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- Thread starter gunsdora
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shuraparabellum
CGN Regular
- Location
- #### hole gta
Removing chrome isn't easy. That can be done by grinding but in your case you should find a work shop that does chroming , removing chrome is a reverse process. But why would you want chrome gone anyway?
The electrochemical method is best. When something is plated its using a an anode/cathode setup using a solution and electricity. If its nickel on copper coating, which it probably is, then the bolt would be gathering nickel as the current flows towards it (negative side). So i think making the bolt the positive side, the nickel should "unhitch" itself from the bolt and become part of the solution without affecting the bolt. Found this. Looks fun https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=INiyYbFUihA
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Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Why are you trying to do this? If the chrome is not hampering function, you should not bother removing it, and it it was, you should get a new bolt! Applied coatings are generally not meant to be removed.
Are we talking Chrome stripping or Nickle stripping of steel parts?Same reverse polarity procedure,two different tank solutions.Regular Chrome plating{Ornamental}on steel is triple plate,copper,nickle,chrome.Think of Chrome like the seal clear coat on paint,easy enough to chemically strip.Nickle on the other hand is a VERY hard material,try drilling through some you'll see.Its been some years since I worked in a custom chrome shop,but if I remember correctly,the only plated metal parts we Nickle stripped were Pot metal,it didn't get ate up from the corrosive acid.If the Nickle plating is thinner on one area of the steel piece,it will corrode that area while the thicker plated area is still stripping.
I have no experience with Parkerizing,but if you Chrome strip only,then scuff or etch the Nickle it may give it enough"tooth" or roughness for the Parkerizing to grip.
Hard Chrome is much different,thickness can be controlled and can be machined to tolerance,which is one reason it's used on Hydraulic rams,ball valves,etc.
If you find a shop that will Nickle strip,i'd be asking to see some steel pieces they have chemically stripped before trusting my gun parts with them.YMMV
For just stripping Chrome off,you might try some Easy Off spray on oven cleaner, with out battery,same acid used in the tank solutions,keep a close eye on it, shouldn't take more than a few minutes,well ventilated area, eye protection,rubber gloves,rinse well with cold water after.The Nickle will go from shiny to dull looking when chrome is stripped off.
I have no experience with Parkerizing,but if you Chrome strip only,then scuff or etch the Nickle it may give it enough"tooth" or roughness for the Parkerizing to grip.
Hard Chrome is much different,thickness can be controlled and can be machined to tolerance,which is one reason it's used on Hydraulic rams,ball valves,etc.
If you find a shop that will Nickle strip,i'd be asking to see some steel pieces they have chemically stripped before trusting my gun parts with them.YMMV
For just stripping Chrome off,you might try some Easy Off spray on oven cleaner, with out battery,same acid used in the tank solutions,keep a close eye on it, shouldn't take more than a few minutes,well ventilated area, eye protection,rubber gloves,rinse well with cold water after.The Nickle will go from shiny to dull looking when chrome is stripped off.
Its hard to tell by the pics,but my guess would be its nickel plate only,no chrome,uSorry my suggestion didn't work out.On the other hand,if you don't have a self cleaning oven,your all set.
Some one that does Parkerizing may know whether the nickel has to be stripped,i'd go that route next or a quick phone call to a plating shop or two about stripping.
Good luck with the project
Some one that does Parkerizing may know whether the nickel has to be stripped,i'd go that route next or a quick phone call to a plating shop or two about stripping.
Good luck with the project
