d.i.y. finish for aluminum?

TheTooner

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
GunNutz
Rating - 100%
87   0   0
Location
Saskatoon
I had a local shop copy the too-flexible plastic ramrod that came with my Traditions 209 Tracker muzzleloader in nice stiff aluminum. It works well, but it's shiny. What kind of finish do you think will be durable and easy to apply at home (and fairly cheap - there's a reason this is for a Traditions gun!)? I.e. I'm looking for something better than just spray paint from C.Tire.
 
I agree with armedsask. i just recently applied krylon to one of my rifles and the finish seems quite durable so far. very flat colors too no shine what so ever
 
Throttle monkey1, you could be putting this thread at risk when you ask me how big my rod is. :redface:

Dimensions duplicate the original, which for a Tracker 209 means 23 inches long and as I assume is typical for .50 calibre muzzleloaders, the diameter is less than half an inch. If you are thinking of suggesting that I send it to you for anodizing, yes, I'd be interested in knowing the price of that.

Thanks, to all - I think at least one of those suggestions will prove good and all sound at least worth a try.
 
Last edited:
BBQ paint is made for Al. The B-C Aluminium Black goes on just like cold bluing. Although anodizing is likely the best solution.
 
I would not anodize it. Anodize is aluminum oxide and will wear the muzzle. Paint on the alu won't hurt, it will wear but you can squirt on another coat when you like.
 
aluminium is base when coupled with steel, i.e. becomes sacrificial anode and will oxidise while protecting steel of your barrel. In the same time aluminium form oxide layer that seals it from further corrosion and therefore pair steel-aluminium becomes durable long-lasting thing.
 
It is an extremely hard coating and if the rod has a dull finish when anodized it will tend to be abrasive as well. I would think it better to wear the alu rod instead of the barrel.
 
I've learned a lot from this thread. Thanks.

Now I'm learning more from actually trying one of the suggestions. First, Birchwood-Casey's Aluminum Black. It's selenium dioxide, poisonous and "known to the State of California to cause cancer." (So I won't use it in California.) A local gunsmith suggested anodizing would be better because this stuff would compare to anodizing as cold blue does to "proper hot bluing." Well, I don't quite agree. Of course hot bluing is better than cold, but I've had much better results with cold blue pastes and solutions on steel than I'm getting with the Aluminum Black on aluminum. The finish is very uneven and it's taking several applications to get past a very light, bright grey. But I've got time and don't really care much as long as I get a dark, dull finish eventually, no matter if it is uneven.

If it doesn't work I'll look into anodizing vs. paint and report on the results.
 
Back
Top Bottom