Current component prices

machohugeaxe

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Just wanted to check with more experienced people here. I'm looking around at current, non-sale prices. I haven't been following until now, but can you guys tell me if I'm way off for something like .223 remington?

Primer = 160$/1000 = 0.16$/round
Bullets = 60$/500 = 0.12$/round
Powder = 55$/lb(275 rounds approx) = $0.20/round
Brass = I'm seeing a lot of variation here, can someone clue me in as to a good price for this?

So not counting the brass, just based on looking around on the internet, its coming up to around $0.48/round for the components for .223. Am I close or way off?
 
I think you are close.

Brass - lots of brass free to pick up (range bucket) at both my local ranges
Bullets - maybe even more due to tax. $60/500 is the price here in Windsor (and in stock too)
Primers - ouch. Saw them at a store near London for $12.99 per 100 so $0.13 vs your $0.16 but close
Powder - same store near London had powder, as does our local Windsor store. So powder availability is "reasonable". I see H4198 at $60/lb which can load 389 rounds so $0.15

So, my math would be $0.40 per round. I think that's still cheaper than factory.

YMMV
 
6.5 Creedmoor

Primers $130-$230 /brick
Bullets $65 /100
Powder $70 /lbs
Brass ~1$ each, expect about 10 uses

I'm close to $1.20 per reload
 
I think you are close.

Brass - lots of brass free to pick up (range bucket) at both my local ranges
Bullets - maybe even more due to tax. $60/500 is the price here in Windsor (and in stock too)
Primers - ouch. Saw them at a store near London for $12.99 per 100 so $0.13 vs your $0.16 but close
Powder - same store near London had powder, as does our local Windsor store. So powder availability is "reasonable". I see H4198 at $60/lb which can load 389 rounds so $0.15

So, my math would be $0.40 per round. I think that's still cheaper than factory.

YMMV

Thanks, I dont have any experience so I had to go off of Google for the powder estimate, since I have no idea how far a pound will go on average. I'm trying to track some prices and stock up on components if I recognize sales, before I invest in the equipment
 
Thanks, I dont have any experience so I had to go off of Google for the powder estimate, since I have no idea how far a pound will go on average. I'm trying to track some prices and stock up on components if I recognize sales, before I invest in the equipment

IMHO equipment can be very inexpensive to get started. Everyone else will cringe, but a single stage Lee Press ($77.49 in stock), a set of Lee dies in 223 ($53.49 in stock) plus a Lee funnel ($6), sizing wax ($7) and a lube pad ($16) and that is the BARE MINIMUM so $160. This assumes no scale (you should get a scale) and will just use the Lee scoop that comes with the die set. Then just brass, primers, projectiles, and powder (*** that works with the included Lee scoop). Ideally you'd get a scale (~ $50 for low end, $100 for better...)

So, if I can math, if you reload 320 rounds you have saved the equivalent of the most basic reloading kit.

That being said, you'll eventually want upgrades. And then down the rabbit hole you'll go.
 
For us milsurp shooters reloading is the only way to go. Where can we buy 8mmx57, 7.62 Russian, 7.5 French, 7.7 Jap, 6.5 Swede , 7x57 ,7.5 Swiss, 6.5x52 etc reasonable even if it could be found. I also shoot my own cast bullets in all these rifles. Shooting for me is still an interesting affordable hobby.
 
For us milsurp shooters reloading is the only way to go. Where can we buy 8mmx57, 7.62 Russian, 7.5 French, 7.7 Jap, 6.5 Swede , 7x57 ,7.5 Swiss, 6.5x52 etc reasonable even if it could be found. I also shoot my own cast bullets in all these rifles. Shooting for me is still an interesting affordable hobby.

That's interesting, I haven't looked at bullet casting before. Is it a difficult process? I see furnaces that look to be tabletop size but not sure if its more or less dangerous than a chemistry experiment. And isn't there danger with lead? Would assume you'd want some high powered fume hood indoors.

