Deep Scratches in Stock - Repair

Zee705

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I'm restoring an Old Cooey 39 but the stock has some deep scratches in it. Any idea about how to go about repairing them?

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As deep as they are only a complete strip and heavy sanding and refinishing will make it look good again... It's much easier to ignore them.
 
You could try applying some steam to swell some of the wood back up to reduce the size of the scratches. This can be done by using an iron (for ironing clothes) placed over a humid towel. The scratches may not disappear completely, but I expect that their appearance will improve significantly. After that, you can decide whether additional sanding is required or not...
 
If you're going to strip and sand, may as well try a heavy WET cotton rag and a hot clothes iron. It will lift the damaged wood some - worth a try. I have been pleasantly surprised at how some dings and dents almost disappear.

ETA: I see I got beat!
 
It's also a Cooey. Like Guntech says leave it be or just sand the scratches out then use some closely matching stain it's almost impossible to match the stain color they literally used what ever stain or wood that was available to do a batch I have never seen two closely matching colored Cooeys and a light tru oil. It's the roughness that give Cooeys their charm.
 
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So long as the grain hasn't been broken, and it doesn't appear to be broken, pressing with a wet (not just damp) cotton cloth could very well remove most of the dents. I have seen dents raised to slightly higher than the surrounding wood using that technique. Raise dents and then sand if needed.
 
Even though it is "only" a Cooey, use a light hand on the sandpaper - there are angular shapes, and metal fittings that mate with the stock wood. Aggressive sanding wipes out or rounds over much detail, and many times causes the metal to sit proud of the wood - butt plates, for example, or the top line of the fore arm where it meets the action and barrel. Let the stripper / varnish remover do most of the work - do it twice, if you want - try to avoid sanding if you can - sanding can only take off wood, can't put it back on.
 
Even though it is "only" a Cooey, use a light hand on the sandpaper - there are angular shapes, and metal fittings that mate with the stock wood. Aggressive sanding wipes out or rounds over much detail, and many times causes the metal to sit proud of the wood - butt plates, for example, or the top line of the fore arm where it meets the action and barrel. Let the stripper / varnish remover do most of the work - do it twice, if you want - try to avoid sanding if you can - sanding can only take off wood, can't put it back on.

Agreed. I probably won't even touch inside of the stock where the receiver sits since you don't see it anyways. I had a fitment issue with a 10/22 stock that I completely stripped and sanded which I'd like to avoid.
 
Agreed. I probably won't even touch inside of the stock where the receiver sits since you don't see it anyways. I had a fitment issue with a 10/22 stock that I completely stripped and sanded which I'd like to avoid.

If you are worried about rounding edges over - use a cabinet scraper. (I would use one anyway, it will go way faster and leave a much better finish)
 
The cabinet scrapers are very hard, quite sharp metal scrapers - they slice wood fibres, not fuzz it up like sandpaper. Can take minute, almost translucent, thickness of scrapings. Wood worker buddy says that was the preferred old school way of finishing off fine furniture - leaves nicely sliced wood - exposed pores - no fuzz...
 
If you do sand, use a hard block to avoid rounding edges that should remain sharp. I have a whole collection of small offcuts that I use as blocks.
 
Strip the old finish, then do the wet towel/iron trick to try to raise the wood. Let it get good and dry before any sanding, then only very light sanding with fine paper, like start at 180 or 220. The steam will raise the grain so it will need some sanding after, but probably not much. As deep as the scratches look, you'd have to remove a lot of the surrounding wood to sand them out, and depending where on the stock they are, it probably won't look better than just leaving them.
Kristian
 
the steam thing like the rest said, but those scratches look deep. or, since you'll be sanding it down i presume, fill it with a clear curing epoxy or urethane and then just sand it flush, would just have a little character
 
clean out scratches with small soft wire brush ...remove but plate and with belt sander remove some nice clean fine saw dust ,,,,mix dust with clear ,,2 part epoxy ,,,push paste into scratches follow directions on epoxy ,,,sand off carefully and finish the stock epoxy will not take stain if you want a col change it must be in the finish good luck
 
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