Developing Pistol Loads

RocketBoy

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With the amount of powder in pistols being so much smaller that rifles. What sort of powder increment should I use when developing loads? .1 grains?
I'm waiting for my powder thrower (with progressive press) to show up so I don't know how accurate it will throw charges. I was going to use my digital scale and single stage press to do the load dev. while waiting for the progressive to get here.

Thanks,
RocketBoy
 
What reloader are you getting?
I use a Lee Pro 1000 with the autodisks. I have weighed the powder charges and am confident in the accuracy.
Start with the smallest load, and work up from there in small increments. Track the results and you'll find the right recipe.
Use a good light and always check that powder level.
Good luck.
 
.1 is what I've been using, and as most scales are +- .1 grain, I throw about 4-6 loads into a case (progressive) and then measure and average it out. Make sure you're paying real close attention doing this.. and never put a bullet in and actually load them.. (eg no bullets on the bench, can even used fired case)..
 
In my OPINION, .1 of a grain is a waste of time. There is more variation in shot to shot with the same charge, than with a .1 change.
Another way of putting it, if you are so close to a danger level, that you only want to increase it .1, then you are probably already too heavy.
Like some one pointed out, expect that much variation on the scale. With the beam scales that have been in use for a 100 years, it's next to impossible to measure that close.
Getting full power loads in 357 or 44 magnums I would seldom change less than .5 grain at a time. The 44 magnum was developed with 22 grains of 2400 and a 240 grain bullet. All five 44 magnum revolvers I have had would all accept this load, with no trouble. But it is maximum, so I would work up .5 grain at a time. After finding they would accept maximum, I usually dropped back one, or up to about 4 grains, depending on what kind of shooting I was doing.
 
In my OPINION, .1 of a grain is a waste of time. There is more variation in shot to shot with the same charge, than with a .1 change.
Another way of putting it, if you are so close to a danger level, that you only want to increase it .1, then you are probably already too heavy.
Like some one pointed out, expect that much variation on the scale. With the beam scales that have been in use for a 100 years, it's next to impossible to measure that close.
Getting full power loads in 357 or 44 magnums I would seldom change less than .5 grain at a time. The 44 magnum was developed with 22 grains of 2400 and a 240 grain bullet. All five 44 magnum revolvers I have had would all accept this load, with no trouble. But it is maximum, so I would work up .5 grain at a time. After finding they would accept maximum, I usually dropped back one, or up to about 4 grains, depending on what kind of shooting I was doing.

Agreed, 1/2 grain increases, especially in load development for the more potent top end loads in the larger cartridges using slower burning powders. The only occasion where I would advance or increase in smaller increments would possibly be in light gallery or competitive target loads, especially in some of the smaller cartridges using some of the faster burning propellants. At one time I was shooting a Walther GSP in 32 S&W and as I recall, the increment for change I used was 1/4 of a grain.
 
I use a Lee powder throwing with W231 and I find that it meters very well. I use a digital scale to double check every 10th round or so.
 
It will be 9mm with a Lee Pro 1000.
I'll be loading 124 gr CMJ with Tightgroup or W231
and 147gr CMJ with Tightgroup.
I understand that there is a degree of error/variation with a powder thrower but when your talking about a .4gr difference between min. and max load. where do start? One at min, one +.2 and one at max?

RocketBoy

Agreed, 1/2 grain increases, especially in load development for the more potent top end loads in the larger cartridges using slower burning powders. The only occasion where I would advance or increase in smaller increments would possibly be in light gallery or competitive target loads, especially in some of the smaller cartridges using some of the faster burning propellants. At one time I was shooting a Walther GSP in 32 S&W and as I recall, the increment for change I used was 1/4 of a grain.
 
My advice, be careful not to double charge. It can happen when loading for pistols.

Right you are, especially throwing the small charges of faster burning powders traditionally used in the lighter loads. It happens quite easily. Check & recheck. One of the easiest ways to detect a double charge is to look at all your charged cases as they sit in the loading tray prior to inserting the bullet. Doing so with a light shining at a slight angle so the powder in the cases is just showing, a double load is usually pretty easy to detect.