IMHO equipment can be very inexpensive to get started. Everyone else will cringe, but a single stage Lee Press ($77.49 in stock), a set of Lee dies in 223 ($53.49 in stock) plus a Lee funnel ($6), sizing wax ($7) and a lube pad ($16) and that is the BARE MINIMUM so $160. This assumes no scale (you should get a scale) and will just use the Lee scoop that comes with the die set. Then just brass, primers, projectiles, and powder (*** that works with the included Lee scoop). Ideally you'd get a scale (~ $50 for low end, $100 for better...)

So, if I can math, if you reload 320 rounds you have saved the equivalent of the most basic reloading kit.

That being said, you'll eventually want upgrades. And then down the rabbit hole you'll go.

Yea I went ahead and got the following from package EE for around 400. Seemed like an OK price

Redding big boss press
Cabelas digital powder scale
RCBS Uniflow powder measure
RCBS scales
Lee auto primer
misc parts like trimmer, shell holders, lube pad..etc


Anyway, seems like Powder & Primers are difficult right now. Wonder if anyone makes their own powder...
 
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Just wanted to check with more experienced people here. I'm looking around at current, non-sale prices. I haven't been following until now, but can you guys tell me if I'm way off for something like .223 remington?

Primer = 160$/1000 = 0.16$/round
Bullets = 60$/500 = 0.12$/round
Powder = 55$/lb(275 rounds approx) = $0.20/round
Brass = I'm seeing a lot of variation here, can someone clue me in as to a good price for this?

So not counting the brass, just based on looking around on the internet, its coming up to around $0.48/round for the components for .223. Am I close or way off?

I am going to suggest that you went wrong about the point that you thought that you would get "cheap" shells by reloading. Of those that I know, most people that think like that, have seldom had 100 rounds, that are paid for, on hand.

As shown to a younger guy that I am helping to get started - is 23 sets of dies here - that means shell holders, trim gauges and so on, for each cartridge. Not counting the shotshell reloading stuff. Hundreds of pounds of bullets - many containers of powders of various types - multiple boxes of primers - is a lot of dollars tied up in that. Many binders of old loading notes - lots of combinations that did NOT work well, but I tried them to know. But I can today whip up a 100 rounds of most anything, for my rifles, in an hour or two. (Center fire rifle) And not likely "bargain basement" cheapest tools to reload with either - although that is some of what I use most every reloading. Some of this stuff I have owned for forty years - no longer remember if I bought it new or used, back then - likely no longer matters - except I know it works just fine for me. If you think you will save pennies - most assuredly you will spend dollars to do so.

For your example, I reload 223 Rem for my grandson - 24.0 grains Benchmark powder, 55 grain Hornady V-Max bullets, FC 3 dot brass, Fed 205 primers. I have no clue what that would cost to buy today - I had bought some of that stuff 10 years ago. I have no idea if that is most best for that PC 10 rifle or not - goes "bang", and bullet goes toward where Grandson aims it - so "good enough" for now. Might take me an hour or two to make up a batch of 100 if he is running short.
 
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I am going to suggest that you went wrong about the point that you thought that you would get "cheap" shells by reloading. Of those that I know, most people that think like that, have seldom had 100 rounds, that are paid for, on hand.

As shown to a younger guy that I am helping to get started - is 23 sets of dies here - that means shell holders, trim gauges and so on, for each cartridge. Not counting the shotshell reloading stuff. Hundreds of pounds of bullets - many containers of powders of various types - multiple boxes of primers - is a lot of dollars tied up in that. Many binders of old loading notes - lots of combinations that did NOT work well, but I tried them to know. But I can today whip up a 100 rounds of most anything, for my rifles, in an hour or two. (Center fire rifle) And not likely "bargain basement" cheapest tools to reload with either - although that is some of what I use most every reloading. Some of this stuff I have owned for forty years - no longer remember if I bought it new or used, back then - likely no longer matters - except I know it works just fine for me. If you think you will save pennies - most assuredly you will spend dollars to do so.

