Dealing with surface pitting on a rifle

woodlotowner

woodlotowner

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What's the best method of restoring a barrel that has extensive, but very minor, surface pitting? I've heard maybe 'brass wool' is good, but would like to hear from someone who has actual experience with this issue. Perhaps the only option is to refinish/reblue the whole thing?

Thanks. Woodlot
 
woodlotowner said:
What's the best method of restoring a barrel that has extensive, but very minor, surface pitting? I've heard maybe 'brass wool' is good, but would like to hear from someone who has actual experience with this issue. Perhaps the only option is to refinish/reblue the whole thing?
Thanks. Woodlot
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There are a couple of methods that I (we) use, starting from the simple - to the extreme; all depending on the depth of rust penetration.

The easiest place to start is extra fine 000 steel wool and a light oil - this removes pitting sitting on top of the bluing, and does work quite well for the minor stuff. Dip a corner of the steel wool into the oil, and rub the surface lightly and evenly. Careful not to rub too hard, or you'll start removing/fading the bluing.

Wipe it down, and see how it looks - repeat as required.

If you need more extreme removal, move to a coarser steel wool, or very fine emery paper (use wet with oil for the best finish). These extremes will, more than likely, require that you re-blue.
 
Some good suggestions about the steel wool/oil method to take off surface rust to see how bad the pitting is. If the metal is pitted, steel wool won't remove it. To remove the pits the surounding metal would have to be removed using sandpaper(wet with water or oil) of approbriate grit.
 
CharlesT said:
You could try bronze wool or even a 3M pad with oil. I heard that it works well.
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A hearty NO, NO, NO ! ! ! ! ! to the use of a 3M pad. They are abrasive in the same way as sandpaper is and WILL remove and scratch the blueing still on the barrel.

The time honored method is fine steel wool from the paint department of the local hardware store and oil. The steel wool will not remove the blueing but it will cut down the rust buildup so it's smooth to the surface of the blued part. Meanwhile the oil lubricates the wool and darkens the rust pits to where they blend in pretty well. When done nicely a wool and oiled "measles" barrel will look and feel almost like new. It takes a specific angle from a bright light and close up inspection to see what is left of the rust spots.
 
Sounds like some clarification is in order. Pitting is just that, rust pits that penetrate the surface of the metal. Nothing is going to remove them except the removal of the surrounding metal down to the depth of the bottom of the pit.

If you have surface rust, that can be removed, if it still superficial. The finish will have been damaged by the rust and will probably be damaged more by the removal unless the surface is case hardened.

If refinishing is not an option then the oil and steel wool method is probably your best bet. If there are stubborn scale or rust deposits, you can work on those with a dental pick or sometimes a small stainless steel brush on a Dremel or flex shaft tool.
 
A brass scraper can remover rust scabs without doing harm. Just a little brass chisel. If brass marks are left, use bore cleaner to remove them. Just hammer a cartridge case mouth flat and sharpen with a file, if you don't have any brass flats.
 
BCRider said:
A hearty NO, NO, NO ! ! ! ! ! to the use of a 3M pad. They are abrasive in the same way as sandpaper is and WILL remove and scratch the blueing still on the barrel.
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This has been going on between woodlotowner and myself for a while now.

3M makes several different pads. There is a white (fine) and yellow (superfine) as well as blue red and black in ascending coarseness from green.

My apologies. Should have hit a :) on my first post.

ct
 
If I had a barrel that showed minor rust damage, I would have it sent out to have a bake on finish applied. Part of that process is to sandblast the metal surfaces with 120 grit aluminum oxide, which should get rid of any minor pitting, and the bake on finishes are pretty much bullet proof as far as rust or scratching is concerned, especially the barrel is parkerized prior to the application of the bake on finish.
 
