In 1894, the Swedish Infantry were using Remington Rolling block type rifles that had been rebarreled to the center fire 8X58R Cartridge. The Cavalry were using the older rolling block Carbines in 12.7X42R rimfire. Thus, it was decided to rearm the Cavalry first with the Carbine version of the new Mauser rifle, designated the Model 94.
Sweden originally ordered 5000 Carbines from Mauser and later increased the order to 12,000. The number 1 m/94 Carbine, (presently in the Pattern Room of the British MOD,) had a straight left wall on the receiver and no thumb cut.
The "Working Model" for the Swedish Carbine was serial number 6. It had a turned down bolt handle and the raised checkered thumbpiece. Although designated m/94, the first Carbines were not test fired until September of 1895. Carl Gustafs Factory started production in 1898 due to delays in getting the proper machinery.
"Crown Jewels" states that all production m/94 Carbines have a thumb notch. A picture of Serial number 5447, (a Mauser made Carbine,) shows this notch on that Carbine receiver.
The Trade-Ex short chambered m/38 barrels should fit the m/94 receiver. However, as I stated before, if you are intending on making a rifle out of this receiver, it had better be a labor of love because the cost of doing so will probably end up being twice the amount that you could buy a good Swedish sporter from Trade-Ex. If you buy a complete rifle then you should be able to use the trigger from your present action on it using only a screw driver, punch and small hammer.
Please do not take this as a "put down" but rather as advice from a 70 year old Geezer who just happens to have about 55 years of working on, making, shooting and collecting of guns. I presently have a 2000 square foot garage with metal lathe, two metal shapers, welders, and a whole lot of tooling to play with in my retirement years. Do you really comprehend what you are in for and what you have to do ?
If you proceed with your plan, you are either going to have to do it yourself or have a Gunsmith do it for you (at the cost of mucho bucks.)|
"Short chambered" means that the chamber of the barrel is not fully reamed. You can not simply screw the barrel onto the receiver and close the bolt on a cartridge --it is not long enough to accept the standard cartridge.
You are going to need a barrel vise, an action wrench and some experience to get the proper torque on the barrel. Then you have to have a chambering reamer and headspace guages to finish reaming the chamber. Then you have to drill and tap the holes for the scope mount and/or open sights. This also can involve silver soldering open sights, and drilling scope mount holes is best done with a jig. The receiver is hardened, and it is extremely easy to get the holes out of line.
The Carbine bolt is bent and the rifle bolt is straight. You have not said which one you have but it might end up that you have to bend or replace the bolt handle. Using the Carbine bolt as is will result in a very high scope mounting, and unless you have a neck like a Giraffe, you are going to need a cheek piece so that you get a good stock fit on your face when using a scope.
You are then going to have to blue the action, barrel, and other parts. Trying to do this with a Cold Blue type of bluing will result in a mottled finish that you really will not be proud of.
Then a stock. Even if you buy a factory one, there is still going to be a lot of careful work in fitting it. You are going to need rasps, files, scrapers and other wood working tools. If you use a "90% finished stock", that means that 90% of the easy work has been done for you.
Again, I am not putting you down, but trying to give you and idea of what such a project will involve. In fact, you are probably going to spend twice what a good used sporting rifle from Trade-Ex will cost, or you could buy two rifles for what you will spend on this one. In reality, the trigger on the action is worth more than the action is. That trigger could easily be transferred to another rifle with a minimum amount of work.
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