For your example, I reload 223 Rem for my grandson - 24.0 grains Benchmark powder, 55 grain Hornady V-Max bullets, FC 3 dot brass, Fed 205 primers. I have no clue what that would cost to buy today - I had bought some of that stuff 10 years ago. I have no idea if that is most best for that PC 10 rifle or not - goes "bang", and bullet goes toward where Grandson aims it - so "good enough" for now. Might take me an hour or two to make up a batch of 100 if he is running short.

Of course currently price is a motivator to get started, but the end goal is to eventually get to where you're at now, accumulating knowledge and experience. Though I don't think I'll have the same level of storage space ever

For your example, I reload 223 Rem for my grandson - 24.0 grains Benchmark powder, 55 grain Hornady V-Max bullets, FC 3 dot brass, Fed 205 primers. I have no clue what that would cost to buy today - I had bought some of that stuff 10 years ago

Probably at least 60cents/round
 
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Brass ~1$ each, expect about 10 uses

So is this why I'm seeing a lot of variation for brass then? You can get unknown brass with unknown number of uses remaining, i.e. picking it up at range or buying 2nd hand, or brand new brass and assume an average number of uses remaining (i'm guessing it would also depend on your load?)
So to track my cost for brass, I'd have to make the decision between cheaper and unknown vs more expensive and new/known, then approximate I guess?

I was just planning on buying factory ammo to start and picking up my own brass.
 
You don’t save money cause you end up shooting g more…. You might end up with better accuracy and tailored loads for your rifle,you might be a le to have some combination for your caliber that would be hard or impossible to find in the factory loads! For me what got me starred is the acquisition of a 9.3x62 and not finding quality ammo locally! Then my dad gave me a 8x57, an old Mauser rifle he bought when he was 16( now he’s 80) and also got a 7x57r and and 7x57 so these are also hard to find ammo for in my neck of the wood! So reloading it is!
 
You're saving money... per shot, which allows you to shoot more with the same money. I mean to each their own. This isn't going to be a long term hobby for me if I cant get the cost per trip to be a certain amount relative to my disposable income. I like to shoot to my hearts content at the range, i dont want money to be on my mind while I'm out. so I will penny pinch outside of the range to achieve that, knowing I've done my homework. Cost/enjoyment or cost/entertainment time ratio is important for me. And if reloading also happens to be enjoyable, bonus. Yes equipment costs money, but just like any capital investment you amortize it over the course of use, like buying a new mattress haha
 
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So is this why I'm seeing a lot of variation for brass then? You can get unknown brass with unknown number of uses remaining, i.e. picking it up at range or buying 2nd hand, or brand new brass and assume an average number of uses remaining (i'm guessing it would also depend on your load?)
So to track my cost for brass, I'd have to make the decision between cheaper and unknown vs more expensive and new/known, then approximate I guess?

I was just planning on buying factory ammo to start and picking up my own brass.

I think you have got good analysis going - for brass though - I found is sort of "wild card". How long the brass lasts is a bit about the loads that you chose - hotter loads, the brass dies sooner - mild loads, the brass might never die, with periodic case neck annealing.

I have pile of once fired factory 22-250 Winchester brass from neighbour - I processed about 180 brass - I think was 4 found that were not longer useable - the necks were split - and I do not doubt all was factory rounds, still with the factory primers in there - that guy does not reload, and has never had "re-loads" done for him. His "stash" was so mixed up that I do not know if those cracked necks were from same box of ammo, or were random across the bunch that he brought over.

One of the "variations" that you discover in brass - how hard versus how "springy" is it? From some factories is quite hard and rigid - others quite soft and springy - as home guy you can anneal case necks and make them soft and springy again - they got "hard" by being "worked" - expanded when fired, squeezed down when resized, then slightly expanded again as a bullet is seated.

I recently went through a bag of 100 Winchester new brass for 22-250 - in the "red label" bag. Older stuff was in blue label bags. Out of the 100 factory new ones - about 20 or more had issues - visible folds on shoulders; either cracks or potential cracks on the neck; about a dozen had necks so deformed that they would not chamber into my rifle - as if a tooling had been left within the case neck as the case tilted over - to make like a "spigot" or "pitcher pour" deformity (going "out") on the case neck. With re-sizing, etc., I have the full 100 now fit to reload - but not sure whether some of them will survive a first or second firing - I do not think those necks will last.

