Deutsche Werka Model 1 Review

Rhieb

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From the research I have done, the DEUTSCHE WERKE Model 1, was a basic, single shot, 22LR rifle manufactured in Erfurt Germany between 1919 and 1939. It has been referred to as a “youth gun”, or “garden gun” and has a rather unique “trap door” breach. I acquired one of these in the late seventies or early eighties (I think). I really have no idea who I got it from. It must have been given to me because I can think of no reason why I would have bought it at the time. It was kind of beaten up and quite rusty on the outside, but the bore looked pretty good. I never fired it and it just stayed in storage until just recently.

Early this year I ran across it while rummaging through some old stuff and the thought crossed my mind that perhaps I should clean it up and see if I could still hit a target with it. I enjoyed rifle range as an Air Cadet many years ago, but didn't have much interest in hunting so I have done very little shooting since. I was able to get the poor old thing cleaned up pretty good and gave it some cold bluing, which turned out reasonably well.

But before I could shoot again I had to get my PAL. That took a while, but I finally got my license and was able to join the local rod and gun club and take the gun out to the range. Almost to my surprise, I was able to hit a target at 20 yards with an acceptable grouping, considering my lack of practice and the fact that this gun is probably 100 years old, perhaps a bit older. But there was a problem. I was getting a lot of misfires.

I'm not a gunsmith, but on closer examination I could see that the firing pin was worn and not making a very good impression on the casing. I could see that the domed tip was not symmetrical and the protrusion was only about 0.025”. I was able to re-shape the tip and file the stop shoulder on the main body of the pin down to increase the protrusion to about 0.035”. I tried it again, but little or no improvement. I examined a bit closer and found that the centre of the contact point of the pin on the casing was about at the outer edge of the rim. That meant that only about half the pin diameter was in actual contact. The impression was only a shallow dimple. Also, the spring looked like it either had been replaced or modified as one of the ends was not finished and had obviously been snipped off. I had doubts if the spring tension was adequate.

Then I noticed something else. The headspace seemed to be about 0.005” too deep, as the rim was recessed into the chamber a bit. Because of the design of the “trap door” breach, there has to be some clearance between the chamber and the breach block, but the combined distance of this and the deeper headspace was about 0.008”.

I reasoned that if I were to flatten the tip of the pin, radius the edge a bit, and increase the protrusion to about 0.043” it should solve my misfire problem. I also put a 0.040” shim behind the spring to give it some more tension. I went to the range today to check it out and shoot some groups to see what I could do. 30 rounds later, not one misfire. The casing impressions were a pretty little half moons, just what I was looking for.

Now, as far as grouping is concerned, it's not great. But having said that, I'm old and out of practice. The gun has non adjustable iron sights, and the weather was not the best. It was blowing 25, gusting 38 KPH on the water. The range is about a mile from shore and in a clearing in heavy woods, but it was still gusty coming from behind and to the left.

I was shooting Norma TAC-22: .22LR, 40 grain LRN, 1083 FPS. The best five shot group I could manage at 25yards was 6.254 MOA. The approximate centre of the group was about 3 1/8” high and 1 1/4” right of the bull.

The best five shot group I could manageat 50 yards was 5.785 MOA. The approximate centre of the group was about 4 1/4” high and 1 1/4” right of the bull.

The 100 yard group was a bit embarrassing. I was shooting at a paper target 13 1/4” high and 10 1/4” wide, which I could barely see. I fired 10 rounds at it, but only 5 found the target, so I used them as a group of 11.47 MOA. The top shot was 6” high and about 1 1/8” to the right. The bottom shot was 5” low and 4 5/8” to the right.

So, in conclusion, I think I'll just try to hone my skills at 25 yards. 50 yards is pretty hard for me to see and 100 is really out of the question. It is a fun little gun to shoot, now that I seem to have the misfires cured, and as a “garden gun” it probably works just fine as designed all these years later.
 

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Nice work. Thanks for the write-up. I'm sure it will benefit others.

Just sold mine a couple weeks ago as Ihave too many 22lr. It was the fancy model with a dovetail rear sight rather than the one that's a bent tab on the action cover. The spring was a little much and difficult for kids to operate so I can see why someone might have weakened yours.
 
Thank you for the review. I bought one 10-15 years ago as the odity that it was. I was very happy with its accuracy at close range and never tried it out to 50. haven't shot it in years but I'll probably keep on holding on to it as I married a German girl and there is something cool about having a gun from your home country.
 
I still have my father's. He has long since passed away. He was born in 1930 and had it for a long time before I was born. I have fond memories of it being the first firearm I ever shot as a kid. For me, it's a keeper. Extremely light and handy for carrying in the bush. He used to have a thin leather strap around it, and it made carry so easy.
 
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I think nearly every farm in central Alberta had one or two when I was a kid (one for the house and one for the barn) My dad did not, he was a Winchester 67 guy. As I got older I had a few of them because they were common and cheap used. and would shoot shorts I never cared much for the sights, but they were deadly at common gopher range 5 to 10 yards ,Rhieb thanks for the memory .
 