RocketBoy, as to my earlier comment on the increments to go up by, that is generally speaking. For my rifle reloading, I use an RCBS ChargeMaster Combo but I still use my old Lyman #55 powder for handgun ammo. Going up in smaller increments than what I've mentioned can be done but it is a little more time consuming. If that's what I decide I want, what I do is very slightly make minor adjustments and throw a few charges and weigh them. When I get to the charge weight I want I tighten the adjustment, but still check about every 5th charge for the first little while. If it continues to hold true, then I go to checking every 10th or 15th.

Once the amount of powder in the hopper decreases by a considerable amount, you may notice the weight of the charge thrown to change slightly, and it can also do so when you add more powder to fill the hopper. After topping up the hopper, throw a few charges and then weigh check again.

I'm getting a little carried away so last but not least, one of the biggest reasons for a lack of accurate and consistent charges thrown is a lack of consistency in operating the powder measure. Try and keep the motion and or operations smooth and the same with every throw.
 
It's amazing how those of us who have been doing these things for a period of time, seem to develope the exact same procedures! What Johnn has said above, could have come directly from my hymn book, virtually word for word.
On his method of using the Lyman 55, I don't think I would have changed a word, had it been me describing it!
 
I use a dillon powder thrower and when i was developing loads started at .5 increments then found the best two (say 3.0 and 3.5 then work between those two in .1 increments) when i start i alway measure in tens count ten loads out on the scale will give you a good average. Also take a clean case no primer fill the primer pocket jbweld and use that case to check the weight of powder coming out of the thrower. I have a case for every kind i load even rifle. and get a baffle if they make it for the powder thrower.
 
I guess I am old fart too. I use a Lymann 55 for pistol rounds loaded with flake powder because it seems to handle it much better than some others.

I first load 10 rounds starting at the Start load and then more in 0.5 gr increments. Usually one of these loads groups much better than the others. Then I repeat the test, loading the best load and a batch 0.3 lighter and heavier.

In most calibers, I find the best group towards the mild end of the test.
 
With the amount of powder in pistols being so much smaller that rifles. What sort of powder increment should I use when developing loads? .1 grains?
I'm waiting for my powder thrower (with progressive press) to show up so I don't know how accurate it will throw charges. I was going to use my digital scale and single stage press to do the load dev. while waiting for the progressive to get here.

Thanks,
RocketBoy

If I'm reading you correctly, yep 0.1 gr is a good increment to use, or at least it's served me well. I chrony 5 shot x 2 batches of each increment and record the averages. I can then mass produce the load that gives me the desired velocity.
 
I just finished (about 4 to 6 weeks ago) working up a load for 9mm, I was concerned only with what would cycle the action in my M&P and still be under the 1000fps (maximum allowed at my local indoor ranges). My local indoor ranges (both of them) are wood construction, so they are both licensed for lead bullets/non-jacketed ammo and under 1000fps. It is fairly hard to find factory ammo that comes in at those specs so I felt the need to "roll my own".

I looked it up and started at the "bottom" of the loading charts for 125gr LCN using 3.6gr of titegroup. According to Hodgon's web site this should be 1002fps & 22,900cup.

I am using 125gr LRN bullets, remington primers & 3.2gr of titegroup..... I worked my way down by .1 grs from 3.6 to 3.0 gr of titegroup. I found that the action of my M&P would cycle at 3.0 but I was getting a lot of "smoke" out of the barrel when firing, I found the best results with 3.2gr, action cycles fully, and the "smokiness" was about the same as with the 3.6gr loads. I am currently averaging out at 915fps with this current load.

Accuracy is good with this load, I feel it is better than I am, I get 4 1/2" at 20yrds on a good day and up to 8" when I am not doing my part.

When I recived my M-213's I found this load to work very well in those HG's as well. Although I am less accurate with the 213's than the M&P.

I just graduated to a dillion SDB, I just hope titegroup meters well out of the powder throw, I am alittle reluctant to change powders and then re jigger a new load but I guess that is the price of progress......

Now I just gotta do it all again for .45ACP.........
 
I usually work up in .2 increments. I am pretty much a noob though. I worry enough without jumping up that high developing loads. If max is a 12 grain charge I should start at 10.5\11 whatever and go up in .5 increments? Is that honestly good advice??
 
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