Detachable, reset-to-zero, Sako rings

stickhunter

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Hi all,

I have a Sako AV action rifle with iron sights, which I really like; however, my failing eyesight and desire to be able to reach out a bit more necessitates adding a scope. This is my only Sako rifle at the moment, but I've somehow acquired quite a few different rings: Leupold ringmounts, Sako ringmounts, Sako optilocks, and Conetrols.

I'd like to be able to remove the scope so I can return to the iron sights, but be able to reattach the scope and have it hold zero.

First, is it realistic to think this is possible or will I always need to sight in again?

Second, is there any particular ring that is better than the others for being able to do this?

I'm fond the clean lines of the Conetrols, but removing the rings from the base causes them to loosen, so removal would mean tapping the bases off of the dovetails, and I'm concerned what that might do the scope.
 
SAKO q/d rings

I have LEUPOLD quick detach rings and bases on SAKOS that return to zero (almost) close enough for hunting and the bases are low enough to use open sites with them on
 
If you have the 'Limited' or 'Custom' Conetrol rings...there is a way to remove and return them without losing zero. It involves zeroing your rifle...then when you wish to remove the scope...only loosen the base screws on one side until you can remove the scope/rings...then when you replace the scope you simply have to tighten the previously loosened pair of base screws...and 'voila'...scope is back to the previous zero..(well thats what Conetrol claims...and I havent tested this to see) alternatively any sako ring/base (including Optilocks..although heavy) will return to zero when replaced - as long as you return them to the same point ie where the recoil pin abuts the receiver..
 
The original Sako ring mounts were the best of the bunch in this regard with the second generation being a close second. The tapered dovetails were and are a poor system. A straight dovetail (like Tikka) is a far better system although it could have been designed with a positive recoil stop and been better yet.
 
Hi all,

I have a Sako AV action rifle with iron sights, which I really like; however, my failing eyesight and desire to be able to reach out a bit more necessitates adding a scope.



You don't mention cartridge nor scope... but your eyes are not going to get any better, only worse... and in the long run a quality scope will perform better for you than iron sights... I would suggest using the scope more and more...
 
The original Sako ring mounts were the best of the bunch in this regard with the second generation being a close second. The tapered dovetails were and are a poor system. A straight dovetail (like Tikka) is a far better system although it could have been designed with a positive recoil stop and been better yet.

Yes -- there is good news .. and bad news with the tapered dovetail bases: the good news is that the design is such that the taper allows the ring mounts to tighten under recoil. But the bad news is it only takes a very small amount of rearward movement to completely loosen the ringmounts from the bases.

There is an interesting phenomena under certain circumstances where the recoil pin on the rear ring mount can strike the dovetail notch - when the rifle is in recoil - in a manner that causes it to rebound smartly thus loosening its grip on the dovetails
 
Stay away from after market ringmounts like the Leupold and pay attention to proper directions for mounting, you'll have no problems. I've used original Sako ring mounts on a half dozen different Sako rifles with no problems whatsoever, and they always have returned to zero when replaced. The key is to mount the rear ringmount with full forward contact of the recoil stop pin in its recess, and adjust the windage screw to centre the mount on the receiver. Tighten the main take down screw securely, repeat centering procedure on the front ring mount, tighten it down, then turn reticle to level, snug up the tube saddles, and you're done. Mounted with care and attention, and using Sako mounts, none of the problems people keep repeating about the tapered dovetails happen. Optilocks are good too, but I have not used them on and off as you wish to, so can't speak to repeatability, only that they are reliable and rugged.
 
Stay away from after market ringmounts like the Leupold and pay attention to proper directions for mounting, you'll have no problems. I've used original Sako ring mounts on a half dozen different Sako rifles with no problems whatsoever, and they always have returned to zero when replaced. The key is to mount the rear ringmount with full forward contact of the recoil stop pin in its recess, and adjust the windage screw to centre the mount on the receiver. Tighten the main take down screw securely, repeat centering procedure on the front ring mount, tighten it down, then turn reticle to level, snug up the tube saddles, and you're done. Mounted with care and attention, and using Sako mounts, none of the problems people keep repeating about the tapered dovetails happen. Optilocks are good too, but I have not used them on and off as you wish to, so can't speak to repeatability, only that they are reliable and rugged.

Yes
 
I have used the following system on many Sako AV rifles in calibres up to .458 with quick detachable rings without difficulty. Use Weaver bases, #67 for the rear and #65 for the front. They fit on the tapered dovetails - I tap them on firmly with a drift punch before fitting the rings. Good quality quick detachable rings are available from Leupold and Warne and fit nicely on the weaver bases. When first placing the rings onto the bases be sure you push the cross pin of each ring up against the front slot in the base before locking them down. When you replace the scope after using your iron be sure again to push the scope forward so the cross pins of the rings contact the front of the base slot before clamping the ring levers tight. It sounds complicated but it's not. This system is not expensive, easy to use and has never failed to hold zero.

Having said that I always check my zero, after replacing the scope, with one or two shots before I go hunting. Good luck.

Regards;

Aubrey
 
I have used the weaver and the Redfield tapered bases that are 'tapped' on. I prefer the Redfield only because they have a pretty sturdy little screw on the base top that can be adjusted to 'jamb' against the knurling on the tops of the sako dovetails securing the bases. In the absence of this screw...while recoil will tighten the bases on the dovetails....bringing the rifle butt down smartly (particularly when a heavy scope is mounted) will cause the scope and bases to loosen and come off. Once again...the down side to a tapered base is that the base only has to move to rear a mm and it will lose its grip on the dovetails... for those that like the original sako bases...there is a good reason as when they are tightened they will actually get a small 'bow' that develops which can be seen from the rear. This applies sufficient tension to maintain a good hold even if the base/scope combo do slip a tiny bit to the rear.
 
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