Determining loads from factory military powder?

Red Dawg

Red Dawg

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Hi guys,

I'm thinking of buying the "reloader's special" at marstar.ca - http://www.marstar.ca/ammo/792x63mm.htm

I plan on using the bullets in my lee-enfield (.303 British) as the bullets come to about .312. My problem is that since powders (such as IMR) have reloading data, how would I determine how much of this powder to use in a .303 cartridge without blowing myself up? I've never used milsurp powder in my rifles before, but am considering it since it is 7.5lbs of powder per 1000 and would be a waste to just throw out simply for the bullets. Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 
These cartridges are 8mm (.323"). The bullets would be ABSOLUTELY UNSAFE in a .303, which uses bullets about .311". Most of this ammunition is headstamped from the '40s. You would have 7 1/2 lbs of 55+ year old powder. No doubt a load for .303 could be worked up. The bullets are suitable for 8mm Mauser (7.92x57), and presumably a load could be developed.
 
Well 7.92 = 0.323" (8MM) so you mind build up some pressure shooting them in your 0.312" enfield(won't work). Andy on the forum has some data for other calibers with this powder, believe it was made by Bofor's.

Andy
 
I see

I was thinking the bullet size would be too good to be true :) Good thing you guys clarified the 7.92mm being .323 - Wouldn't know what to do with the bullets :-D I guess that solves the powder problem too :-D

I might as well ask - what diameter bullet does 30-06 take?
 
Red Dawg said:
I was thinking the bullet size would be too good to be true :) Good thing you guys clarified the 7.92mm being .323 - Wouldn't know what to do with the bullets :-D I guess that solves the powder problem too :-D

I might as well ask - what diameter bullet does 30-06 take?
Click to expand...
.308- along with the 308 winchester, the 300 win mag and a host of others
 
Provided the loads were worked-up with that bullet and if the neck and throat were sufficently large to allow the cartridge to chamber and for the bullet to get a bit of a run at the rifling it'd be fine.
I've used .310 bullets in .308 and .30-'06, and in a Ruger 7.62x39 that had a .308 bore.
 
ok

Brnolvr, thanks for letting me know, but .308 and .310 isn't much of a difference, but I wanted to ask anyways because I don't know... can't know too much.

So it is possible to use .310 in a .308 or 3006 barrel... any way to make sure it'd be safe and doable? I'm not sure how to go about it.
 
Red dawg, as Spatter mentions it is doable, however he is a experienced reloader, judging by your questions you are a newbie.
If you are new to reloading, use what diameter bullet reccomended for a given cartridge and you will have far less problems.

be safe.....
 
Beware!

I don't think it is good practice to do that.
First, there's no money to save there.
The powder you'll salvage is unidentified and old. You do not know to what treatment these loaded rounds were subjected. Were they stored under a tarp for months, left in the cold or heat? were they vibrated on bad roads for hundreds of kilometers? you'll never know.
Another thing is: do you have precise and accurate pressure data for that powder? you'll have to extrapolate and take risks.
Now, those 218gr. bullets are .323" and cupro-nickel jacketed which makes for a very hard bullet with a long bearing surface. Trying them in a .311" barrel would get you high pressures and do no good to your barrel.:eek:
30-06, being .308", is a whole lot tighter.:eek: :eek:
If you want to buy powder at a good price, just consult Higginson Powders price list; there are some good surplus powder lots that you can buy at about the same price of that salvaged, no-data powder.
Don't risk rifle, life and limb for such a "bargain"... i'd much prefer reading you here than hearing about you in the news.
PP.;)
 
Hi Red Dawg,

You are getting some valuable info here. At the very least, if you do buy the ammo for disassembly, maybe put it on the shelf for a bit until you gain some experience. Use standard powders and bullets(.308) for the time being, save the oversize bullets and unknown powder experiments for another day.
 
Red Dawg, Brnolvr and Joe-NWT are offering good advice. For now, stick to _canister grade_ (not surplus, even from Higginson's) powder, the standard size bullets and data that has been cross referenced from at least 2 manuals, contemporary with the powder you are using.

In the years to come there's plenty of time to bulge barrels and set-back bolt lugs, if that's what you really want to do. ;) :)


Read about the experiments of P.O. Ackley and Jullian Hatcher to whet your appetite when you're ready for the more advanced stuff.
 
Start with this http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=99011&highlight=reloader%27s

I can't speak to how the ammo was stored over the past 60 years (no-one can), but can attest to the several pounds of powder I have salvaged and several hundred rounds I've fired. Other than about 3-4% cracked necks, it's all been good. Primers all fired, powder has worked well. What I have used appears to have been stored under great conditions. Other guys have had similar experiences.

The burn rate is a bit slower than Varget in my estimation. The loaded ammo is about 54.0 grs of military flake behind a 218gr 0.323" boattail bullet. It goes out at about 2500 fps. Not a particularly hot load when you consider that case capacity is quite a bit greater than the 8mm Mauser.

My website speaks to all of this. See below.
 
i purchased a bout 3000 rounds of the reloaders special and saved all the powder and bullets, sold the brass for scrap. i worked up a nice load for my mg34 using the saved items. the powder is still very good. the only thing i would use this reloaders special ammo on is the 8mm(.323) IF YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING IN RELOADING THIS CAN BE SAFE TO DO.
 
Good point about the added value of the scrap. With scrap brass going for upwards of $1.00/lb, you've got perhaps $25 worth of brass from 1000 rounds.

Deactivate the primers first of course, by soaking the emptied cartridges in water for a couple of days, and then dry them out.
 
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