Custom Mauser build (vs CZ?)

DrakeriderCa

DrakeriderCa

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I'm thinking about building a precision rifle soon. The bug has bit me, and I need to try something different. I've settled on 6.5x55 for a caliber, and I'm looking at having it built from the ground up by a competent 'smith from a '96 action.

So far, I'm thinking:
- Mauser 96 action
- Shilen or Lothar Walther barrel, 1:9 twist
- Timney trigger
- Boyd's stock
- Drilled and tapped for mounts, with solid rings (Rings and mounts I'm not set on yet)
- Leupold VX III 4.5-14x40 w/M1 turrets, or Leupold Mk4 3.5-10x40 LRT M1

Thoughts? Any kind of gunsmithing treatment I should get done to make the rifle more accurate? Magnafluxing, blueprinting the action, any special kind of truing? I don't need 1/4 MOA, so if the cost/benefit is too high, I don't need it.

I understand that the vast majority of my accuracy will depend on my own skill development, and not my shooting platform. I just want to make sure that the rig will shoot a consistent 1MOA out to 600yards, so that I can concentrate on my skills. I don't want to spend too much - just get 1 MOA consistently.

Am I better off to just start off with a CZ chambered in 6.5x55? How will the cost/benefit work out comparatively?
 
I would consider buying a Remington 5R milspec (.308). Shoot 168 grain Federal Gold match, HSM 168 match and 175 match ammo. The only modification you'll need is $40 to have a gunsmith lower the trigger weight (2.5-3 pounds). Spend the rest on good rings and optics.

You can find the 5R for $1K in the EE if you look. Or slightly more. Learn on this and then go for a custom target rifle later. Or have the 5R modified later by a gunsmith.

Sub .5 moa is pretty common with these rifles. That's with off the shelf target grade ammo.

Also if you decided to sell it later, this rifle will hold it's value fairly well.

Personally I'd skip the Leupold. You can do better for the money. Check out the optics forum.
 
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I have built my fair share of rifles on WWI and II actions to know how fun and rewarding it can be.

I however, would not use the 96 Mauser. No where near as strong as the 98 or better yet, the many commercial sporters like the Parker Hale Midland. Pretty pokey lock time too.

Can it work, you bet. Has it been done, many many times. Is it worth it?????

If you haven't purchased the action, consider a sporterised Mauser or Enfield P17. I really like the P's as they have a solid lock up. Not many smiths will work on them given the extra work of the square thread but......

I stopped building rifles on these actions when the Stevens came out several years back. You get a modern, unstressed action, with lots of accessories, easy do it yourself parts for the same price as a WWII special.

There is no risk of a crystallized action either.

Sounds like you want to play and do some work to tweak a rifle. Nothing better then a Savage/Stevens and you will far ahead not only in accuracy but also costs.

For the cost of the barrel with gunsmith install which will have to include checking the old actions for wear - magnafluxing, extra machining, truing, whatever, you have a finished Savage/Stevens.

Then the need for parts like triggers, bolt bending, drilling and tapping scope bases, maybe even machining to get the bases to fit, stock, you are into this relic action for beaucoup bucks.

A Savage is functional right out of the box and if you sell of the barrel and stock, you will recoup $150.

If you want to learn how to shoot, consider a Savage HB in 223. This will shoot circles around your built up Mauser AND cost at least 1/2 as much.

That extra money you can put towards reloading gear/components, optics, whatever.

Just some thoughts...

In case you didn't consider this, the 6.5 is going to eat a barrel in 1500/2000rds give or take. That makes alot of trigger time pretty expensive. Yes, ballistically it is wonderful but expensive.

Since you mention Shilen, a blued CM prefit barrel for a Savage is $395.

A CM blank is $285 then you will need $250 to install plus all the extra labour costs to make that action workable. Think $350 as a min for labour plus whatever it costs to reblue the rifle. Then the bolt bending, aftermarket trigger, stock, etc. $$$$$$$

You'll hit $1000 without too much effort and still be left with a $350 rifle.
Jerry
 
I agree with everything above. Start with a factory rifle that can accomplish what you are asking and you're not really asking for a lot when it comes to performance. Today's factory precision rifles are amazing. There's a reason you see so many threads about Savage... and even the R5, which is very nice out of the box for performance and looks.

The Savages are great for performance out of the box and are starting to catch up when it comes to looks.

And if you do want to go custom in the future, sell the factory rifle and let another newbie catch the bug. Pass the sport to the next generation, that's the only way to keep it going.
 
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