Custom Pistol Grip Manufacture??

[wildernessguy]

I recently purchased a Norc M77B and one the polymer grips was previously cracked and repaired. It may be a design issue related to the extra recoil from the delayed blowback design, not really sure. I am looking for a machinist in Canada that can hopefully clone them out of high grade aluminium. The pistol was so cheap, I don't mind shelling out extra for custom made grips.

I contacted some local machine shops, they said before the CNC program can be devised, a "tracer" is needed to input the specs of the exisiting grips if that helps. Can anyone do this?

Thanks!

 

[BCRider]

I believe that the tracer operation involves using one of the stock grips as a pattern and a 3D digitizing probe samples positions in space to accurately model the current grip. The other way to obtain a pattern is design one in CAD from scratch.

None of this will be cheap if you have to pay someone to do the work. It could easily cost you well over the cost of the gun by the time you have the first set of grips in your hand. And it's not like there is a huge market for such grips so that you could market them and reduce the per unit cost.

On the other hand finding a wood worker that could make up some wood grips would be much easier and far, far cheaper.

 

[wildernessguy]

I believe that the tracer operation involves using one of the stock grips as a pattern and a 3D digitizing probe samples positions in space to accurately model the current grip. The other way to obtain a pattern is design one in CAD from scratch.

None of this will be cheap if you have to pay someone to do the work. It could easily cost you well over the cost of the gun by the time you have the first set of grips in your hand. And it's not like there is a huge market for such grips so that you could market them and reduce the per unit cost.

On the other hand finding a wood worker that could make up some wood grips would be much easier and far, far cheaper.

Your right, wood grips would be much cheaper and a lot easier to work with. My concern would be how thin is too thin for even hardwood. I don't know if the finger groove can be cut that deep without having them crack again. years ago when I worked in a wood shop we did a lot of work with ash. Said to be even stronger than oak. Some nice grainy stock would sure look sharp with a nice finish. Have a look at the pistol and let me know what yout think. Thanks!

http://img836.imageshack.us/slideshow/webplayer.php?id=015drf.jpg

 

[BCRider]

The middle where the trigger finger goes IS fairly thin but not overly so.

The choice of wood will definetly make a difference. Many hardwoods are certainly hard enough but a lot of them are brittle and prone to easily splitting across the grain. Oak is one such wood with cherry and black walnut being others. On the other hand some hardwoods such as maple, arbutus, zebrawood, and others are quite flexible and stringly across the grain and resist splitting quite well.

One trick I would suggest for this shape of grips and given how tall they are is to shape the rear with a little bit of an arch at the thin spot. That way when the screws flex the grip down flat to the frame there's a little tension to aid in holding the upper extension more firmly to the frame. That alone will aid in avoiding stuff getting a hold on the wood and pulling it away.

If you don't mind a project and have some tools try a quicky set of your own making. For this I'd suggest something such as maple if you like the idea of a honey blond look following varnish or oil finishing. For a darker options I can suggest Padauk and lacewood as nice to work with and quite resiliient to cross grain flexing to make them split resistant. Red gum wood is another.

If you buy from a place which is more than just a "wood department store" the operator may know more options if you tell him what it's for and that you need a wood that isn't too brittle when flexed a little across the grain. Using maple as an example will give him an idea of the sort of traits you're looking for. Also you don't want a wood, like cocobolo or lignum vitae, that are extremly hard and difficult to work with using regular hand tools, files and sandpaper.

If you do take on the challenge be sure to start with longer blanks and use the non carved portion as something to hold onto in your vise. Alternately flatten and slightly arch the back and then drill and countersink the screw holes and mount the blanks onto another stick to use as a holder.

Working with coarse metal files that are new works very well on woods of this sort. And it's easier to controll the removal compared to a lot of other options.

 

[wildernessguy]

The middle where the trigger finger goes IS fairly thin but not overly so.

The choice of wood will definetly make a difference. Many hardwoods are certainly hard enough but a lot of them are brittle and prone to easily splitting across the grain. Oak is one such wood with cherry and black walnut being others. On the other hand some hardwoods such as maple, arbutus, zebrawood, and others are quite flexible and stringly across the grain and resist splitting quite well.

One trick I would suggest for this shape of grips and given how tall they are is to shape the rear with a little bit of an arch at the thin spot. That way when the screws flex the grip down flat to the frame there's a little tension to aid in holding the upper extension more firmly to the frame. That alone will aid in avoiding stuff getting a hold on the wood and pulling it away.

If you don't mind a project and have some tools try a quicky set of your own making. For this I'd suggest something such as maple if you like the idea of a honey blond look following varnish or oil finishing. For a darker options I can suggest Padauk and lacewood as nice to work with and quite resiliient to cross grain flexing to make them split resistant. Red gum wood is another.

If you buy from a place which is more than just a "wood department store" the operator may know more options if you tell him what it's for and that you need a wood that isn't too brittle when flexed a little across the grain. Using maple as an example will give him an idea of the sort of traits you're looking for. Also you don't want a wood, like cocobolo or lignum vitae, that are extremly hard and difficult to work with using regular hand tools, files and sandpaper.

If you do take on the challenge be sure to start with longer blanks and use the non carved portion as something to hold onto in your vise. Alternately flatten and slightly arch the back and then drill and countersink the screw holes and mount the blanks onto another stick to use as a holder.

Working with coarse metal files that are new works very well on woods of this sort. And it's easier to controll the removal compared to a lot of other options.

Thanks for taking the time for thourough reply and the many great tips. There is a small wood working shop right down the street from me, I'll go see if they can make some blanks when I decide on a type of wood. I can finish them off from there.

When I get it all finished, I will post some pix!