Difference between 5.3mm boxer and Winchester Large Rifle??????

Muskyhunter1

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I picked up a box of Sellier & Bellot 6.5x55 SE ammo to fire out of my M96 6.5x55 Swed. The factory rounds shot well. I sized the empties tonight and went to prime them and I had a real hard time seating the Winchester Large Rifle primers. I check the spent primers and they are .2105 and the new Winchesters are the same. I even checked for a crimp in the primer pocket by beveling it with limited success. They are still very tight fitting in.

Has anyone else had this problem?
 
S&B brass tends to have very tight primer pockets. No matter what brand of LRP you use they will more than likely be tight.
If you want to make it easier you could get an RCBS primer pocket swager; least expensive option for swaging primer pockets. Personally I just use a little more force when dealing with S&B brass and it does get easier the more you fire them.
I believe some have said Federal primers are easier to seat which I would chalk up to them having really thin primer cups.
 
Okay, that definitely sounds tighter than normal. I'd either swage the pockets or put them aside or even put em in the scrap bucket. That seems way too tight.
 
:( Thanks guys that sucks, I only bought the ammo for the brass. Oh well, guess I will have to get some better stuff. I also read that CCI 200 fits better................ Of course all I currently have right now is Win primers. When I do get some CCI I will let you know how they work.
 
:( Thanks guys that sucks, I only bought the ammo for the brass. Oh well, guess I will have to get some better stuff. I also read that CCI 200 fits better................ Of course all I currently have right now is Win primers. When I do get some CCI I will let you know how they work.

I also have some S&B 6.5 x 55 cases . . . for me, CCI 200 primers did not fit any better than any others. What I found is that the primer pockets on those cases are not as deep as other brands of brass. The last time I reloaded those cases I used Win WLR primers and a Lee Auto Prime II in an RCBS Rock Chucker press. That setup allowed me to seat the primers flush with little effort.
 
Like I said, if swaging the primer pocket doesn't work try uniforming it. S&B brass is good brass, don't force it, don't chuck it, process it right. Spend $15 or so on a pocket uniformer (you should have one anyway) and the swager from RCBS is also a necessity if you start doing surplus ammo for .308 or .223 or any S&B brass.
 
The Lyman uniformer is a depth uniformer, it doesn't really touch the pocket walls. If the pocket is too tight mine just binds up and wont turn.
The swage tools are meant to push out the diameter of the pocket if it's too tight or crimped. It would require an incredibly amount of force to swage a pocket deeper; as in tonnes of force in a manufacturing press.

For me, tight pockets get swaged and shallow pockets get uniformed.
Usually I just toss brass with pockets too shallow; had 40x Hornady .30-30 cases like that recently that where easily .015-.020" too shallow.
 
You're wasting a lot of time measuring primers.
"...try uniforming it..." That's what swaging does.
Nope, Swaging removes the military crimp by pushing the crimp area back into the base. This opens up the primer pocket opening, but does not touch the depth. Lots of guys use a knife to remove the crimped metal, no different to use a pocket uniformer.
I have used the uniformer successfully by not applying too much pressure when you start. Best case would be to SWAGE it, and then run the uniformer in for depth.
 
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