My previous experience, until these "new" Winchester cases, was that the primer pocket will stretch - until you can virtually press a primer into place with your thumb, if you let it go that far - loose primer pockets retired probably 90% of the brass that I threw out, split necks probably the rest.

I have received brass that was sold as "once fired" - all shiny nice from a stainless pin tumble, alleged to be "pre-processed" and ready to reload - except primer pockets really sloppy - is no way, to me, that was "once fired" brass. So, lately, I have tried to limit my purchases to mil-surp brass with original primers still crimped in place - I have the gizmos to remove those primers, chamfer those primer pockets and stainless pin tumble that brass if I want to. The alternate was to buy factory new brass, as I have been doing since 1980's - except this last bag of red label Winchester has really given me pause to consider how "crappy", to me, is the stuff being sold as "factory new" bulk brass. I have never owned Lapua or Nosler brass - I suspect they are several steps better. I doubt that I had seen that many previous issues in thousands of cases from Remington, from Winchester Blue Label, from PPU - as I found in this one bag of 100. And I have two more bags of it to go, yet.
 
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hotter loads, the brass dies sooner - mild loads, the brass might never die, with periodic case neck annealing.
...
One of the "variations" that you discover in brass - how hard versus how "springy" is it? From some factories is quite hard and rigid - others quite soft and springy - as home guy you can anneal case necks and make them soft and springy again - they got "hard" by being "worked" - expanded when fired, squeezed down when resized, then slightly expanded again as a bullet is seated.
...
My previous experience, until these "new" Winchester cases, was that the primer pocket will stretch - until you can virtually press a primer into place with your thumb, if you let it go that far - loose primer pockets retired probably 90% of the brass that I threw out, split necks probably the rest.
...
I have received brass that was sold as "once fired" - all shiny nice from a stainless pin tumble, alleged to be "pre-processed" and ready to reload - except primer pockets really sloppy - is no way, to me, that was "once fired" brass. So, lately, I have tried to limit my purchases to mil-surp brass with original primers still crimped in place - I have the gizmos to remove those primers, chamfer those primer pockets and stainless pin tumble that brass if I want to. The alternate was to buy factory new brass, as I have been doing since 1980's - except this last bag of red label Winchester has really given me pause to consider how "crappy", to me, is the stuff being sold as "factory new" bulk brass. I have never owned Lapua or Nosler brass - I suspect they are several steps better. I doubt that I had seen that many previous issues in thousands of cases from Remington, from Winchester Blue Label, from PPU - as I found in this one bag of 100. And I have two more bags of it to go, yet.

Thanks for this, I feel like you have a wealth of knowledge, really giving me new areas to research. Do reloading manuals cover this practical knowledge stuff? What are some good resources to read up on? I think out of all components, brass is one of the areas that have most variation, unknowns and where experience can really be an important factor. Would be great if I didn't have to figure it out through having something blow up.

Man! I think there should be a weekend course for this
 
"good resources" - thinking on that, not so sure was any one place for you to go. Looking at various reloading manuals here - Nosler, Lyman, Hornady, Speer, Sierra - all have good sections about "how to reload" - and each seems to add bits and pieces of information. For example, there is a section on "External Ballistics" in the Sierra V manual - I do not think you will find similar discussion in most other manuals - explains why Sierra lists up to four or five Ballistic Co-efficient numbers for various bullets - they determined that B.C. varies with the velocity in air that the bullet is travelling - so is different B.C. number for particular velocity at that instant - whereas most other books give you "one" B.C. value for their bullet.

