Detail Stripping SVT-40 and AG-42B

mikerock

mikerock

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I have an SVT-40 and an AG-42B, both of them I can field strip to a certain extent, but I want to learn how to strip them all the way.

The SVT I can take down including the gas piston and trigger assemblies, but I want to know how to strip to the wood and diassemble the bolt. Surplus rifles shows how to go down to teh wood, but not how to disassemble the bolt.

The Ljungmann I only know how to do a basic field-strip; remove the bolt carrier, bolt, handguard, and the gas tube. I can see some minor corrosion in the trigger assembly, and I want to see what everything else looks like down there. I also want to know how to disassemble the bolt. One problem is that every screw on the rifle has been peened, and thus locked.

As well, my SVT has the nasty habit of jolting the gas valve to the shut off position while firing. This happens every 5-10 rounds and results in the bolt being locked forward, requiring me to hammer the bolt handle with something to eject the spent round. I have been recommended lock-tite to keep the valve in place but I am wary of putting something permanent on there.

Thanks!
 
I was wondering about the same thing. I think there was a mosin nagant forum that I found the text of the bolt disassembly for the SVT-40, it didn't sound like fun. I forgot to bookmark it but google "svt-40 bolt disassembly" and it may pop up.

Do you find the front of the stock fits kind of loose on your svt? I find that I can move my barrel in the stock so it either touches the top or bottom, seems quite loose to me, even with everything tightened up. I'm not sure if it's just my rifle or if others do it as well, as I've only ever handled mine.

Good luck :)
 
TheIndifferent1 said:
Do you find the front of the stock fits kind of loose on your svt? I find that I can move my barrel in the stock so it either touches the top or bottom, seems quite loose to me, even with everything tightened up. I'm not sure if it's just my rifle or if others do it as well, as I've only ever handled mine.
Click to expand...
You can make shims from the metal of a pop can to tighten things up.
 
MarkCNP said:
You can make shims from the metal of a pop can to tighten things up.
Click to expand...


I was fooling around with it the other day and realize the spring that holds the front handguard band/sling loop on is loose, and that's why the barrel moves in the stock. I was thinking of using some broken toothpicks and pushing them under the spring to create more tension. Any reason to use pop can pieces instead of toothpicks?
 
TheIndifferent1 said:
I was fooling around with it the other day and realize the spring that holds the front handguard band/sling loop on is loose, and that's why the barrel moves in the stock. I was thinking of using some broken toothpicks and pushing them under the spring to create more tension. Any reason to use pop can pieces instead of toothpicks?
Click to expand...
The concern for accuracy (and perhaps safety), is when the receiver moves in the stock. If there is movement at the receiver, then shimming with metal pieces is a good idea. Toothpicks are soft and will compact, while the metal will keep it's strength. Movement at the barrel band wouldn't be so serious. If you need, I can take pictures of the shims I made for mine.
 
MarkCNP said:
The concern for accuracy (and perhaps safety), is when the receiver moves in the stock. If there is movement at the receiver, then shimming with metal pieces is a good idea. Toothpicks are soft and will compact, while the metal will keep it's strength. Movement at the barrel band wouldn't be so serious. If you need, I can take pictures of the shims I made for mine.
Click to expand...


If you don't mind, I'd like to see them :)

If I wedge something under the barrel band spring, it stops moving. I'm not sure if that's because it exerts a downwards pressure on the barrel and then prevents the barrel/receiver from rocking on the stock or what :confused: I am not fond of the way they have the stock attached.
 
Here's two pictures of the shims. In the first picture, the shim was placed in the stock, but it has now formed itself to the receiver and stuck there. In the second picture, the other three layers of shims are shown inside the back end of the stock. I used four layers of metal, but your mileage may vary.

473447.jpg


473450.jpg
 
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