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Jahnj0584

Jahnj0584

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Halifax NS
I have a Leupold American Marksmen on my hunting rifle (308 ruger predator). I used it this season for the first time and got my bear and a deer.

I just grabbed a Vx2 with the "creedmore" reticle off the EE ( this is the same BDC as the Marksmen) and have a new muzzleloader that needs glass.

I prefer the feel of the VX since the turrets actually click!

How can I properly compare these two side by side (ideally without driving an hour to the range in this cold) to decide which one should go on which rifle?

Ideally I zero the muzzle to a 50 or 100y zero and only worry about one drop dot for 100/200y (highly unlikely shot around here!) and put the "better" scope in my Ruger as I do shoot 200+ yard targets with it every few months when I can in this blasted anti gun province.
 
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Jahnj0584 said:
I can, but how is that objective at 2 in the afternoon, full daylight, at the house across the street or a cloud?
Click to expand...

...What? Just like, look through both of them at different times of day? Hold them side by side, and compare them? What could anyone tell you that would help? What am I missing here? lol

Weird thread.
 
simplest method is simple.

find an online eyechart and print it out in highest resolution quality. Post it up at 200m/y, see which one provides the best clarity of the lines. How far down the eyechart can each one observe clearly. I found 100 was too close and i could read all the lines clearly.
 
Posts above seem to presume that what you see through a scope counts for most. Not sure of that - is not a telescope or binoculars - it is meant to be a sight - so do the guts hold against recoil? Are the adjustments holding? Repeatable? OP seems to suggest that "clicks" are better than friction dials - might be, for some purposes.
 
It sort of depends on what sort of features you’re after. Whenever I’ve done this I would look through them at dusk or slightly after and try to read distant license plates and that sort of thing. I was after low light performance for hunting though.
 
Unfortunately just looking through a scope doesnt give you a full idea of its performance - it wont tell you much about how well the scope tracks when the W&E are changed or the reticle shifts when the power is changed or if the reticle shifts under recoil … or even how well it returns to a setting after these adjustments are reversed. It may also not tell you if the eye relief is optimal for you when it is mounted on a particular rifle. Having an optically sharp image from the scope is not much use if the crosshairs are not able to indicate where your shot will land.

There is a great deal of interest in the ‘optical’ quality (ie the ‘image’) provided by rifle scopes but thats only part of the story … the other part (and practically more important) is the mechanical quality of a scope. In addition to great repeatable precision required of the mechanism of a rifle scope … the mechanism must be very robust to accommodate recoil and other field activities it is exposed to while hunting. This is among the reasons that European hunters apparently claim that you should spend as much on your scope and mounts as you do your rifle …. IDK

Incidentally its also a good reason to stick with fixed power scopes where practical as the variable mechanism adds another challenge to manufacturers in achieving the necessary mechanical precision and robustness.
 
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