Cutting a wood stock

maddtrappr

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what is the best way to minimize tearout damage when cutting a wood stock? i just installed a limbsaver grind to fit recoil pad on my rem700 and had to cut the end to make square. i wrapped the stock with 2 wraps of masking tape,used a brand new finishing blade on my miter saw. the tape just held the splinters in place ...
 
score the cut line with a sharp knife, also blade selection is key, more teeth makes for a smoother cut, most over the counter saw blades have a utilitarian rake that works okay on everything but not great on anything
 
Don't try to cut to the line. Use a marking gauge to mark the line, cut close to the line with any saw you have and then trim down to the line with a circular sanding disc. I use a 12" with a sharp disc. Even if you don't stay perfectly square go down to your line and if it's high in the middle it's easy to sand down flat with 80 and a hard block by hand.
 
Just use a hacksaw.
It will take a little longer to cut but you won't spend hours finishing.

This, but use a fine blade and tape the area with masking tape first. Stops most splintering but not all. Mark the tape where you want to make your cut and be careful, especially if you're cutting for a curved butt plate.
 
thx for all the tips will try nxt time. im thinking back to belt sander to touch up chipped areas,itll be about 1/8"so shouldnt take too long.
 
Sharp blade and cut slow. Some dorks think because it's called a chop saw that that is how you use it. It got so bad at work that I bought my own saw and blades and would keep them locked.
 
I have to shorten the stocks on all of my wife's and my shotguns and rifles and so have done a bunch. I agree with yodaves method as the knife cut will help eliminate splinters along whit the tape. I use a sliding mitre saw with a fine blade and cut short of the mark by a small amount. I use a piece of marble with 220 sand paper and use it to make the cut flat. I also sand the recoil pad bottom to make it flat as well.
 
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