CZ 858 no gunsmith side mount? Where do you get them?
- Thread starter cadgo
- Start date
Jwirecom109
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Alberta
This is the way i'm now running my CZ, after 2 years with a side mount (drilled and tapped into the gun) i decided that i wanted someone different and i went with the cantilever mount from NEA, really high quality product!
- Location
- Alberta Free State
I also purchased one of the NEA cantilever mounts, which is going on one of my 858's. The reason I'm interested in a side rail is that I have another one I'd like to keep looking more "original", and an east-bloc side-mount scope would fit in well with that.
Jwirecom109
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Rural Alberta
I still have my side mount (can't really remove it without seeing nasty taped holes) so the no gunsmith mount would be great, but for ease of use the cantilever mount is the way to go.
The look is great i have to agree, but the sight in is so painful it almost hurts when u do it the first time.
Interammo may be willing to give/sell the CAD info if they aren't going to produce them anymore. Might be worth asking if you have a way to get them made.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Teapot2,
Many, many thanks for posting this. I'll see if my machinist buddy is willing - or can be persuaded (maybe by a jug or two of fine sipping whiskey) - to set up his milling machine and do a little fabrication. Whether or not I can talk him into making several remains to be seen, but I'll give it a try.
If all else fails, I'll file/grind/drill the parts of it that can be done by hand, and try a commercial fab shop to cut the dovetail.
It is most generous of you to share this drawing, and I thank you sincerely for doing so.
Cheers,
FB
Many, many thanks for posting this. I'll see if my machinist buddy is willing - or can be persuaded (maybe by a jug or two of fine sipping whiskey) - to set up his milling machine and do a little fabrication. Whether or not I can talk him into making several remains to be seen, but I'll give it a try.
If all else fails, I'll file/grind/drill the parts of it that can be done by hand, and try a commercial fab shop to cut the dovetail.
It is most generous of you to share this drawing, and I thank you sincerely for doing so.
Cheers,
FB
The rail was our own design. If you like it feel free to reproduce. All dimensions are in millimeters.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
The overall length of Teapot2''s no-gunsmith side rail is 165 mm
I wonder if two of these 100 mm Zenit Universal undrilled rails, trimmed for length to make up a total of 165 mm o.a.l. and then tig-welded end-to-end and filed/ground into one long rail, would be a starting point for fabricating Teapot2's side rail (assuming a machine shop was not available).
Just an idle thought...
I wonder if two of these 100 mm Zenit Universal undrilled rails, trimmed for length to make up a total of 165 mm o.a.l. and then tig-welded end-to-end and filed/ground into one long rail, would be a starting point for fabricating Teapot2's side rail (assuming a machine shop was not available).
Just an idle thought...
Last edited:
CZ 858 receiver is not very "friendly" for side mounts. It's very thin and not flat. The single pictured rail will work but the scope will sit too far back which is not comfortable for eye relief. That is why on our rail dove tail is moved forward while mounting holes are located one in the rear and one in the middle. Two 100 mm rails welded and trimmed would work but the front part has to be filed/grinded to fit non flat receiver.
- Location
- Alberta Free State
Yes, and thank you. The side view in the print shows that the forward part is relieved from the underside, and there are several other places where some grinding/filing has to be done - not to say locating and drilling the holes. I guess what I was thinking was that without a milling machine, the single hardest part of the job was making the 60 degree dovetail that runs 2/3 of the length of the rail. If a person could get that part of it already milled, then the rest of the cutouts, relieved sections, drilled holes etc. would be do-able with hand tools - file, drill press, Dremel, grinder.
My friend the machinist may just come back to me and say, "aaahh, no problem" and then I wouldn't be thinking about this bass-ackwards approach.
As you say, the receiver is not very "friendly". Having the blueprint with the exact locations of all of these holes, slots, relieved sections takes much of the guesswork out of that.