Boomer said:
If I had a barrel that showed minor rust damage, I would have it sent out to have a bake on finish applied. Part of that process is to sandblast the metal surfaces with 120 grit aluminum oxide, which should get rid of any minor pitting, and the bake on finishes are pretty much bullet proof as far as rust or scratching is concerned, especially the barrel is parkerized prior to the application of the bake on finish.
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What he said....plus larger pits can get filled with epoxy paste before finishing
 
Thanks to all for the information. I think I will try a discrete location somewhere on the bottom of the barrel with fine steel wool and oil. If this does not deal with the issue then I guess I live with it or take Boomers advice and 'send it out'. Not sure where that would be, but an expensive option most likely. Not that I doubted you, CharlesT, just wanted some additional opinions ;)

In any event, it's only a crappy special edition Win 94 anyway, so.....
 
CharlesT said:
This has been going on between woodlotowner and myself for a while now.

3M makes several different pads. There is a white (fine) and yellow (superfine) as well as blue red and black in ascending coarseness from green.

My apologies. Should have hit a :) on my first post.

ct
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I think you see the "issue". What is an inside joke between the two of you isn't known by the others reading the thread for "real" answers later on when it comes up during a search or due to a similar problem. So even with a smiley at the end there's still a big risk of someone else reading about using the Scotchbrite products, not realizing the nature of the smiley and finding out the hard way that they do a great job of removing the blueing.
 
BCRider said:
I think you see the "issue". What is an inside joke between the two of you isn't known by the others reading the thread for "real" answers later on when it comes up during a search or due to a similar problem. So even with a smiley at the end there's still a big risk of someone else reading about using the Scotchbrite products, not realizing the nature of the smiley and finding out the hard way that they do a great job of removing the blueing.
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I stand corrected. I will in future consider those that may read after the fact without the complete story. Again my apologies.

ct
 
stay away from the 3m pad I have a pre 64 that had some pitting on the mag tube I used 000 steel wool with oil (soak the steel wool in oil) it worked awsome I had the mag tube reblued and now you would never know
 
I've used steel wool and oil to get the rust out of an area that also had pitting, so it could be reblued, but of course, this does not bring the pits back up to normal surface level. Once reblued however, it ususally looks fine.

The other option mentioned I've also done - sandblast and completely refinish.
 
blargon said:
Blast with aluminum oxide, spray with arma-fill to cover surface imperfections, then coat over with arma-coat. You can do it at home...

http://www.arma-coat.ca/frame.cfm?WebPageID=13
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If you choose to go this route, get a couple of cans of Break Clean and be sure all the surfaces you are coating are thoroughly degreased, this cannot be overemphasized. Preheat the metal you are coating to 100 degrees before applying the finish, as this will help if dry on contact and reduce the chance of runs, trigger guards in particular can be a challenge. I would be inclined to remove all the springs prior to coating and baking. First you will probably need to in order to have access to all surfaces, but I wouldn't want to take the chance that a spring might be degraded when you cure the finish at 325-350 degrees.
 
Send it to Murdoc for a full parkerizing and Arma-coat. It will look 100% better and be resistant to moisture and general wear 'n tear. And you get to change the colour if you want :) Home jobs are asking for trouble, or maybe I'm just completely useless when it comes to painting and finishing.
 
Yes, I too am a member of the 'don't try this at home' fraternity. Who's Murdoc and how would I contact him/them?

The Kurgan said:
Send it to Murdoc for a full parkerizing and Arma-coat. It will look 100% better and be resistant to moisture and general wear 'n tear. And you get to change the colour if you want :) Home jobs are asking for trouble, or maybe I'm just completely useless when it comes to painting and finishing.
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woodlotowner said:
Yes, I too am a member of the 'don't try this at home' fraternity. Who's Murdoc and how would I contact him/them?
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Everything you need to know is here:
http://http://arma-coat.ca/webpages/Arma-Coat_11.cfm

He did two of my SKS's and they turned out well. The finish is super durable and I never worry about rust.

I am thinking of sending him something else fairly soon. Just be sure to ask him how busy he is, as there could be quite a wait.
 
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