By and large, most things written by John Barsness are pretty helpful - he tends not to always follow "traditional path" - speaks his mind, I think. In some cases, when in doubt, he had or has a relationship with people at Western Powders lab in Montana - and has taken some of his ideas there to get pressure tested on their equipment - is not at all common to find people who have experience with truly pressure tested loadings. If you were to buy one or two books of his - I think "The Hunter's Guide - Handloading Smokeless Rifle Cartridges" - aka "Big Book of Gun Gack", and then perhaps "The Big Book of Gun Gack II". He had multiple previous smaller books about hand loading, modifications to firearms and so on. I think a lot of the sections in those books were articles written by him that had been previously published in various USA gun magazines like "Rifle" or "Handloader" and others. He seems to be active on the 24hourcampfire website as user name "Mule Deer". I do know that his suggestions for "tuning" on a Ruger #1 rifle, for loading for 7x57 and for 9.3x62 have worked out well for me - so I tend to rely a bit on his published stuff.

Is an area to challenge your critical thinking skills - will see some published or much on-line posts that are contradictory - have to put your "thinking cap" on to sort the "wheat from the chaff".

Thinking about "resources" - is hard to beat your own experience. No one else has your rifle, it's chamber, it's bore - or your brass or powder or primers - so what you get is sort of unique - and what someone else got with their stuff may or may not have much to do with you and your stuff. As I am trying to get a new-to-reloading young fellow to understand - is what you and your stuff can demonstrate on targets - so try different things - but do 2 or 3 five shot groups first - then do your change - then 2 or 3 more five shot groups - can you show that you made a difference in groups size, with your stuff?? Does not matter what someone else achieved with their stuff - is you and your skill and your stuff that will count for your results. "Holes on target do not lie!"

I know from reading is not unheard of for serious competitor guys to buy 3 or 4 new barrels - try them all, then go compete with the one that gave them best results - relying on their experience - not on a brand name or a marketing sales pitch. Is not something that normal "one rifle owner" or 20 shots per week type of shooter likely to do.

Perhaps related - I bought a store-new Winchester Model 70 in 308 Win in 1976. Our son still uses that one as his "deer" rifle. I was fairly active with "experiments" with it during early 1980's - various bullets, powders, primers and brass - I settled on Speer 165 grain HotCor bullets, RL-19 powder and Fed 210 primers in FC brass (I think!!). Also glass bed action, "free float" barrel, forearm tip pressure point on barrel. It has likely been more than 20 years since I dismantled that rifle - I do not remember if that pressure tip still there or if it was removed - but I did try with and without - whatever it has now is what I thought worked better - then. I verified the muzzle velocity several times over the years on more than one chronograph - is always plus or minus around 2,800 fps - is similar velocity to what I see reported by Nosler and Speer for similar weight bullet and that powder. So, is what I have repeatedly loaded for that rifle since. So, I am not a good resource for ideas about 308 Win - I have been doing the exact same load for about 30 years for that rifle. Lots of experience with that load in that rifle - but no clue how it might work in another person's gear, for a different shooter - and also no clue if there are "new" powders and bullets that would work just as well - I got it to "good enough for my needs" - then stocked up on components - is several other rifles here, yet to get to that stage.
 
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Thanks for this, I feel like you have a wealth of knowledge, really giving me new areas to research. Do reloading manuals cover this practical knowledge stuff? What are some good resources to read up on? I think out of all components, brass is one of the areas that have most variation, unknowns and where experience can really be an important factor. Would be great if I didn't have to figure it out through having something blow up.

Man! I think there should be a weekend course for this

"weekend course" - to condense to a "weekend" is probably already in the reloading manuals - tells you step-by-step WHAT to do, but sometimes fairly lean on the WHY to do that - so some people "jump to conclusions" - including me. I suspect a complete "reloading course" that covered all the "why" stuff would be pretty boring to most - would be like trying to distill 40 years of reading and experiences both positive and negative, into a sentence.

I will leave to your imagination what I think of the 20 minute Youtube videos that purport to tell you all that you need to know to be able to reload.
 
I initially got into reloading because I was shooting upwards of 10K large pistol rounds a year and at that volume it completely was worth it. Ultimately my main purpose for reloading was because I was tired of being dependent on the relatively inconsistent supply of ammo. Its honestly a priceless feeling knowing you I have enough components( at yesterdays' prices) for the next 30 years and pretty much have a reloading die, shot maker and bullet mould or two for every caliber you own and some you don't.
 
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