won't find titebond at the big box places, most mills/lumber yards, any specialty wood place lee valley, busy bee etc.

Pics of the sling swivel please

 

[Rossiter93]

It doesn't look to me as though that crack was caused by recoil. I believe it is more likely to be the result of a severe blow in an upward direction to the underside of the butt - perhaps in the vicinity of the toe. Is there any sign of significant impact to that area?

No signs of impact anywhere. Just a bunch of little dings and scrapes but nothing that looks like it was a big hit

 

[Rossiter93]

He means the wood behind the trigger guard where the crack starts - take a close look at the guy who posted the advice on checking the lugs etc ... an absolute must, the stock should be taking the force of recoil in the places it was designed to take them.




ya - you won't find titebond at the big box places, most mills/lumber yards, any specialty wood place lee valley, busy bee etc.

Pics of the sling swivel please

Forgot to add this picture to my last reply, but this is my action and trigger group locked down in this stock, it doesn't go anywhere near the cracked area. Would I be alright not removing any material because of the space already there?

 

[sean69]

That is really starting to look like "not the correct stock" - I'm guessing you are going to have all kinds of issues going forward. and yup - that sure is riveted, you may be able to punch them out, but not too likely, you also may be able to dremel the rims off from the back & then punch them, but then you need to find a replacement. though if you do that you can use some bolds and just replace/rethread the round lugs in the barrel channel ... those are also kinda looking "not original"

 

[Rossiter93]

That is really starting to look like "not the correct stock" - I'm guessing you are going to have all kinds of issues going forward. and yup - that sure is riveted, you may be able to punch them out, but not too likely, you also may be able to dremel the rims off from the back & then punch them, but then you need to find a replacement. though if you do that you can use some bolds and just replace/rethread the round lugs in the barrel channel ... those are also kinda looking "not original"

That's not what I was looking to hear. The stock came from Wolverine Supplies in the batch they brought up the the US last year around Christmas time

 

[sean69]

That's not what I was looking to hear. The stock came from Wolverine Supplies in the batch they brought up the the US last year around Christmas time

Don't take my word for it - I really don't know much about the M14 platform.... all I see is a lot of inletting and no metal matching up correctly. Could be a different variant/model ?

I'm sure someone will chime in and set me straight

 

[Rossiter93]

Don't take my word for it - I really don't know much about the M14 platform.... all I see is a lot of inletting and no metal matching up correctly. Could be a different variant/model ?

I'm sure someone will chime in and set me straight

I'm hoping it has to do with the fact it's a Norinco sitting in a GI stock. It locks down tight when everything is in place, it just seems to have extra inletting around the trigger guard