Dealing with scope cant......

quentin wipf

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Brandon....
Hi can you guys share any tricks to put on a long range scope perfectly....it seems everyone i put on,my i have to dial 2 moa left or right at 900 yards...for no reason.....thx
 
Depends on a few factors. The shift could be due to the optic and its erector system, or it could be ammo related, could be wind or other meteoroligical factors, or it could just be you. A squared reticle to the boreline is generally optimal but isn't necessary. If you can't the rifle naturally and the reticle is square/true to the horizon then there is no issue.

TDC
 
900 yards. whats the wind doing at 900 yards? normally you would want to have the scope mounted by a gun smith. dowel the rings, even lap them. set the center line. If the vertical cross hair line is off even slightly that can through you off target down range. I set my scope with a plumb bob then set a 4x8 sheet of ply wood at 100 yards, then take a level and draw a line vertically. Aim at the bottom of the line and get your bullet impacted right on that line then adjust your scope about 15-20 MOA and see if the bullet impact still hit on that line. If so then your scope is perfect! if not then adjust accordingly. this will help you get on target out at 900 yards on a clear day ( no wind). Hope that helps
 
I'm sure there are better methods, but here's how I go about it.

1. Level the rifle in a padded vise.(a small bubble placed across the inside of the actions feed rails, or, on the front of the tang tops at the rear receiver ring, if they are milled horizontal.)
2. Level the scope in its rings to the leveled rifle.(a bubble on the turret is usually very close.)
3. Confirm scope mounting level by cranking up lots of vert., and then firing another group with the same POA as the zeroing group, after that hang a plumb line through both groups to confirm that there is no lateral drift in POI with the elevation adjustment.
I do this part from 200 yards, at dawn, when the conditions are dead calm and mirage free.
A scope level on the gun will help to avoid canting, which can quite easily skew your test results.

Oops ... too slow in the typing(took a lunch break), savagelover and nemesis beat me in!.
 
If you have something to set your gun in or on without it moving, go to CT and get yourself a magnetic roof truss dial. Will get your scope set to the exact level degree.
 
I'm sure there are better methods, but here's how I go about it.

1. Level the rifle in a padded vise.(a small bubble placed across the inside of the actions feed rails, or, on the front of the tang tops at the rear receiver ring, if they are milled horizontal.)
2. Level the scope in its rings to the leveled rifle.(a bubble on the turret is usually very close.)
3. Confirm scope mounting level by cranking up lots of vert., and then firing another group with the same POA as the zeroing group, after that hang a plumb line through both groups to confirm that there is no lateral drift in POI with the elevation adjustment.
I do this part from 200 yards, at dawn, when the conditions are dead calm and mirage free.
A scope level on the gun will help to avoid canting, which can quite easily skew your test results.

Oops ... too slow in the typing(took a lunch break), savagelover and nemesis beat me in!.
ok thanks a bunch gentlemen....ill give this ladder test a whirl!!
 
If you can't the rifle naturally and the reticle is square/true to the horizon then there is no issue.

TDC

I hear this parrotted all the time but the geometry of it doesn't jive. The barrel of the rifle and the line of sight of the scope are not parallel but they intersect as the scope will be level and the barrel will be inclined which allows the bullet to impact at the intersection point of the crosshairs. When you adjust your scope (or hold over/under) to compensate for the increased (or decreased) distance a perfectly vertical crosshair will ensure that the bullet intersects the centreline of the reticle. If the reticle is not perfectly vertical then as you adjust the elevation you will be building an error into the horizontal component.

Picture a right triangle with the line of the scope being the opposite side and the line of the barrel being the hypotenuse. If you increase the angle of the hypotenuse and maintaining the opposite side as level (to simulate the line of the barrel being raised to compensate for a longer distance shot) there will be no divergence from the vertical plane (not accounting for spin drift, coriolis or wind) so long as the adjacent side is vertical. If the triangle is rotated around the axis of the opposite side (meaning the adjacent is no longer perfectly vertical) then any increase to the elevation within the scope will cause an increase to the horizontal error. You can still get the bullet's path to intersect the centre of the crosshairs but any increase or decrease to the elevation adjustment will require a corresponding change to the windage adjustment.
 
Depends on a few factors. The shift could be due to the optic and its erector system, or it could be ammo related, could be wind or other meteoroligical factors, or it could just be you. A squared reticle to the boreline is generally optimal but isn't necessary. If you can't the rifle naturally and the reticle is square/true to the horizon then there is no issue.

TDC
Soo...even if the scope is on abit crooked,that you wont be able to tell! As long as the cross hair is perfectly virtical thats all that really matters? im talking tracking 20 MOA
 
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