DBLO application questions.

J

jgam

New member
EE Expired
Rating - 0%
0   0   0
Location
Just far enough from the Big Smoke...
Hi All,

I have a Savage Enfield No. 4 stock I purchsed on Ebay. It's in decent shape but was fairly dried out. I've cleaned it lightly and want to restore the finish.

I've been applying double boiled Linseed Oil from Home Hardware by hand and rubbing it in. I then wipe off the excess. I've also tried thinning it with Turpentine.

Here's the problem; after 24 hours there are shiny spots on the wood where the oil has obviously saturated the stock. Other spots remain dull, presumeably where the oil is still soaking in?

The shiny spots are still slightly tacky feeling. Not smooth at all.

I want a uniform finish, but this tackiness makes me wonder if I'm doing anything wrong?

Any advice from the experts out there would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

JGAM
 
To get best results, I have been told by the Gurus that a hard rub with a non-linting cloth to "polish" the oil into the wood is required.

I start with my first coat or two thinned about 50% with turps, then go into the straight DBLO. One coat per day, or thereabouts, dependant on temperature/humidity for a week, one coat a week for a month, one coat per month for a year, then one coat per year as needed after that. You should be getting tired just thinking about it!

I usually give up after about ten coats total, and add more when I notice things getting a little dry. Buff like crazy!

:)

Neal
 
I have a similiar problem I have a new unissued bren MKII stock with some areas that will not absorb any oil.

The one side of the stock looks great but the other has two spots that are bugging me.

What is the difference between double blo and plain blo? Does double make for a deeper more grained look?

Also do you need to use turp or is varsol just as good?
 
IIRC, D. BLO has a drying agent added to speed up the process. Varsol has a bit of a residue, so i'm not sure if it would work.

To keep up the finish make a paste wax by mixing 1/3 BLO, 1/3 turp and 1/3 bee's wax (melted to mix w/other two).
 
Thanks guys, I've read all sorts of things about how to do this, and think I figured out the best way for me (your mileage may vary).

I think I was using WAY too much DBLO. I've tried taking a small piece of cotton (old t-shirt) - thanks nelly, and rubbing in s few DROPS of DBLO. I rub until it gets warm making sure there isn't any excess. It's almost as if I'm rubbing off what I'm trying to put on, as it were.

I've done this on the handguards and it has turned out beautifully. No gummy finish.

I have yet to do the big pieces, but will work on them this week.

Thanks again,

JGAM
 
dblo

Besides being a a great protector DBLO is a very good cleaner for wood surfaces.:) I recently bought a 1942 BSA Enfield .303 and it had old dirt on it so I took a rag soaked in DBLO and wiped it down till the rag was clean. When the wood stops taking the oil then wipe off the excess and let dry. You can buff it by hand or put a drop of oil on your hand and rub into the wood, the rubbing will create heat which helps it absorb and polishes at the same time.:D
 
MRCLARK said:
I have a similiar problem I have a new unissued bren MKII stock with some areas that will not absorb any oil.

The one side of the stock looks great but the other has two spots that are bugging me.
Click to expand...

Is the unissued stock an Inglis, or one of the "NOS ones out of Britain recently. I find that particular wood from Britain very resistant to either staining, or DBLO. Same goes for the orange Cdn Arsenals Enfield wood.
I strip the wood with wood bleach before staining and DBLO. Seems like that wood is very resistant to anything peneterating it. This also allows me to match the wood colours better between various pieces of wood.
 
stencollector said:
Is the unissued stock an Inglis, or one of the "NOS ones out of Britain recently. I find that particular wood from Britain very resistant to either staining, or DBLO. Same goes for the orange Cdn Arsenals Enfield wood.
I strip the wood with wood bleach before staining and DBLO. Seems like that wood is very resistant to anything peneterating it. This also allows me to match the wood colours better between various pieces of wood.
Click to expand...

Its one of the ones out of the UK, I,m having a hell of a time trying to get this thing to look good.

One side looks great but the other looks dark almost like it is covered in mud.

I'd like to start over, will the wood bleach help make it look nice and blonde again?

I'll probably have to raise the grain a bit as well will the wood bleach do this also?

If so where can you buy WB?
 
I had to search a bit for the stuff, but when I found it, the bottom of the box looked like battery acid had eaten at it. I then knew it was going to work.
I found the wood bleach at Home Hardware. I learned of its use off the old Enfield forum, from some of the oldtimers. It really does work. It will strip all the oils (and colour) out of your wood, leaving it thirsting for things like stain and DBLO. It is a two part solution which you mix together and let soak on the wood in the sunlight.
 
In lieu of oxalic acid, you can also bathe the wood in a Tri-Sodium Phosphate solution. scrub with a hard bristled brush to speed theings as necessary.

the "orange" wood coming out of britain and some of the old CND Arsenals stuff is beech. It's an incredibly dense wood with closed pores and weights a good 25% more per volume than walnut. It does NOT take stain well and nothing will change that - even wood bleech. It WILL take oil, but you may need to really cut the oil first. Try using 70% turpentine for the first 6 coats or so. Should help.

Only apply in small amounts in small areas at a time. Buff with the palm of your hand until very hot, then buff off with a cotton cloth and move the the next area. Keep going till the piece is donw. Let sit 24 hrs. then buff lightly with #0000 steel wool and repeat until the desired effect is obtained.

If you don't want to start over, just wet a cotton cloth with DBLO and use it to buff the tacky areas, you will feel when the tackyness is gone when the rubbing gets smooth again. Then wipe vigorously with an old cotton T-shirt to dry off the excess oil and prevent it, too, from getitng tacky.

The trick is to make the wood drink up the oil, leaving little or nothing on the wood surface.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom