Decent binocs for the new hunter
- Thread starter GunNewb
- Start date
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
7x35 (seven by thirty-five) is not very high powered in my opinion. I learned to use 10x50s in the army and have never regretted the weight.
I like binos with rubber eyepiece guards. I like binos with a wheel adjustment, not a flapper or something that is not a positive feel. I really like rubber coated binos so I won't scratch other things. I ditch the 1/2" wide vinyl strap first off, and put on a more comfortable 2" nylon strap with a buckle. And, I like scope caps that are on some kind of string or keeper. The last thing I want to do is go fishing for caps in the snow.
Over time, I've found the tubes get out of alignment when improperly handled. The current pair isn't bad, but I still have to give them a firm handgrip twist so the tubes are back in sync. The only solution seems to be a better case and more gentle treatment.
When out in the field, the binos are almost the last thing I put on. The strap goes over the outer layer and the binos tucked under the whites or coveralls. The idea is to keep them from flapping and hurting me, and to be right there handy for one-handed up and look see. The rifle never gets slung, but the scope is never used for looking at anything but the deer I want to shoot. Too many guys think they don't need binos, 'because what is that thing on the rifle for?'. It is a sight dumba$$! And don't point your rifle at me when you are trying to figure out what is moving in the brush.
I like binos with rubber eyepiece guards. I like binos with a wheel adjustment, not a flapper or something that is not a positive feel. I really like rubber coated binos so I won't scratch other things. I ditch the 1/2" wide vinyl strap first off, and put on a more comfortable 2" nylon strap with a buckle. And, I like scope caps that are on some kind of string or keeper. The last thing I want to do is go fishing for caps in the snow.
Over time, I've found the tubes get out of alignment when improperly handled. The current pair isn't bad, but I still have to give them a firm handgrip twist so the tubes are back in sync. The only solution seems to be a better case and more gentle treatment.
When out in the field, the binos are almost the last thing I put on. The strap goes over the outer layer and the binos tucked under the whites or coveralls. The idea is to keep them from flapping and hurting me, and to be right there handy for one-handed up and look see. The rifle never gets slung, but the scope is never used for looking at anything but the deer I want to shoot. Too many guys think they don't need binos, 'because what is that thing on the rifle for?'. It is a sight dumba$$! And don't point your rifle at me when you are trying to figure out what is moving in the brush.
most hunters will use 8x42 or 10x42 and its the popular power in binos.
also all depends on how much you are willing to spend. since binos are like scopes. $100 or $3000 depending on what the person want.
I have few Vortex in Talon HD and Viper HD both in 10x42. Was a Leupold bino user but after testing the Vipers out, there was just huge difference in clarity on HD binos from vortex.
$300-400 dollar bushnells work well to but forgot the name of the model.
I have used and tested Nikon, Bushnell, Leupold, Zeiss and few other cheaper ones. (never tested Swaroski)
Went with Vipers because it was bang for its $$ value in my mind and am very pleased with it. You can pick up Talon HD's for around $500 now i think.
But then..... Bushnells will work just fine so all depends on how you want to treat your eyes i guess
Also Agree Big time with Maple leaf... People need binos. Rifle Scope is only ment to point and shoot. not be used as a bino.
also all depends on how much you are willing to spend. since binos are like scopes. $100 or $3000 depending on what the person want.
I have few Vortex in Talon HD and Viper HD both in 10x42. Was a Leupold bino user but after testing the Vipers out, there was just huge difference in clarity on HD binos from vortex.
$300-400 dollar bushnells work well to but forgot the name of the model.
I have used and tested Nikon, Bushnell, Leupold, Zeiss and few other cheaper ones. (never tested Swaroski)
Went with Vipers because it was bang for its $$ value in my mind and am very pleased with it. You can pick up Talon HD's for around $500 now i think.
But then..... Bushnells will work just fine so all depends on how you want to treat your eyes i guess
Also Agree Big time with Maple leaf... People need binos. Rifle Scope is only ment to point and shoot. not be used as a bino.
I have bought a couple optics from CameraLandNY and was very happy with the products at the prices and with their service.
I think Minox is very good value for money. Too many people say that of Vortex, also, for me to discount it, but I haven't tried any of that brand myself.
Higher magnification makes poor quality optics more obvious and can be tiring to use for longer. And even if the quality is good it emphasizes any tremor in your hands, which also tires your eyes. Traditionally 7x was thought to be the highest most people could use handheld without too much image shake, but with lighter materials in modern equipment you might be o.k. with more power.
Magnification also affects brightness. Divide the objective lens size by the magnification power to discover the size of the exit pupil. This tells you how bright the image can be. E.g. a 7x50, 8x56, 9x63 all have a 7mm exit pupil, which corresponds to the largest opening typical in human eyes in darkness, so those would give the best low light performance (as long as you are comparing equal quality of glass and lens coatings.)
And that large exit pupil is for young adults. As we get older our pupils can't open as wide, and a 5mm exit pupil is a typical maximum in your forties, so a good quality 7x35mm bino could seem as bright as a similar quality 7x50mm, and you might as well have the lighter, smaller 7x35 if that's you.
I think Minox is very good value for money. Too many people say that of Vortex, also, for me to discount it, but I haven't tried any of that brand myself.
Higher magnification makes poor quality optics more obvious and can be tiring to use for longer. And even if the quality is good it emphasizes any tremor in your hands, which also tires your eyes. Traditionally 7x was thought to be the highest most people could use handheld without too much image shake, but with lighter materials in modern equipment you might be o.k. with more power.
Magnification also affects brightness. Divide the objective lens size by the magnification power to discover the size of the exit pupil. This tells you how bright the image can be. E.g. a 7x50, 8x56, 9x63 all have a 7mm exit pupil, which corresponds to the largest opening typical in human eyes in darkness, so those would give the best low light performance (as long as you are comparing equal quality of glass and lens coatings.)
And that large exit pupil is for young adults. As we get older our pupils can't open as wide, and a 5mm exit pupil is a typical maximum in your forties, so a good quality 7x35mm bino could seem as bright as a similar quality 7x50mm, and you might as well have the lighter, smaller 7x35 if that's you.
With optics you get what you pay for. You should consider Leica, Zeiss, Swarovski or maybe one or two others. Expect to pay ~$3K, and try to get 8 or 10x. An excellent choice is the Leica Geovid HD 8x42 or 10x42 because it comes with a range finder, which you need anyways. Clarity is among the best and size is not too bad. Although some feel it is too heavy when say goat hunting, it doesn't bother me one bit as they are so wicked to use. Get yourself a pair...you won't regret it.
Fact is many people are seduced by high magnification in binoculars. IMO what you want is the largest (within reason) objectives you can get for a reasonable power (aka magnification). You have to remember also that one company's 5x can look like another company's 7.5x. The larger the objectives and the lower the power, the greater the light gathering and transmission. The larger the eyepieces and exit pupils the better the light transmission. If you want to really examine something up close, use a telescope of 20x or more.
Some of the Japanese and German binoculars from the 50s-70s are great value and very high quality. I bought a pair of 7x50 Featherweight Fujis made for Bushnell for $25. last summer, another pair of 7x35s made by Tamron, also excellent quality for $20 a few weeks back - it gets to be habit forming, just like guns! I have an old Zeiss 8x30 Deltrentis which compared well to the CF 7x50 ELCANs. Coatings are better than ever, but the glass quality and the polishing? I'm not sure they're even as good as they used to be back then, at least not in mid-range binoculars.
Buy what you can afford, but don't think you can't get quality for a very reasonable price in the older binos.
Some of the Japanese and German binoculars from the 50s-70s are great value and very high quality. I bought a pair of 7x50 Featherweight Fujis made for Bushnell for $25. last summer, another pair of 7x35s made by Tamron, also excellent quality for $20 a few weeks back - it gets to be habit forming, just like guns! I have an old Zeiss 8x30 Deltrentis which compared well to the CF 7x50 ELCANs. Coatings are better than ever, but the glass quality and the polishing? I'm not sure they're even as good as they used to be back then, at least not in mid-range binoculars.
Buy what you can afford, but don't think you can't get quality for a very reasonable price in the older binos.
hahahahahah!! awwh hell I actually haven't laughed that hard in a bit. bless you sir.
Unless youre serious heheh
I dropped $500 on my minox scope and feel that I have something great for my uses. Light, not junk but not swaro/nightforce etc...Does the job.
Do I need to drop another $500 here to get into the same level of quality?
These are the best compact binos I've peeped through, and have been very happy with them for several years. Great bang for the buck!
http://www.cameralandny.com/optics/minox.pl?page=62171
maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
IMHO, eyeballs are the most important sensor when hunting. I can't smell deer except when I'm standing over a steaming gut pile. Nor can I hear them for all the other chatter and noise in the woods. (Taste and touch don't count except with a fork in hand.)
The army teaches why things are seen. I just start looking for horizontal lines, colour changes and for movement. So, I wear my regular eyeglasses or sunglasses to see close range and middle distance. For that reason, I want to be able to look into the middle and far distance. If I need to look twice, up come the binos. The deer may be far off, but a plan may come together where I can use the distance to my advantage. Small pocket binos or opera glasses are useless in this situation. I want magnification no less than 7 power. I want a wide field of view, so nothing less than 50mm. In low light, those big front lenses gather more light than my 2 or 3mm pupils.
The army teaches why things are seen. I just start looking for horizontal lines, colour changes and for movement. So, I wear my regular eyeglasses or sunglasses to see close range and middle distance. For that reason, I want to be able to look into the middle and far distance. If I need to look twice, up come the binos. The deer may be far off, but a plan may come together where I can use the distance to my advantage. Small pocket binos or opera glasses are useless in this situation. I want magnification no less than 7 power. I want a wide field of view, so nothing less than 50mm. In low light, those big front lenses gather more light than my 2 or 3mm pupils.
wapitiwhacker
CGN Regular
- Location
- East Kootenay B.C.
Check out some birding websites like "Better View Desired". The birders are nutz about their optics and you will get a good idea what you need to spend for decent glass. Porro prism binoculars, while not as cool looking or ergonomic as roof prism will give you an equal quality image for less money. If you want to go roof prism I would suggest you need to spend at least $300-$500 to find a binocular that will give you a nice bright image and not let you down. If you don't have the dollars to spend on premium Euro glass I would personally take a good hard look at stuff like Nikon, Pentax, Kowa, Vortex and Minox. If at all possible test out the glass you are looking to purchase outside in low light, as this is when the better optics really become apparent. Most all binos look bright and clear in the store under bright light.
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These are the best compact binos I've peeped through, and have been very happy with them for several years. Great bang for the buck!
http://www.cameralandny.com/optics/minox.pl?page=62171
now were talking. Im pretty happy with my minox scope for the $$$. Ill check these out.
hoiw abouit the bushness legend ultra hd 8x36?
I found a pair for a decent price used but I think Id rather go with the 8x42 in that binoc. 2 oz= larger objective which has to be worth it as far as performance/weight goes
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wapitiwhacker
CGN Regular
- Location
- East Kootenay B.C.
Smart choice, for that 2 oz. you will get better eye relief, wider field of view, and a brighter image.