I think nearly every farm in central Alberta had one or two when I was a kid (one for the house and one for the barn) My dad did not, he was a Winchester 67 guy. As I got older I had a few of them because they were common and cheap used. and would shoot shorts I never cared much for the sights, but they were deadly at common gopher range 5 to 10 yards ,Rhieb thanks for the memory .
Thanks for the comments everyone. I'm looking forward to getting to know the gun better and see if I can improve on my marksmanship.
 
Update:
I took the gun to the range yesterday to get to know it better and see if I could find out where the factory had it zeroed. I was shooting from a bench but with no rests, so I'm hoping I can tighten up my grouping with more practice. Anyway, here are my results if anyone is interested.


DeutscheWerka Model 1, zeroing report 6/22/26
Norma TAC-22 ammunition
Shooting from bench with no supports
5 shots, discount furthest out for a 4shot group

5 meters: 6.44 MOA, 1/4” high
10 meters: 4.36 MOA, 1” high
15 meters: 2.91 MOA, 1 1/4” high
17 meters: 6.6 MOA, 1 1/2” high
20 meters: 5.04 MOA, 3/4” high
85 meters: 5.22MOA, 2” low
 
Had one of those many years ago. Bought from an old fellow for a dollar. Had to repair the firing pi. Used a bit of car antenna for a pin. Actually shot pretty good.
 
Update:
I took the gun to the range yesterday to get to know it better and see if I could find out where the factory had it zeroed. I was shooting from a bench but with no rests, so I'm hoping I can tighten up my grouping with more practice. Anyway, here are my results if anyone is interested.


DeutscheWerka Model 1, zeroing report 6/22/26
Norma TAC-22 ammunition
Shooting from bench with no supports
5 shots, discount furthest out for a 4shot group

5 meters: 6.44 MOA, 1/4” high
10 meters: 4.36 MOA, 1” high
15 meters: 2.91 MOA, 1 1/4” high
17 meters: 6.6 MOA, 1 1/2” high
20 meters: 5.04 MOA, 3/4” high
85 meters: 5.22MOA, 2” low
Much of the location of the "group" will have to do with the sight picture that you use. Alignment of the barrel at the instant of bullet exit from the muzzle is critical. Was common, back in the day, to get the top of the front sight ball even with the flat tops of the rear sight - a "bit" of light through on each side of the ball - then "sighted in" so that bullets impact at the top of the front sight ball. Some guys wanted to cover the target with the front sight bead, so would "sight in" so that bullets struck dead centre behind the bead. Some guys wanted a "fine sight" - so just bury the front ball in bottom of the rear sight "V" or "U". Others wanted a "full bead" visible at the bottom of the rear sight. With the age of that thing, you have no way to know if someone has played with front or rear sight over the decades - so no reason to believe that the sights in 2026 are where the "factory" set them, back whenever.

The Mauser Werke Mod. 1 that I have has a section of rifling rotted (rusted) away, up the barrel - I have only fired it with CCI Quiet ammo - I was assuming that stuff had lower breech pressure than other types of ammo, but I do not really know that.

A U-tube video showed how critical that the receiver had to sit on a flush, flat stock - any warpage of the wood stock would twist the receiver.

To accurately assess where is point of impact - you need to sit at a proper shooting table and use a sandbag rest. World Class shooters might be able to hold one or two Minutes of Angle on a target when they fire the gun, but most of us can not.
 
For a guy that isn't into firearms your determination and ingenuity to get this old gun working is impressive - most guys would shrug and toss it back into storage!

I've got a picture here somewhere, from about 1950 or so, of my dad and his buddy - both have homemade pistols tucked into their belts. A closer look revealed that they are Deutsche Werk 22s that had the stock and barrels cut down - they look like pirate guns!
 
I didn't want to spend any more time using a mechanical rest to figure out where the gun was shooting because from what I've done so far I think I have a pretty good idea. The important thing for me is to see what kind of a group "we" could get. By "we", I mean me and the gun, with no mechanical rests. The challenge is for me to improve within the limitations of the gun. I tried both the "centre hold" and "6 O'Clock hold" methods, but rejected the 6 O'Clock because I don't always use a target with the same bull diameter. Because the sights are not adjustable, using "Centre hold" and compensating for elevation makes more sense to me. In reality, my eyesight isn't that great and at almost 80 years of age I'm getting a bit shaky, so even 25 yards is difficult for me to hold target. I try longer ranges just for fun and out of curiosity. Oh, and by the way, I haven't had one misfire since I reworked the firing pin.

I do have another gun which my son has at the moment, but I will be borrowing it from him for as long as I will be able to shoot. It has been in the family for over 80 years. My father brought it back from overseas after he was discharged from 12th Field Regiment Royal Canadian Artillery. I'm pretty sure it is a Mauser MS420 with a period scope and is in excellent condition. I know it is deadly accurate and I will be shooting at the range using a sling. I'm hoping I will be able to shoot it to 100 yards, or perhaps farther. We shall see.
 
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